tenfive0

WTF????????????????????

The floor DOES NOT come apart. It is going to be a mess. It looks like I am going to have to be a contortionist AGAIN to work on the truck. The valve will have to drop out the bottom. Nothing but fun owning a CF-600 Cab. Everything was assembled around everything else in the way. I haven't found anything that can't be done but nothing is done the easy way. I'll have to get the valve out the bottom from under the cab to at least see or get an idea what's going on. I've already done a lot of rust repairs to the floor on the truck when I installed an air seat. I might do some more hacking and cut in the area around the valve when I get it out to make it easier to reassemble and to gain access later if the valve ever needs to be replaced again . Do you know anyone who can weld? Thanks for the help.

I've been doing some searching around on the internet. I found lots of choices for complete (new) valves. Just as well replace the valve completely. It is going to be a PITA (wrestling match) to get the faulty valve out. I don't want to do it at all but if I have to do I don't want to do it twice. Question: was there a standard (part number) valve Mack used on their air brake system?

I have an air leak on my 1972 CF-600. I found a few loose fitting today and tightened them up. It got better and I thought I had it figured out but still had a slight leak. I figured good enough. My son walks by and says you have an air leak. No shi_ Sherlock. He says I can hear it. It's coming from the drivers side under the cab. I've been trying to track down the leak for a few months. He crawls under the truck and in less then 5 seconds says what's this. I take look and it turns out to be the Foot Brake Air Valve is leaking. The valve and around it was filthy. I spayed it with WD-40 and cleaned around it the best I could. Still leak. My question is, are Foot Brake Valves rebuildable or do you just replace them? Looks like it could be rebuilt. It's not in a good or easy spot to get to. I don't want to do it once let alone twice.

I know it's not bending. I'm just busting balls.

It looks like it might be bending in the middle.

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WTF? Joe to visit Mack Truck Plant in Macungie TODAY. See you all there. NOT - I don't think so. Not me. I wouldn't go even if they paid me a United Auto Works salary for the day. Wounder how many employees are calling out sick? Or is the Union or Management making it a MANDATE to participate. Participate or else. Show you vaccine card or else. The local news channel is all gooey Joe is COMING. I bet you Joe hasn't came in years. He is so old and feeble-minded if he did come it would be talcum powder and he'd think it was a dry fart. The secret service would have to change his pants on scene. Hey, Joe, boxers or briefs? - DEPENDS.

Occasionally, I don't mind taking the old lady along. I just nod and pretend I can hear her.

My truck runs a direct bolt fan (without a clutch) and shutters. That is the the way I prefer it. The noise I hear is music to my ears and my truck does not have a radio.

Test drive today and it seems to be fixed. Perhaps better then before the shutterstat took a crap. The engine is running cooler. The temp gauge is reading just a tick below 180. If the gauge is right? Now, someone tell me it should be running hotter. But, I'm happy were its at.

Yeah, usually my approach, too. But, at the risk of getting it right I thought I'd ask. I'm still shaking nervous about the disaster avoided if I rounder off or snapped a bolt. After I got the 175 degree shutterstat off the engine I took it apart. The top half, air chamber looked like it was filled with 3 months expired cottage cheese and the rubber seals crumbled like stale potato chips. After disassembling and cleaning the removed shutterstat, I'm going to try to refurbishing it. I'm thinking about buying a new/old stock donor (higher or lower temp) shutterstat and using the top with my 175 degree shutterstat bottom half. The workings of the shutterstat look pretty simple and straight forward. I figure it's worth trying to fix the 175 shutterstat as a spare to keep on the shelf if the replacement 180 degree shutterstat fails or it doesn't work. Because, they aren't making 175 degree shutterstats anymore.

Nothing the easy way. I had to remove the coolant filter from engine to gain access to the shutterstat to remove it from the coolant manifold. The filter is attached to a bracket and the bracket is attached to the coolant manifold held on the engine with three 3/8" 16 x 2-3/4 bolts. The first two bolts came out with a 9/16" six sided socket and 3/8" breaker bar and a little bit of grunting. I thought this isn't going to be too bad. Of course the 3rd bolt wouldn't budge with a six sided socket and 1/2" breaker bar. I started rounding the third bolt head using the socket and breaker. I had to resort the using an impact set on kill. It took about 20 minutes turning the bolt both ways, sweating jelly beans and cursing to finally get the bolt loose. I am reassembling the truck. Figured I'd take a few minutes. The first two bolt went in smoothly but the third bolt isn't giving up the fight easily. The threads and bolt hole is clogged up with corrosion. Turning the bolt in a little at a time cleaning the threads, backing it out and blowing it out with an air gun. I was contemplating replacing the thermostat but the way the third bolt is fighting I don't want to press my luck. I'm leaving well enough alone because the thermostat appear to have been operation correctly. Is there a specific torque setting for the water manifold bolts?

The old (broken) shutterstat was 175. The closest shutterstat I can find to a 175 is 180. If the 10 degree rule applies the thermostat currently in the truck should be a 165. A 165 thermostat with a 180 shutterstat is 15 degrees difference higher. If 5 degrees difference is to close together. The question is 15 degrees difference to far apart?

Thanks to all who have contributed with guidance. While I'm replace the shutterstat I'm considering replace the thermostat, OR NOT? It IS difficult finding a 175 degree shutterstat. No surprise. The closest shutterstat match I've come up with to the original is 180. Regardless, if the 175 is or was factory original it decided to exit the procession. From what I've reached there should be a (rule of thumb?)10 degree difference between the thermostat and shutterstat. Accordingly the thermostat that is currently in my truck "SHOULD BE" a 165. WHO KNOWS, what might have been done to the truck 46 or 47 years prior to me owning it? Should I care or just pretend I didn't know there should be a 10 degree difference between the thermostat and shutterstat? Next dilemma find a 170 thermostat if I use a 180 shutterstat. Is the 10 degree difference between the thermostat and shutterstat a minimum or maximum difference? What's a 5 degree difference between friends? Will a 5 degree difference be noticeable or even make a difference? I would just as soon not change the thermostat because it appears the engine was happy and things were operating correctly other then the shutterstat pooping on the parade. Trying to keep it simple if I can and not open up another can of whoop ass on myself replacing a thermostat (that appears to be operable) if I don't have too. My luck, while trying to replace a thermostat I break off a bolt or snap the thermostat housing somehow. A 2 or 3 hour job turns into another nightmare 40 hour job of busted knuckles and cursing when I should have just left well enough alone.

Nothing the easy way. I figured simple fix. Just call the parts store. NO LUCK. I'm just getting tiered of the constant beat down lately. Every which way I turn I've been getting screwed. Like I said I have to get creative and I don't want to have to reinvent the wheel when it would have been much simpler to just get the replacement parts needed. Thanks for to assistance with a few ideas on which way to turn if I can't come up with a solution to the way the existing system operated for the past 50 years.

PITA- Trying to find any Shutterstat let alone a 175. Wondering if its worth all the bull-crap owning an older truck. Come on this should be simple finding basic replacement parts? Not like I need a flux capacitor for time a machine. Maybe that's what I need a time machine to go back in time and stock pile parts for the future. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel. I guess I'm going to have to get creative and come up with some kind of toggle switch hooked to an air valve to open an close the shutters.

Troubleshooting - Testing Shutterstat Remove air line from the shutterstat to the shutters air cylinder - Air line pressure bleeds off - Shutter spring pressure overcomes air line pressure - Shutters open. Any leads or ideas on where to get a new shutterstat? I have no clue what if any thermostat is in the truck but I'll be checking while replacing the shutterstat when and if I find one. Over the winter of 2019 I blew to radiator in the truck. Before I had it re-cored the temp would occasionally reach 200 on moderate to long up hill grades with my foot in it. Since the radiator's been fixed the truck consistently operates at 180 degrees. Warmer days with a heavy foot up hills the gauge might creep towards 190 but nothing higher. What might be suggested as a good operating temperature? I figured 180 was where it was at. When it starts to approach 190 I get nervous.

Was out and about, noticed engine temperature gauge rising to 190. Pulled over to cool down and investigate. Shutters not opening. Turned around limping and wounded back to the shop. Edit: When I returned to the shop: I Remove the air line from the Shutterstat to the Shutters Air Cylinder - Air line pressure bleed off - Shutter spring pressure overcame the air line pressure - Shutters opened. I was going to try to make it back to the show and walk the flea market to see if I could stumble across someone who might have had one for sale but it started to rain and it was to late after I got done trouble shooting, trying to fix, test driving and screwing around. I don't want to high jack the thread. I already posted in threads in "Want to Buy - Engines and Transmissions ." If anyone has a Shutterstat 24000 collecting dust that they don't mind (selling) getting rid of please message me. The (broken) Shutterstat is marker 175 degrees.

Interested in buying - Looking for - Need a - Kysor 175° Degree Shutterstat

Noticed this morning while driving my shutters were not opening. Enigne temp went to 190 and I pulled over to cool down and investigate. Tapped on the Shutterstat - maybe it was stuck. No Luck. Limped back to the shop. Simple things first. There is air the Shutterstat. Called my local Mack Dealer and then Watts to find out Shutterstat are no longer available. When a Shutterstat stops working are they scrap meta? Are these serviceable? Can you take them apart perhaps to clean them in an effort to get them working? I don't want to take it apart and totally screw things up.