Mackpro

Cam key swaps were only on early ETECH 1998.5 till around 2001. Beginning with the CCRS engine sometime in 2002 , all key ways are straight regardless of HP. But good on reminding us !

All AI engines internals are the same except the for turbo and injectors and download that determine horsepower ratings. I will have to find my AI horsepower charts to see the difference between 300 and 400 , sometimes the turbo has to be changed along with the injectiors .

What’s the T2 ( center of DPF temp sensor) temp running ? We like to see around 880 degrees. High temps in the upper 950-990 can kick out the regen momentarily and resume.

I had my buddy look up the part number and yes it is unavailable and no other dealerships show to have any in stock . The part number did crossover to a new Mack/Volvo part number but the description was listed as “Wiring Schematic “ and had a price of $650.

It is on the intake manifold on the drivers side of engine, between the middle to rear of manifold, it will have a round 3 wire plug

Yea , what happened? I loose my password to this place from time to time and sometimes take me a month or more to find it and log back in . But always like coming back here. Mack Technician did the homework and wasn’t afraid to swap parts around on the ASET engines to try to get them to run like they should.

It was a learning process for sure. I was thinking I could adjust the arm to where I wanted it and put the actuator back on and all would good, but the pressure inside the turbo would overpower the actuator and let the arm move. Also the actuator gear has no internal stop in either direction , so the gear will move in either direction somewhat freely.

I’ve seen lots of bad deletes on Macks , seems very few work out great. The last one was where a delete was done and a export model data file was installed in the engine ECM. This sounds like a great idea but the export models don’t have a VGT turbo, they have a standard turbo. The truck would barely build boost because the VGT turbo was not being command to move abs build . I had to remove the turbo actuator and manually move the arm on the turbo and test drive , if I went to far it would over boost and backfire through the air filter and derate. Once I got it figured out I built a wedge spacer and put it inside the turbo actuator to hold the arm in place . This was years ago and don’t remember the actual position of the arm .

The dealership I used to be at always used United Turbo and Fuel in Birmingham Alabama for any injection pump and injector work on pre-ETECH engines. We had better luck with them than Mack Reman and the local pump shops.

An AI 350 and 400 are the exact same engine. On a factory HP upgrade No hard parts to change, only download is different. Bumping to 427-460 then your talking turbo and injectors. Only the early Etech ( 1998.5 -2001) needed camshaft key way swap to go to bigger HP.

Truck returned tonight for me to install the new parts on . Truck was driven almost 800 miles pulling a loaded dump trailer .with the outlet NOX sensor sending unit unscrewed from the exhaust pipe and just zip tied up handing in fresh air. I plugged up tech tool to check codes and only one fault code . It was inactive and was for the outlet NoX sensor , the FMI was 7 I believe, unidentifiable failure. No derate or other warnings of any kind. Looks like the trick worked . Not sure if it will work on any of the 2013 emissions OBD trucks .

I got a 2011 non-OBD that’s needing a DEF doser and outlet NOX sensor. But I’m unable to do any work on it till Monday . I pulled the outlet NOX sensor out into clean air and cleared codes and did a learned data reset and turned it loose for a couple of short trips till I can get back on it Monday. Hopefully it will make it

Any word on removing the outlet NOX sensor to fresh air as a more permanent fix ?

The Horton HT650 is the ones I’m thinking about.. Only issues we had was not with the fan clutch itself but the air solinoid leaking and wearing out the friction disc in the clutch. We always installed a new air solinoid when replacing a fan clutch. Also , sometimes the fan clutch would not fit flush on the water pump and a shin was needed . If the shim was not used , the clutch would wobble and cause the water pump bearings to go out .

If you have the last 6 of the VIN I can do some digging for ya and see if there were any bulletins on the issue

All the RD’s that I have seen that came factory with a 460 had a Horton air fan, If it has a viscous fan on it might have been originally a lower HP engine then later upgraded to a 460. The RD radiator it barely big enough for the 460 HP

Mack/Volvo makes a gauge that checks the turbo stroke with the actuator removed. 90% of the time the turbo has to be replaced. We have seen actuators go bad or not calibrated but it usually throws a code. We did have a turbo not doing the full stroke and had our DPF cleaning guy come to the shop with some special machine that shot hydrogen ( or something similar) into the intake/air cleaner and cleaned the carbon out of the engine and turbo. I don’t know what this service is called but I saw it work in this case and we didn’t have to change the turbo.

Way to much boost . Probably turbo actuator is stuck in the full boost position. A guy around here has been doing crappy emission deletes. He’s using a “Export” engine file made for a eXport MP with no EGR and a non-VGT turbo. Then locking the actuator in the full boost position. On the MP8 it kinda works OK up to about 42-45 psi of boost . But the MP8 I worked on started back firing through the intake/air filter at about 46-48 psi of boost .

You can try the conical puller but it will probably break the cup off around the nozzle tip area. We have had the stainless cup tips break off in the head several times. We revert back to the old tap/threading tools of the copper cup days. On a couple of extreme cases we drove the tip through in to the cylinder area and pulled the exhaust manifold and dropped one of the exhaust valves down and blew air into injector hole and blew the piece out the exhaust . It worked the 2 times we tried

Clusters go bad a lot on the “Grey engine trucks” ( non-MP engine trucks). When the clusters go bad there should never be a de-rate issue. You can unplug the cluster and drive it with no performance loss. If the speedo sensor fails you can get engine de-rate if that parameter is turned on. I would first un-plug the low coolant sensor in the coolant reservoir and check the harness plug for coolant. If you have coolant in the harness plug then unplug the 2 connectors on the engine ECM. Coolant in this area can cause cluster data issues.

Sorry for the delay, I lost my log on and password info and finally found it to log on . I’ll try to answer your question asap

You truck is at the Step 12A level and that’s the way it came from the factory. Step 12 B download wouldn’t hurt it at all. I would start battery and ground connections . Start at the battery, then starter and aux starter solenoid and ground breaker on the fire wall next to the wiper motor, this is where power and ground come into the cab. Then pull the kick panel down in front of the passenger seat , carefully go over all the wiring going to the VECU and ABS ECM’s. Spend no less than 15 min looking at this area. Look for the paint rubbed off the firewall and kick panel where the wires lay against it . Very common to have bare wires shorting there that won’t set a fault code. Then carefully pull the 2 engine ECM connectors and look for coolant or oil and corrosion from leaking sensors . Also check for broken baffles in the muffler that can randomly clog the exhaust flow. Lastly , if the engine has a powerleash engine brake, pull the valve covers abs check the rocker arm hold down bolts and make sure none are broken . There is a service bulletin that’s posted here somewhere that discusses this , it leads to broken rocker arm shafts that actually lets oil into the engine brake oil passages and causes the brake to come on randomly. That’s all I can think of for now

In out fleet of 25 trucks , all are 2013 or newer CXU’s or Anthems and all have T-310 trans and Mack rears . To be honest, every one of our Mack transmissions have been back to the dealership ( except the newest ones ) al least once and most twice. All having synchronizer problems. 25% of the problem is driver abuse/ improper range shifting. The other 75% are loose range shift fork set screws or loose rear yoke bolts . Years ago Mack used safety wire on the fork set screws , if they started doing that again it would help out a lot . And if they would use red Loctite or redesign the yoke bolt it would save a lot of down time. The M-Drive automatic would work great in our live haul trucks. Our feed trucks need multiple PTO pumps and massive plumbing to the trailer. We have looked into the M-Drive and I just don’t think the room is there to rig up all our crap. Sadly we have no say in ordering our trucks . Our corporate sends us what they think we need.

Behind the kick panel in front of the passenger seat . 4 screws at top and 2 at the bottom next to the floor. Should be a ABS module next to it as well

A buddy at my old dealership sent me a screenshot of someone at Mack at Hagerstown. It’s states that the last Mack manual transmission rolled of the assembly line today. I’ll try to add the screenshot as soon as possible,