rustydog

Nice job! B model with a liitle leg room.

JIM....YOU GOT THAT RIGHT...VERY LITTLE LEG ROOM!!....IT HAS 2 JUMPSEATS IN EXTENDED CAB, SO NOT MUCH SPACE BETWEEN MY BELLY AND THE WHEEL. BUT I AM HAPPY THE WAY ITS COMING TOGETHER...THX

THANKS LARRY, AND ALL FOR THE COMPLIMENTS.....KINDA MAKES IT WORTH IT.....RUSTY

Rusty,you should pat the fellows at Gallo's on the back for the great job their doing.I went through all of the pic on the site and it's unsurpass craftsmenship.Like to see it when it done,I'm up in Philly redoing my 64 B87 tractor.Taking the cheap man method by doing it all myself.

MIKE...ITS ONLY A ONE MAN SHOP FOR THE MOST PART!!....AND ITS OLD SCHOOL CRAFTMANSHIP TO BE SURE....IF THE WEATHER EVER WARMS UP GIVE ME A CALL AND COME DOWN FOR A LOOK

ONE OF MY FAVORITE PICS

I looked at all of the restoration pictures the other nite on Gallo Restorations site. this truck is really nice and the guy is really handy with a welder!

YES SIR...I CAME UP WITH THE IDEA, AND NOT BEING A BODY OR PAINT GUY...WENT TO BOB GALLO, gallorestorations.com...anyone interested can go to his site and see the entire process from start to finish. I HAD TO STAY COMMITTED TO IT EVEN THOUGH I DONT HAVE THE KIND OF MONEY IT REALLY TAKES TO UNDERGO SOMETHING LIKE THIS. AND ITS NOT FINISHED YET!!!

That's nice work. Rare long left fuel tank. Did you use half a back window for your 1/4 windows??

THANKS S/D....YES...HALF FRAMES USED FOR OPERA WINDOWS... WHEN I GET THE REST OF TOOLS OUT OF IT WILL POST SOME PICS OF INTERIOR

looks good I like the color what shade is that.

ALEX....THX...MY GUY WHO DID BODY & PAINT CUSTOM BLENDED IT, I THINK ITS BASED ON AN OLD GM COLOR..VERY PALE GREEN

BEST WISHES TO ALL TODAYS PARTY BOYS :clap:

hi, is your truck positive ground or negative ground. there should be two solenoid on the cow ,if it is neg. ground then hook the wire to positive side of battery or from positive side of solenoid then to battery.

hope this helps because when the key is turn on the solenoid is then + positive on the other side then that wire leads to the panel box, that is where the head light switch should gets power through a fuse. there are a couple of ways but you need a fuse or breaker in line if a switch is in line. if I can I while

try to post a diagram.

NOW WE ARE GETTING CLOSER.....THE TRUCK HAS BEEN CONVERTED TO 12V NEG GRND

THE ORIG MACK WIRING HAS A #8 WIRE GOING FROM ONE SIDE OF AMMETER TO LIGHT SWITCH, THEN OUT OF LIGHT SWITCH TO POWER FUSE BLOCK..AT LEAST THAT'S THE WAY I SEE IT.

THE REPLACEMENT LITE SW. FROM WATTS, HAS A BREAKER ATTACHED DIRECTLY TO IT. SO SHOULD A #8 WIRE GO FROM SOLENOID ON FIREWALL DIRECTLY TO LITE SWITCH.......THATS WAT IM TRYING TO DETERMINE

Horner Mack was my families home dealer for decades! they sold out to the Bergey Truck Group several years ago,one of the very last Old School" dealers that was left on the east coast. Personally,i wouldn't let Bergey change the hinges on my lunchbox!.....................................Mark

THATS NOT A VERY NICE THING TO SAY......SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAD SOME BAD EXPERIENCES THERE, MARK

OK, SWITCHED MY B MOD FROM GEN. TO ALTERNATOR. ORIGINAL WIRING HAD A #8 WIRE GOING FROM BACK OF AMMETER TO LIGHT SWITCH, THEN TO FUSE PANEL. ( ASSUME THAT LIGHT SWITCH WAS HOT ALL THE TIME)

NEW WIRING AND REPLACING AMM. WITH VOLTMETER....WHERE SHOULD I HOOK HOT WIRE TO ALTERNATOR FROM?? DIRECT OFF STARTER SOLENOID, OR FROM SOLENOID MOUNTED ON FIREWALL??

VOLT METER GETS ONE SIDE + TO IGN. SWITCH AND OTHER SIDE - TO ENG. GRND. CORRECT??

WHERE DO I CONNECT #8 WIRE THAT WAS GOING FROM AMM. TO LITE SWITCH??? FROM SOLENOID ON FIREWALL TO LITE SWITCH??

THE WIRING DIAGRAM ON WIKI DOES NOT SHOW HOOKUP FOR VOLT METER, SO I PUT THE QUESTION OUT THERE TO THE EXPERTS

THANKS, RUSTY

84.....i thought the same thing.....the design guy must have quit mack and went to work for gmc.......

Hi Rusty I sent a relief valve spring the other day is it possible that the oil is draining out of the oil filter when shut down making it look like the engine is full of oil but when running the filter fills and the engine is low. I think the filter holds about two gallons. My b has a bypass filter but it is mounted to the frame behind the cab and I think is to low to drain back. I think there is a valve in the filter to keep it from draining back also could. The lines be reversed. Dean

DEAN.....GOT THE SPRINGS YESTERDAY....THANK YOU VERY MUCH...WILL BE SENDING YOU A CHECK TOMORROW....I DID USE ONE OF THEM AND WILL HAVE HER BACK TOGETHER TOMORROW, THINK I GOT IT FIGGERD OUT..

RUSTY

14,.....REALLY? DID NOT REALIZE THAT YOUNG!!.....WISH BMT EXISTED WHEN I WAS 14!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY U MODEL VIN!!

Yeah sounds like the bypass spring on the plunger in the oil pump is a stuck. You'll need to take that part of the oil pump apart and check out the piston and the bore also make sure the piston moves freely in the bore, they sometimes seize or get scored maybe the spring is broke

UPDATE....DISCONNECTED GUAGE LINE BOTH ENDS..BLEW OUT W AIR..NOTHING BAD ..STARTED UP WENT UP TO 60 FOR ABOUT A MINUTE, THEN DROPPED TO 20-25PSI..REVVING MADE NO DIFFERENCE, NO PRESSURE/OIL SQUIRTING OUT OF BYPASS FILTER WHEN PLUG LOOSENED

REMOVED PAN....SPRING INTACT, PISTON PULLED OUT EASILY...NOT SURE WHERE TO GO FROM HERE????

HAPPY BIRTHDAYS TO ALL THE GUYS TODAY!!

Hi I think my b was kept running over the years with whatever leftover parts were around I put a new oil gauge in it that goes to 100 and when it was cold the gauge would go all the way around and stop on the wrong side of the pin. Mine had a spring in it for a 3 line filter with the regulator on the block on the side of the engine. But mine has a bypass filter. I ordered the right spring from the local mack dealer and it never came in so I called watts mack and they got me one of the last new ones in stock from a different dealer . A few weeks later my local dealer came up with one also. If you need a new spring I have an extra one I would be glad to send you. Dean

Dean..sent you a pm

Yeah sounds like the bypass spring on the plunger in the oil pump is a stuck. You'll need to take that part of the oil pump apart and check out the piston and the bore also make sure the piston moves freely in the bore, they sometimes seize or get scored maybe the spring is broke

IS THIS COVERED IN ANY OF THE WIKI TOPICS ON HERE?? I'M NOT THE BEST!

re check gauge with a known good gauge. un thread fitting on block and test at block. Does oil pressure increase with eng. speed? does it decrease with eng. temp?

GUAGE AND LINE BRAND NEW....USED TO READ UP TO 60PSI...SHE WAS HOLDIN STDY AT 20+...SEEMED LIKE STARTED TO GO UP AS ENGINE WARMED..NO MOVEMENT WHEN REVVED

OK, CHARGING SYSTEM ISSUES CORRECTED..INSTALLED ALTERNATOR AS ADVISED BY ALL, (OR MOST); "MATCHED" SET OF MACK BELTS WEREN'T..THEY JUMPED..REPLACED....FUEL TANK PROBLEM CORRECTED..RE-INSTALLED AND FILLED UP..CHANGED ALL FUEL FILTERS, AND WANTED TO CHANGE OIL/FILTER BEFORE TRYING TO FINISH UP AND INSTALL FENDERS. CRANKED HER UP TODAY WITH NEW OIL, BELTS, ETC.....AND I ONLY GOT LIKE 20-25 PSI OIL PRESSURE!! ENGINE SOUNDS OK, NO KNOCKS, NOISES OR SUCH....COULD THE OIL GUAGE LINE BE CLOGGED UP?? I ALSO REMOVED AND CLEANED LOWER PAN/SCREEN WHEN OIL SVC. USED 15W40 FROM NAPA......ANY THOUGHTS??

$$ EVERYTHINGS BIGGER IN TEXAS

Yeh Mark......I got some wood for her to chomp

CUTE!! THAT WOULD NEVER HAPPEN IN CANTON, FARMER!! :clap:

PPPEEEERRRRTTTYYY