Mark T

Mech, this is the same dude with no torque rod. I mentioned the cracks cause I believe the truck's been used with loose u bolts. Couple questions about this one tha are unanswered, and the owner said he can't go in the work area to actually look. Kinda sucks that he's in this just trying to get his truck fixed.

where are you

Unless you have a buddy with those laying around, you're going to a dealer.

Truck definetely looks like it well worth fixing the right way, even if it is a little pricey.

From your one picture, the truck looks clean. Not likely they're shot, but ???? Springs are probably junk at this point. If you look at the hole for the center bolt when they're apart , check for little cracks from the hole going outwards. One of the effects of loose U bolts. All thesee little 16ths of an inch here and there add up.

If the boxes (buckets) are rotted they can be missing enough to not squeeze everything enough. Did anyone look at the round holes in the end of the springs ?

Sounds about right for the one it would require.

Look on the bright side, if the trunion bar is ok the most you're looking is new springs and saddles, new bolts and depending (?) maybe new buckets and isolators. Sometimes the springs hole gets egg shaped where the pin on the isolator goes. Making a trunion repair is the really expensive thing if that has to be addressed.

Not many places have a hydralic torque wrench of even more than a little 4 to 1 torque multiplier. Cuase they cost a fortune. Or ? if they don't have a pit to get a huge impact on them, then..... They gotta be tight.

The spring clip in the picture has loose U bolts. IDK what this "multimeter" is . Last I knew you'd use a torque multiplier. Anyway, they're loose and even after they're put in in the first place, they need to be retorqued shortly after that.

Lots of guys don't realize how tight those need to be. They're like 1600 ft/lbs. Then retorqued after a few miles in service.

Everything in those pictures from Paul were at one time state of the art . Impressive collection .

Those big 10.9 flange bolts and nuts. Like if it was made with it.

They came all different ways. 54" spread on camelbacks, rod on the back rear was common. I bet the truck he's asking about is one of those "county spec" trucks. Least that's what us guys around here call them. They were usually white with Ox bodies. Several of them come into the used truck marked on a regular basis. Hardly any miles and , no offence to anyone but they're cheaped out on in many ways to knock a couple thousand dollars off the price. They're actually pretty good low milage trucks. A little plain maybe. Usually well worth putting a few dollars into to upgrade a couple items here and there. Be a little tricky on this truck as it may require a reinforcement plate inside the frame channel or small plate on the outside. Well worth putting on it though in my opinion . Vinny's in NJ that's 80K. That truck very well have been made to haul 15 tons or so. 27......yeah, it's gonna get worn out pretty quick

All these clowns definitely have one goal. Proving that Albert Einstein's theory about the difference between genius and stupidity is correct.

Jojo.....you stop that 😠 that's what democracy looks like

I could be wrong, but I think a lot of those white dump trucks with the Ox bodies on them were made without torque rods. There were lots of places those trucks were cheaped out on. Most I saw up here looked like somebody glued a third axle on them to flip them as tri-axles. Then here in Pa @ 73000 pounds the rear suspension lasted about 2 weeks. Where ever they were from down south, as tandems they must not have carried much.

It almost looks like the bolts are loose.

NO that's your range cylinder. F's 13 he's talking about is under the cover on the top of the transmission and the bolt on the yolk is the one in front of the universal joint it'll be below your picture and it's like inch and five sixteenths

Yes. Often when they were misadjusted or not working right in general. Disconnecting the air would make the truck run better. All the time it's smoking like that, it's basically over fueling. (not the greatest idea) They used to take some trial and error to get them shimmed (adjusted) to a point where you had power and minimal smoke. I'd imagine it'll be hard finding parts for one of them now. Never know, might put air to it and it work like a swiss watch. Someone who'd ziptie it off like that likely was doing it from being told by someone it'd make the truck run better ????

Turbocharged Diesels have no vacuum. Or at least the certain times they do, it's not enough to matter. The reversing relay is part of the aneroid ( smoke control during turbo lag ) The reversing relay senses the manifold presure and meters the truck's air to the air cylinder on the injection pump that limits rack travel compared to manifold pressure. Some trucks will run better (and smoke a lot) with this system disabled. It's not a good idea though, as excessive fuel will wash cylinders down after a while. If the aneroid is working as it's intended to , it should run good and not bellow smoke out like crazy when lugging up from lower RPMs . Over the years there's been a couple different versions of this system, but they basically function the same way. Air goes from the parking brake valve to the reversing relay and enables the "puff limiting" With no air (parking brakes on) the rack is allowed to travel to full fuel position. This is a big help during cold starts as a cold engine requires a rich mixture to get started.

that is a reversing relay

They get studs and nuts in the carrier , don't they ? Then a couple bolts go down into the housing. That one's a easy one to fit a rod to. (carrier has holes) Won't bother that single frame one bit as long as all the correct grade bolts are used and tightened as they should be. ( your spring guy made a good suggestion )

My buddy has an old FLD with an M11 and a Super 10 . He mostly hauls insulation, that in that same range for mileage too. Even with more weight it's over 6 by a lot. Mack had the 11 liter thing figured out way before any of'm.

I believe at the time, engineeres felt there were gains in fuel mileage to be had staying in direct gear for a road tractor. So they gave it a little more power to hold on a bit longer without downshifting. Remember, stuff was simple then compared to now. Like a Super 10 was an early attempt at computer control shifting of the top 2 gears. The most reliable way (and cheapest) was in the shift between overdrive and direct. Sorta like a range change and didn't require fancy servo motors or super fast control moduals. So a little more power helped , but was programed in to encourage letting the truck do it's own thing to some degree. Some even used direct transmissions and a faster axle ratio so it'd lug back a little further with the cruise on. Usually these were on highway trucks in fleets and may not be grossed out to 80000 pounds at all times even. They were obsolete kinda fast as technology advanced quick not long after they came out. Let alone all the emission restrictions .