ducky698

Hi Grant, I have three R cabs in the shop that have been changed. All are bent in the roof skin/drip rails attributed to lifting with a sling from a single lifting point. All cabs were fully dressed, (complete) when they were done, (not by me) and I get to repair them which is relatively easy and pays well.

Rob

On a side note: What type of voltages and frequency do you folks run down under?

Hi, maybe they need to be more gentle with fork lift? this thing was a complete rusty cab the doors took the weight. it came off ok, poor thing.

we use 250volt in houses, 3 phase in industrial, and 12volt in most trucks an cars, euro stuff like volvo is 24 volt.

Grant

Hi, I left doors shut an used a forklift with slippers through doors, the cab i am rebuilding doesnt even have a roof on it and it didnt move, the put it on a pallet.

pics in album.

Grant

hey rob ,are you trying to pop the tie rod end off the hub or remove the tie rod end from the tie rod??if your trying to pop the tie rod off the hub can you put a long bar over the top of the tie rod and under the axle and get someone(maybe daughter)to pull down,if possible put 2 jaw pull on the tie rod end and give it heaps,then get that hammer while helper(daughter too pull down as you hit),good luck adrian

What about a proper ball joint removing tool? you should be able to get one at Pep boys? if not keep hitting mine came off with a 40oz hammer but it took a bit of hitting and was out of the truck.

Grant

Hello, welcome, its the place to be for Mack stuff, i have an 866 that i am intercooling, so that should be interesting??

regards Grant

Hello, welcome, its the place to be for Mack stuff, i have an 866 that i am intercooling, so that should be interesting??

youll have nothing left if you keep going at this rate, why dont you just pretend you are in england build the cab out of timber frame then put some tin sheeting on the outside, it worked for them !!!!!

thats a thought, but um unfortunately the Cutty Sark burnt down, so wiill avoid wood. I um got a phone call today someone looking for a cab for his R model because his had to much rust in it around the top. i tried selling him the flintstone cab i have but wants a plastic dash cab, he is going to chabge his mind when he sees how bad this cab is an hopefully fixs his.??

Grant

I am only doing it once! then if it falls to bits i can ask why, rather than go well thats because i was a slacko and took a short cut.

i flipped cab onto its back today, am going to do work undernieth and brace it a little more so i can run some beems through to solid mount it to the 60inch bunk, then make cab and bunk air ride. and also will pad under floor, i will be able to here a mouse fart when engine running

Grant

started cutting out the rust on right side today. am running out of cab. will have a new inner and outer sill soon.

Ahh, yes. The orientation of the part in the photo is not how it is mounted onto the perimeter of the door aperture opening. I've never had to purchase one of those, always made them.

I must say, "You're going after it right".

Rob

I am only doing it once! then if it falls to bits i can ask why, rather than go well thats because i was a slacko and took a short cut.

i flipped cab onto its back today, am going to do work undernieth and brace it a little more so i can run some beems through to solid mount it to the 60inch bunk, then make cab and bunk air ride. and also will pad under floor, i will be able to here a mouse fart when engine running

Grant

hey grand do not use all the parts by yourself.mayby i need some of them for my cab.lol.

The middle item is the inner section above the door, when you open the door and look up at cab, thats what your looking at.

i need all these panels, but more are available, just let me know what you want and i will price it for you.

Grant

For reference: In 1997 I replaced a cab on a 1997 CH-613 daycab tractor, (electrical fire damage) with a 12,400 mile original that was complete. The donor truck rolled over with a frameless dump and stuck grain. The only damage to the donor cab was where the passenger mirror destroyed the door. The cab came with a new OEM door shell, and all replacement window and latch parts from another truck. The air lines were cut in front of the valves leaving everything intact for an easy swap. The wiring was not cut, but rather, unplugged.

I paid $6500.00 for this complete, and it even had the upgraded interior with twin air seats, and nice interior decor package. Although I did drive 230 miles to retreive it, I was very comfortable as if it would have been my truck, it would have been rebuilt. The complete job including full repaint did not cross $15,000.00. In fact I gutted the cab out, replaced all the glass with used, bleached the entire cab to rid it of burnt electrical smell, had it media blasted, then primed, and sold it to a guy who probably still runs it. Structurally it was not hurt, and there was no damage, or warp at all.

$34,000.00 is a lot of money in my book any angle it is looked at. R model cabs can be had a lot less expensive than CH models most any day I've found. In fact I purchased a very nice rust free bare cab without dents for my RL-755L at less than $700.00 just last year. Good trucks and parts are out there, one just has to be patient to find them.

I admire your "drive" to rebuild that truck. I've seen a lot better scrapped. I'm sure you have some experience with autobody work or you would never expend the sizeable funds you ultimately will for parts and supplies. Just don't give up once you start!

I've rebuilt several through the years and if I can help, just ask!

Rob

Hi, 34k is from Mack for that cab, i assume its complete??thankyou for your comments, will finish it. its going to cost around 5k in parts to fix the rust on this cab, atleast it will be rust free by then, poor thing is collapseing its that bad. 3 more panels turned up today. this is an easy job, just time consumeing, its all just repair or replace. I am all so building a replica Bat mobile from the dark knight so the Mack is an easy project compared to the ground up build of the Tumbler.

Ducky -

Where are you finding these repair panels?

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Hello, a Mack dealer in Australia. but you have to get a parts guy that knows how to look in a book and cross referance and then translate to another number and go on a computer. i am dealing with a shop in Brisbane.

most cant do that, they want a chassis number, then when they punch that into computer it says to old and they say sorry cant help.

that panel pictured is about 500.00AUD and there is a heap in sydney. there is also a brand new cab in sydney for 34,000.00

have 3 more panels to pic up today

Grant

The first of many rust repair sections has arrived. i have almost stripped the cab to um not much and found the left hand drive cab is same as right hand drive, all the colum and clutch mounts are there.

i"m going to built in the frame and look how its fits whit the green collor.i wil take some pictures of it and you can tel me if you like it.and when you don"t like it its to late corse it"s that collor anywhay. greetings, leon from the netherlands. sorry that you haerd nothing from me the last days but i was to bussy working on the old dog.

looking good. its moving ahead well. i have started work on my rusty R model cab.

Grant

Hey Grant those V8 V/liners had really small battery boxes on each side behind the wheels. even when they had airstart. jeffro

i see. ah well, more bits to get then. i still have to get an R700 western hood yet and an 18speed RR then i should have enuf parts to build it.

Grant

Hi Grant, 95% of Aussie Macks wereair start up until about mid 90's, so they only had 1 battery box, it was mounted on the lhs, air start tanks were mouted on the rhs.I think when S/liners & C/liners came out they might have had extra batteries even if they were air start. Jeffro

Hello, no worries. thankyou, thought it was batteries, but the one i caught a quick look at the other day looked like it was to small, not enough depth for batteries. the one i am wrecking now had batteries on left side only and was electric start.

Grant

Well,I have the Citation running.it runs pretty good,and I think it'll even run better when I get all the vacuum lines connected where they really go. Took it for a little test flight today,and I think its gonna be a good'un. Its A/C compressor,s froze up,but that's why windows roll down,and something in the power steering bracketry is goofy and the pump pulley won't line up,so I skipped that. Heck-it doesn't steer any harder than my does. I guess I can move on to the next project on my list-re-install the new clutch in a Bronco II correctly,try to get the hood relatively straight,take the front bumper and grille off the "yard goat" Bronco II and put that on the "complete" one. Once that's done it'll probably become the current work truck,when the Harley isn't up to the job.(offroad exploration,hauling engines,towing,jump-starting,etc.) anything bigger than the Bronco's capable of,I can use "Mad Max",the Chevy one ton,and it That won't do it,I can drag out the BIG GUNS and drive the . I'm trying to arrange things so I use as economical a vehicle as possible for each task. I might have a trailer and/or a pick up sold,so I'll be able to buy some gas and get some work done soon. ( I hope I didn't just jinx the deals!!)

Well,gotta go clean up the shop a little.

BTW-my place got "tagged" a couple of nights ago. Some low-life spray painted a dirty word on the Oxy. tank of my torches out in the yard,I KNOW-I shoulda called the cops but it never even crossed my mind,I grabbed a can of black paint and sprayed over it. So NOW,I guess I'll have to start locking everything into the shop,and rolling it all back out every day. This sucks-it'll take me about an hour every day just to clear out the shop so I can work,and put everything back up so it doesn't get used to feed some asshole's drug habit. It wasn't a gang type incident,I think it was just a punk kid,but I'm probably lucky nothing got stolen. Life goes on...

Speed

just dont kill that intrudrer if you catch em! police dont like that. trust me, I know.

the Kenny is getting 1.08 kilometers per litre its a c15 with an 18 double over and 4.56s

the max style coupe in my album is getting 6mpg with a 3800cfm Scott hat, a 6/71 supercharger with custom efi and 4V heads on a 351 clevo with a toploader 4spd and a 3.00 9inch diff. it goes well.

fuel is at 2.02 per litre now in port hedland

Hi Grant, most R model Mack trucks had batteries on both sides of the trucks. A total of four usually.

Rob

bummer, then i need adother battery box. thankyou.

Grant

Let me do some research for you Grant. How much of a hurry are you in? Have friends sending sawmill equipment to OZ later in the year and parts could "hitch a ride" in the container. I'll try to find out more information as to port etc. I'm sure the guys that purchased the mill would have no problem mailing the parts to you once there.

I purchased a couple of new OEM roof skins and have had the gutters made for much less money than you mention, (even after the conversion).

Rob

maique was after parts, was just wondering if they were the same as an R model? it looked to me like just an off set R cab.

have all ready got bits coming for mine, thankyou.

Grant

Whats in the box on the right side of the truck behind the front wheel on an R700? the left side is batteries, ehats in the right side?

Grant

A while back, I think here on this forum,

someone mentioned that a Canadian company

made R model cab parts. The report, as I remember,

was not too favorable with regard to the quality of

the parts.

Take a look at the old posts (Spring 2008), and I

think you'll find the info.

Paul Van Scott

are these cabs the same as an R model? if so what parts do you need?

its costing me 3000.00 to buy a new roof skin and all gutter panels for an R model.

regards Grant

Hi Grant, what I'm actually evaluating is staying three days in each area, and traveling the balance from point to point. We won't really have a schedule to adhere to, but want to take as much in as possible.

Rob

3 days in each area? are you flying from state to state? australia is 5% bigger than the USA with only 20million people and perth is about 27 drive time hours west of port peerie in south oz.

your gonna be busy.

regards Grant

If I recall it is a Mack PTO and no longer availible (thats the rumor I have heard) Most common set up was to bolt it to the lower coutershaft. You would need to check your trans to see if it will accept this PTO. There may be a stamp on one of the countershaft covers that notes that the trans will accept this PTO. if still not shure just pull the lower contershaftcover and look inside for splines. I think this was a more common set up for dumptrucks/lowboys etc.. Im not shure of the load rating for this one so check before you go looking. I just like this set up as you can keep the aux in direct or low low when raising the box. the only downside is you only get one PTO speed.

Hello, the one i have is bolted to trans on left side with 6 bolts, it was used with a tipper

would have to assume its pretty big.

regards Grant

Trent

Thanks Rod, I will in the near future start the research into this "venture".

I've pretty much got the NZ part locked down. A dear friend of mines' wife is actually from NZ and they visit every other year. We will travel with them and stay together during their duration traveling the country. Upon their departure back to the states, my party will depart for Australia for another four to six weeks sightseeing and visiting.

As far as going back? I dunno. I'm ready for a change. Don't really owe anybody anything. Kids are grown and gone. Don't even have grandkids yet. My new "younguns" have a bulldog on the hood, it would be really expensive to import my trucks there I'm sure.

How does one negotiate traffic there in a left hand steer vehicle? Is that anywhere near common?

Rob

boy your in for an interesting time!

are you heading to the west?

Hi Rob I put one on my truck it has a 12 speed i had to put a spacer with a gear on it to reach the gear inside the tranny.It was the six bolt side.The other side was 8 bolt but no room. Jook

hi, will check tranny today. i think it may have a spacer and be a bolt like Jook said, will confirm. the other truck has the pto bolted to engine balancer at front of truck. it was a water truck.

regards Grant

Thanks Terry; You are correct, the "pitch diameter" will be different of the driving gear on the 107 as opposed to a 1071 series. The basic PTO arrangement is the same and I plan to purchase a new input driven gear as acquiring the correct ratio in a used PTO assy. would not be my luck.

Rob

i may have one down under, but postage may kill it? is an 18speed quad the same for pto fitment? this one was used for a side tipper, so would imagine is heavy duty?

regards Grant