Joey Mack

this model has an acc. relay to the left in the pic. i think there is 4 or 5 cubes there... switch thee acc. relay with the headlight relay and see if issue stops.. also there is a ground cluster on a 6mm bolt to the right in the pic... clean it... theres another behind the cluster to the left.. clean it.... clean the ground breaker on the firewall, and the 5/8" bolt on the left side of the engine block and behind the left steer tire where that grounds bolts on, this for a 9-2 code, however,, a bad ground can do this.. I also made a repair last month that I have made about a dozen times.... right below the Engine fuse box on the firewall by the steering shaft, the large harness may rub against the bracket on the firewall, and it cuts into the wires and causes shorts or a complete dissconnect. before you spend thousands for an ECM... jojo

probably 44k... the 4 cap bolts at the trunnion may be 7/8"... I just worked on one last month and now just brainfarted.... Ithink they are 7/8''...jojo

there is a bank of celenoids on the frame rail or a cross member rear of the cab. each one has a job. that is where you can find if air is being sent to the powerdivider, and fifth wheel nd suspension, and air ride,,, anyway, you get it... your truck is a Volvo.... jojo

damn!!!! hell of a deal.... i like coe's

Keep in mind... the connecting rods are "Fractured"..... Be deliberate on how you handle them, check fitment accuracy upon reassembly.... Nothing to fear, just pay attention to the joint.. jojo

And that alone is reason enough.... Just do it right because there is no room for short cuts on this engine, any engine really, but this engine is a well designed piece of engineering and if you are going to do it.... do it right.... follow all torque procedures, replace the bolts as required, get the correct orings and so forth.. the oil pump does have a fits and limits for reuse, you may be surprised at what will pass inspection related to scratches and the little pitting that seems to happen to them.. I hope that "F: and "V" add to what I just said.. jojo

yes sir... i understand... thank you, jojo

good morning Dave. i'm doing much better.. So far my wife is safe. she has gone back to work this week. I'm hoping to do a little work myself, but Still need to be careful... This really took a lot out of me. Of course I wish you safety from this, but if it happens please pay attention to the symptoms and follow Dr.orders, with a touch of common sense.. I am a stubborn person so there were challanges that I added... Thank you for your concern, Joey Mack

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no, but stay online... someone will show up... i will try to help when possible. jojo

My pleasure, I will stay in touch, I can try to help, but it would be best if I was there with you... I could just do it.. jojo

ok, the electrical in your truck is very basic, My schematics are newer, sorry... there should be 2 buss bars on the firewall by the steering shaft. there you will find all wires for the whole truck. the reverse wires I think are on pin #11. my suggestion would be to take time to i.d. the wires and what they do and write them down, there are little plastic posts right next to the studs with numbers stamped in the end. should be 2 rows of 16... so basically, repair every eyelet that needs it, one at a time.. I just did this on an 86 RW that needed an electrical upgrade. I did not need schematics... pin 5 and 10 should be power with the key "on" for example.. you can use those posts to power reverse lights if needed, or whatever... protect the circuits as you see fit. I dont think yours is old enough to have buss bars under the fenders for the hood, but, mabey.. get familiar with the accesory relay in the center of the dash, the relay on the firewall, and the ground breaker on the firewall. Knowing these will help a bunch. jojo

as afr as a chassis book, I dont have one.. One of the best books to have is a: Maintenance and lube book.. It is the "Bible' if you will.. I can get that book number too, you need one!! I also have a lot of electrical schematics, so if you get specific with me I can scan some and send them to you, I'm not concerned about money, rather would like to help a Mack Brother.. jojo

OK. I got this one 20 years ago, its more specific for you.. you should be able to find it under $150.00 w/shipping... Good luck, Jojo

The 2080 is incorperated in the 200 series book.. I will get the book number for you in a minute..

Ok... well were you able to see the book number on the engine book? that can help you locate the correct book..

Thank you... I love it.... Jojo

I know you were looking for 1 or 2 books... I may not be the right seller for you... however. the whole set can be had for $500.00. minus any engine books...Please understand where i'm coming from on the price. Jojo

can you find out when the cam has been done? oil pump and rods and mains? Check overboard breather output when running... You know.... theres a bunch to look at, 600,000 isnt super high, but..... anyway... good luck on the choice and the risk, jojo

so true.. I was just outside for a bit. It was nice.. Im still very weak and dizzy, so im sitting for a bit then i will go back out... Jojo👍

Im being cautious.. If im too weak to work I will come back inside... I am stubborn, but I mean well...:)

Thank you Dave... I am doing a lot better today, I'm still dizzy because of my ears being clogged, but I think I can go out to my shop today and get back on the 3 engines I have on stands that need to be built... I greatly appreciate everyone who has contacted me. I started this post just because.... I was bored from sitting around, and just felt like Chatting... Well...... It worked... I am blessed by my new found friends... Thank you and all who cares, Joey Mack

I just put this on a superliner that I am re-doing. I used 3/8" line to the pilot port on top... it works just fine, just supply the vavle with 1/2" or 5/8" from the tank.. the valve knows what to do.. jojo

I think they are the same. mabey take both vin's to mack and check the cab part number on each.. just a thought, jojo

You can drop the oil pump and the main at No.7 to check the health of the bearing and oil pump. It's a "Job". you have a large stiffing tray and oil pick/up tubing with orings to replace, and a boatload of bolts to remove.. You can also cut open the oil filters to check for metal flakes but thats still not going to pinpoint where the metal came from.. So my guess Is to weigh the reasons, and decide... The lower end Is a quaility lower end, and the work to do a good bearing job is much higher than an E-7/E-Tech..... I expect more comments from our Canadian friends on this one, as they are still working on this series of engine today. OK "V" and "F".. You're next.. Jojo