ThaddeusW

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Looks nice, but how many dry rotted parts would need to be replaced to make it road worthy?

That truck was supposed to be sold on ebay a while back. I wonder why they cant sell it.

I can't tell from the pictures if the RD has panetary rears or 58's? But they ends do look flat. A steel nose all decked out is the meanest looking truck on the road(next to a superliner)! Tim

The hubs kind of resemble the Renault planetary axles used on Australian Titans. It looks like it has demountable rims but that can be done with trilex wheel adaptors. I am really curious if those are planetary axles, possibly added on or custom orderd.

Here is a pic of the Renault axles:

i have posted pics in my gallery photo

Yea man, looking sweet! Cant wait to see the rest of it together! Nice looking engine by the way.

I think it makes BAD drivers even worse!! Giving them a false sense of security.....since it "wasn't beeping, then I'm clear to go!" Ya, right!

Buddy has it on his new F150(std equipment now) and when he has his car trailer hooked up...it beeps constantly when he backs up. What an annoying POS!!! I think you can disarm it, but he hasn't figured that one out yet.

I think GOAL is a better option.....but for idiot drivers...there's nothing you can do for them anyway.

I agree,

Friend has the same thing on a VW passat and man even with it he still cant park. Like I said make it an option only that can be easily turned off. I wouldent want it but some might.

Barry, great pictures and thanks for finding them. There is something about those big steel nose Macks that are very appealing,Tim

Tim, I couldent agree with you more. Those steel hood Macks look real tough and sharp at the same time. Too bad they dont offer a steel hood anymore.

And are those rear axles on it planetary hub reduction? the hub end looks real fat for a regular 58-65k rear. That or its just the angle.

Are there any tube type tires for 20k front axles? It looks like 14.00R20 would fit the bill but I am unable to find any other then the Michelin XZY for military offroad vheicles. I am really curious.

To me the feature on a small car or light truck is a useless annoyance. Though on a larger strait truck or tractor trailer it makes sence as an option that can be turned off. I havent backed into anything yet when driving the strait trucks. Thats because before I back up I always look at what will be coming up behind me so I know what to look for in the mirrors. Having a friend ground guide you is a help too in real tight places.

yeah where can you find info on the dt466 jake or engine brake..i have never seen one. that was one of the bad things about a dt 466 because it can't have ajake.. if they make one pleaae let me know i know a few who would like them.

Thanks

Deo

Here is the link for information on the International engine brake. It is only available on the new 2004 I6 engines (DT466/570 HT570). Don't know if they can be field installed but I would ask anyway. Its also quiet. When I tried it All you herd was the engine rev up a little.

http://www.jakebrake.com/products/md-bleeder.php

Looking for suggestions on insuring a tandem axle tractor... I'm getting tempted to bid on one of the Postal Service tractors and I need insurance to get it home and such until I put it to work. Is it possible to insure it as an RV tow vehicle? Has anyone found truck insurance at low rates payable by the month?

thanks in advance,

GearheadGrrrl

I have always wonderd, if you wanted to drive a working road worthy truck home could you get temp insurance on it just to get it from point A to point B?

Yes i have seen 24" budd wheels, new york city has them on some of their trucks. they look really strange because of their size and with the cone of a 58,000lb rear sticking out. The rim is also very beefy. I was told by our mack salesman that it is a very expensive option over spoke wheels

I have seen all sorts of weird tire setups, just the other day on a crane truck I saw budd rims for 16.00x25 tires! It had only two tires per axle (planetary hub reduction) and they had the 335mm bolt circle common to the European vehicles. I have also seen 12.00x24 on budd with the same 335mm setup on a Kenworth oil field truck with sisu planetary axles. There is a German company called Georg Fischer that produces the trilex demountable rim system for the European market. The interesting part is they have adaptors that convert budd to demountable rims for 20, 22.5 and 24 rims. Unfortunatly they use a different mount angle so they arent compatibe with our rims). Another thing I noticed is they don’t use 24.5 tires in Europe.

For 2007 ALL engines will have a After Treatment Device or ATD. Fuel is going from 500 parts per million to 15. and Oil is going to less then 1 percent Sulfer content.

The ATD will be required to be cleaned at 100,000 to 150,000 miles (depending on the engine MFG) and can be cleaned 9/10 times before you have to purchase a new one. The filter is about $6200.00. You cannot remove the filter from the chassis, it is built in to register fault codes.

I designed the mechanical diagnostics for the 2007 Series 60 and assisted on the ATD diagnostics.

Cleaned at 100-150k? How much will that cost? Nothing like another emmission regulation thingy to cost more money. 6200 dollar mufflers? Are they nuts? Now we will have to deal with people stealing them off the trucks to make a quck buck.

Thanks for the information guys. It makes sence now. 20 tube share the tame mount as 22.5 tube. and 22 tube share the same mount as 24.5. See it was confusing because I thought 22 tube and 22.5 tubeless shared the same mount. 24 is tube only which I knew already but thought its mount was shared with 24.5. Any one ever see budd rims for 24 tube?

Seen on another diesel site. That funky afterburner on a new Pete. Looked like a super sized muffler with a torpedo burner built in? Something like a $5000 muffler! OUCH.

Those Diesel Particulate Mufflers are going to go on more engines. I think I herd Cummins will use them as well as the new International Maxx Force. Who knows its possible the MP series might use them too but I havent herd anything yet.

Ok with dayton hubs, is the hub for 20 tubless tires the same size for 22 tube type or 22.5 tubeless? Are the hubs for 24.5 tires the same as 24 tubeless?

All that was in the box was a alt a warrenty card and a plastic bag to keep her dry

I called the maker of the alt and they explained how it gets wired up

just an FYI the part number for the Lecce Nevile I bought is 110-444 it is a special promotion item that is selling cheeper. thats what the tech guy said ??

Trent

You gotta use the internet to your advantage. With the part # i pulled up all the info you could possibly need from www.prestolite.com! Here is the link for your alternator: http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/spe...resh=1145919256

The posts are Positive, negative, an AC output and a fourth which is a diode trio output. the trio and AC are connected to the regulator only.

thanks for the part number rick. I bought the alt from my mack dealer on sat installed the pully and all looks good so far. I am also going to use the gen mount bracket and use a pipe spacer to keep the alt from bouncing around. I will also need to get a set of shorter belts as the alt is trying to hang off the engine to far with the genarator belts. simple fixes but lots of running around.

one other Question

I see the positive post that goes to the batt cables

ground post to the frame rails

then there are 2 posts and Im not exactly shure what they do. what would I hook those posts to???

Some alternators have/had a seperate positive and ground for the voltage regulator. Did you get the Delco 22si? If so its a one wire, leave the other two posts alone. If its a leese then goto www.prestolite.com goto support then technical bulletins. I see that some have AC taps, excitor and indicator light terminals so find the diagram for your model.

Here we go again! The gov. is changing the emisions allowed for diesels in 2007. They are going to make the oil companies make an ultra low sulfur fuel which they say will be an increase of about 1 dollar per gallon. If your diesel was built after 12-31-06 you have to run a special oil in your engine which will cost they say about 7 to 9 dollars a quart! The new fuel is going to reduce your fuel economy by 10 to 15 percent. Anyone with older engines will have to put fuel additives in because of the ultra low sulfur fuel. Remember what we went through the last time they switched to low sulfur fuels. They are adding some sort of after burner that automatically around every 500 hours or so injects a quart of fuel in and burns off soot or something at a temp of 1500 degrees! Sounds like a fire hazard to me.

If anyone is going to buy a new truck , heavy duty or otherwise , better do it before the 1st of the year!

Leave it to our government to make us poorer and them and the oil companies richer.

As long as we can still keep our old trucks running we are in good shape. Additives will be a pain as you have to measure in the appropriate ammount each time you fill up. Lets see what happens.

Hey Thad, Boy am I glad I'm an old fart who was grandfathered into a CDL and only had to originally take the computer test. And I'm really an old fart "cause I was grandfathered into the auto-articulated licenses that came out around '77. I started reading your post with all those regulations and my eyes got crossed and my head got dizzy. What I want to know is how all these Mexicans, Turks and other foreigners read, understand and pass all this crap. To tell the truth, most guys my age (53) and older got a job truck driving the same way - BS'd their way in. Can you drive that truck? would ask the boss. Yeah sure, you'd answer and make a fool out of yourself but eventually you got the hang of it or found someone desperate enough to hire you. And those were the days of duplexs, triplexs and quadboxes, talk about grinding gears! Construction equipment operating was the same way, machines were much more difficult to run but you'd BS your way in and get fired and get a little more experience till you found somebody who needed anybody. A lot of places it's still like that. Enough of my stroll down memory lane, I just wanted to say that it is tougher for todays generation to get started than mine but in a lot of ways the roads are safer for it. Bob

Yea, the guy I worked with did the same thing. He had his chauffeur’s license from Florida which was a written test that allowed him to drive trucks. When he moved to NY he was grandfathered in with a simple written test and got his class A. Thankfully the law was changed recently because without a CDL you could not drive a truck over 17999 GVW, and no air brakes.

The company is Mammoet...I am not sure where the are from though...

Nice pics Barry.

Mammoet is a Dutch heavy haul company that operates world wide. The move seems to be done by Marino Crane, possibly subcontracted by Mammoet. Marino has one impressive Mack they use to haul stuff with.

If you excuse the ignorance, the latest photo i put on the gallery is an MC, is your MR similar or what? these use a 300hp 6cyl with the horrible camel back end, bit rough when empty, they only want 30k for that one, but the fruehauf deck is a bit worn.

Nig

Yup same cab

Here is what I pulled from the NYS CDL manual:

You must have a Commercial Driver License (CDL) to operate any of the following CMVs:

• Any single vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) of 26,001 pounds or more.

• A trailer with a GVWR of more than 10,000 pounds if the gross combination weight rating (GCWR)

is 26,001 pounds or more.

• A vehicle designed to transport 15 or more passengers (excluding the driver) or a vehicle defined

as a bus under Article 19-A, Section 509(a) of the NYS Vehicle and Traffic Law (VTL).

• Any size vehicle that is used in the transportation of any material that requires hazardous

materials placards or any quantity of a material listed as a select agent or toxin in 42 CFR 73.

I was wrong about the trailer weight being 15,000 its 10,000. It also appears it doesent say anything about air brakes so I guess if its under 26,001 its safe to drive air brakes without a CDL.

well so far ive heard gas is going up to 4 dollars a gallon,NICE! i cant even drive yet but even when i can i wont be able to afford to. but if i dont buy like a stupid $50,000 car every other year like my mom i should be able to afford it so yeah. and i was wondering, what letter cdl do you need to drive a class 6 truck?(70,000 ibs.) like a a,b,c? my dad was a trucker so i wanted to ask him but i have not seen him for about 3 years and he is always at a bar so ill just ask here.

Ok in New York the CDL requirement was changed recently. 18000-25999 pounds is class 6 which does not require a CDL, even if it has air brakes (at least thats what I was told by penske rentals). A strait truck with a GVW of 70,000 pounds is a class 8 vheicle(greater then 33000), which will require a class B CDL here in NY. If your going to tow a trailer that weighs more then 15000 your going to need a class A as now its conciderd a truck trailer combination (this might have changed though ill have to check up).

CDL licences work like this:

before they changed the law anything under 18000 did not need a cdl (normal Class D)

Class C up to 26000 with or without air brakes. trailer up to 15000.

Class B strait truck with air brakes, or tractor only. dont know about max weight, 80k maybe. trailer up to 15000.

Class A truck with either a trailer, full trailer or semi trailer. weight isnt limited I think.

If you took the class A test with a regular trailer (for example: a dump truck with a 20 ton tag), you get a restriction that says you cannot drive a semi trailer. A full trailer is like a wagon, the drawbar has no weight on it. Or a better example would be a dump truck towing a converter dolly with a semi flatbed trailer hooked to it.

Well I have a tahoe that burns gas like there was a hole in the tank. Stick to a cheap 4 cylinder car that gets you from point A to point B. Save your money for the dog .

I talked to a guy about this truck earlier in the month. I was, and still am considering it for my Detroit project; The measurements seem to suggest it would fit. I wonder if the cab has been changed to the older style? It's always been said the larger cab change came with the 73 model year chassis. Me, I'm kinda partial to the smaller cab with "less" amenities. Maybe that is why I'm also partial to A & B models.

Rob

So competition eh. We will see who gets it first. LOL just kiddin . 12v71 detroit? Sounds like a sweet project. Heck I think I am going to pass on it anyway, WA is just too far and to spend more on the shipping then the truck is kinda silly to me. If anyone knows of a nice 700, maybe one with a longer wheelbase in the new england area or close to it, let me know.

Wow mixed emotion here! Well The engine is a cummins thats missing most of the top end so I would need an engine. Tranny and everything else is fine. Im just a little dissapointed that it has the older R cab. I dont mind it but I like the newer R interior. Looks clean, long wheel base, bud wheels which I prefer on a 700.

Trent your probably having java script problems. Here are all the pics:

Sorry I overlooked this post , but I am a member of a site called chevytalk.com that might can help you. They cover everything GM old to new, cars and trucks. Each body style has it's own forum.

Thanks! I fixed the problem, poor fan clutch design that often fails. Chevy wont issue a recall and the dealer wanted 350 for the damn thing. Found the website gmpartsdirect.com from asking in the forum barry gave me, and got the part for $214 with shipping. The thing that gets me is that its an electro-viscous and it has 5 wires running into the clutch on a what can be decribed as a slip-ring. Love computers and electronics but it drives the cost of repair up. Replacing it was a nightmare.