rustydog

NOW THINGS ARE STARTIN TO WARM UP A BIT

MY GUESS IS THAT THE DUMP DOESN'T WORK, SO THEY HAVE TO CART 8 GUYS TO UNLOAD IT BY HAND

NOW THATS FUNNY RIGHT THERE!!!!! :clap: :clap: :clap:

Is that a horn button in there?? worth almost as much as the cab??? not really but i think 125 at watts??

I agree with Rob....I always have problems with shrinkage when its this damn cold out

i have done many B model square tanks. I usualy take a grinder and grind down the welds around the ends til they are flat then take a sawsall and cut the end caps off. I then take the and have the inside and outside sandblasted. I have used the tank coating from eastwood and the red stuff from Napa. both work well, stay away from the white coating they sell for motorcycle tanks.its garbage and flakes off. I usually brush it on the inside of the tank and end caps and stay about an inch away from the edge. weld the caps back on, air test it, then pour more sealer inside the tank from the fill and roll it around so it treats the area you welded.

Maddog...i dont wanna get you mad.....but what would the results be like just cleaning the rust out,(loctite naval jelly) and rinse/neutralize the tank. If fuel kept full and treated would this work for any length of time?

thx

is your tank aluminum or steel?

Steel, Rob.....by the way I'm now an alternator man!!!

I WOULD BUY IT ......CEPT THE AIR HORNS FALLIN OFF

.

AND THE NEW OWNER IS????????

HAS ANYBODY EVER COATED INSIDE OF FUEL TANK?? CURIOUS ABOUT PROCEDURE/RESULTS

THX

Well as I am sure many of you know the weather here the last week and a few days was brutally cold and close to no humidity. What you may not know is that yesterday and today we had a very dramatic warm-up, the high today was 57 and a little more than 2 inches of rain, so the air was pretty damp.

I went out to the garage earlier tonight to get a screw driver, and the first thing I notice when I flick on the lights is the windows of the FWD are completely fogged up with condensation. So is all of the sheet metal, and anything else metal in the garage including my three billion dollars worth of tool boxes.....And the concrete floor, and the metal storage lockers I have out there.....Seems the sudden warm up with the humidity caused everything inside the garage that was ice cold to form condensation. Shit.

I have the overhead door cracked an inch and two box fans running out there now to circulate the air. Supposed to be sunny and 42 degrees tomorrow so I plan on opening the garage door wide open and letting it really air out well.

SAME THING HERE!!

As a guy who doesn't have the mechanical expertise that alot on here do...I really appreciate all the help I have been offered over the past few years of being a member. It does really seem like a family, even though I am a listener mostly..I had been away for awhile last year...and have a question....what happened to ROB.....who used to always mention "Mama" and in my opinion had probably the most posts and answers on here....I can only hope the answer isn't bad.......

Rusty

stop wasting time and money and taking the chance of ruining your battery's and regulator, spend $100 and put an alternator on it.

A generator system is considered unreliable because of all the things that can fail, it is old technology that not only saps your batteries but your wallet.

My dad swore by that system because of it will allow a gas engine to run without a good battery so he felt if could get the tractors started he use it and when time allowed fix it, long story short he spent a lot of evenings working on the systems and repolarizing and checking grounds and replacing batteries. When I got older talked him into putting on a used 12v GM alternator on the John Deere 3020 with in a month everything that had a generator on it was changed one over to an alternator. And just like that battery's only needed to be replaced when some one stole them or years later, everything started and ran just fine.

BTW that John Deere 3020 still works and has the same used alternator on it that was put on at least 30 years ago.

Rob, I will probably end up going that route......while I can do alot of things, electric theory is not one of them! BUT..I am stubborn about finding out WHY AND WHAT is wrong with my setup.....gets very frustrating to not be able to find the right person locally who probably can find out and help to correct problem....this crap is holding me up from finishing and finally getting some pics up of the truck..THANKS for the advice.......

yes get your grounds installed!!!! this will cause all sorts of mysterious problems, eng. needs to be gnd. to frame, frame needs to be grounded to the body, if in doubt add a ground to many are just enough.

also you can test the gen. on the truck un hook the wires and drop the belt. I looked on line but cant find the directions if I remeber right you gnd the frame and power the field. and armature should spin. this will tell you if generator is functioning properly.

IF ANY ONE ELSE KNOWS THIS TEST PLEASE CHIME IN

ABSOLUTELY..gearhead...its next on my list to do ...everything except engine is grounded...thx

The diagram is for a neg ground system , same for positive ground just different battery terminals

Disconnect the generator from the regulator (probably easiest to simply take the wires off the generator).

Connect a jumper from DF on the generator to the generator frame. Now run the engine and measure the voltage from ground to D+ on the generator.

NOTE: Some generators have different types of terminals;

verify which is DF and which is D+.

As you increase the engine speed, the voltage should jump up to +25 volts or so

If it passes this test, the generator is good.

(Don't run this test longer than necessary as it will overheat the generator.)

the generator on this is an old delco..which was rebuilt...terminals are a f g.... in my research...it is mentioned you have either an a type or b type circuit....which would this be?? Here is another clue...when putting running lights on, ammeter shows slight discharge. with key switch on..lights off..turning on heater motor shows nothing on ammeter...and when running..shows nothing charging.

If you have a voltmeter, here are some easy tests to make:

Measure the voltage across the battery. Should be about 12 to 12.6 volts with the engine off. As the engine speeds up, the voltage should increase to somewhere around 14 volts. If it does, the generator is working and charging the battery

Did you polarize the generator with the belt off. If you had the belt off and it did not spin, the generator my be defective. Automotive /truck generators need some magnetism to get started. This "residual" magnetism remains in the Field pole pieces even after the engine has stopped.

You might also pull the cover off the voltage regulator and make sure the points are not fried shut after running it. Even though the Regulator was new it only takes a second to burn the points. Most of the OEM style have a screw on cover to "tune it"

41...my auto electric guy took gen and reg back to shop and tested there and everything working......he told me to polarize it on the truck when running at idle....which I did and still nothing.....this has an ampmeter

Thanks for all the replies.......unfortunately, I still havent figured this out yet.....seems everything is connected correctly, polarization is also correct, checked grounding as mentioned in thread. The engine was not grounded, so I am going to do that...dont know if that is problem, but suspect maybe...stay tuned

On my B..have 12v neg grnd generator, voltage reg, all new guages....gen & reg new as well. When not running..with light switch on ampmeter shows SLIGHT drain.

When started and running, even at high rpms..got nothing showing on ammeter.. Does this ring any bells to the electrical masterminds out there? Could I have neglected to ground something somewhere?? any ideas at all would be most appreciated....any simple tests to isolate problem?? thanks fellas

THE QUICK ANSWER TO THIS THREAD IS JUST TO TURN AROUND THE "KEPT NUTS".

REPLACING HEADLIGHT CANS,COMPLETE ON MY B......THERE ARE 6 SLIDE NUTS, KEPT NUTS OR WHATEVER YOU WANT TO CALL THEM ON THE HLITE PANEL. 3 FACE IN AND 3 FACE OUT.....WHAT CONFUSES ME IS THAT THE 3 FACING OUT SEEM TO BE FOR THE ALUM FINISH RING....BUT DO THOSE NUTS WORK BOTH WAYS?? I CHECKED ANOTHER PANEL AND ITS THE SAME......ANYBODY EVER CAME ACROSS THIS?????

THANKS

ill make this easier. its on ebay for 4000 fuckin dollars. end of topic! move on!

:loldude: :loldude: OMG LMAO :loldude: :loldude:

Richard, I know I have a spare b61, I think I have a thermodyne, but its in two pcs...prolly can be tacked as Rob said. let me know if you got them yet, and I will post a pic or two

rusty

I AGREE WITH THE GENTLEMAN FROM NEW HAMPSHIRE!!

GOOD LOOKING F !! NOW THE B HAS SOME COMPANY!! ONLY THING IS YOU WILL NEED A HEAVIER PAIR OF WORK BOOTS TO KEEP HER RUNNIN SMOOTH!!

BEST OF LUCK ROB

WOW......LEARN SOMETHIN NEW EVERY DAY.....HAD NO IDEA MACK PRODUCED THESE.......NOW I WANT ONE!!!

THANKS FOR POSTING THIS ARTICLE

GREAT WORK THERE ROB!!!!