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Coenut

Bulldog
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Posts posted by Coenut

  1. I am in the process of converting this truck to a dual exhaust.  Cab is a solid mount non airside. I measure the vertical stack mounts from the inside frame flange out on both sides.  Both are at 26 to center. Tacked the dr side on and have to pass side clamped. The drivers side is 1 inch closer to the cab than the pass side.  The cab mount that rests on the bar at the bar is 1 inch closer to the inner edge of the vert bracket than the pass side.  The hood and cab line up great. Should I be concerned or just move it 1 inch to match pass side.

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  2. I do plan on doing a hundred or so spot welds.  I've seen the demonstrations and I'm not quite convinced enough to go ahead spend the cash on the epoxy and special gun when I have a welder on hand.  A friend used the 3m epoxy to attach a hood scoop on his pu.  Why he didn't use 3m double sided tape is beyond me but anyways the scoop wasn't on long.  Not to be mean but I'm glad it didn't hold, the scoop downright wrong.

  3. I'm getting ready to reskin the roof on my r model. My question is do I need to cross race the cab to keep it from twisting once the roof skin is removed.  The doors are off the truck so all that weight is removed.  I've done several hot rod chops and have always braced them but there seems to be quite a bit of structural steel around the doors connecting front and rear panels.

  4. Saw a guy with a load like that go around an on ramp a bit to fast and the load shifted so much they had to bring a forklift on another flatbed and restack it right on the ramp. He didn't make it 3 miles from the shipper.  Nice work shoring it up.

  5. The canister pictured is on a ntc 290 cummins truck. It has a site glass and hoses that t off into the heater hoses, then proceeding to a canister that I was told was a coolant heater. There is a hose currently disconnected. Do I actually need this canister and the coolant heater or can I eliminate them. Truck is only used for show.

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