Brandt

I'm running 11R 22.5 tires and with the spoke hubs a switch to 24.5 is as cost effective as regearing. The engine is an EM7 which peak torque is at 1050 and peak HP at 1710rpm. I'm also running a 1070 12 spd, so with the 2 deep reduction gears, I think I would be OK with 3.87's. However I do think 4.17's are ideal. Are all the Mack gear sets interchangable?? Or do I have to get gears from a set of axles that have the same weight rating and model.

I have 4.42's in my truck and am looking for a bit lower rpm at highway speeds. Is it cheaper to find the diffs with the gears I want (4.17 or 3.86) or to buy an entire rear clip?? I have cammelback suspension and want to keep it. I also have spoke hubs and they could stay or go. It would be nice if I could find a set of diffs with lockers, as I spend a good bit of time off road. I don't know what my current axles have for weight rating, but everything on this truck is built heavy. The build sheet says I have CRDPC92 and CRD93 axle assy.

Looks like #1 read 97*, and #3 read 106*. The rest were at 197-210*, while warming up. The old Detroits could get more HP with bigger injectors, can the same be true for 4 stroke Macks?? I'd like to get more HP from this engine and will eventually be getting a larger turbo also. What injector # should I look for?? Is this something an average wrech turner (me) can do, or do I have to get everything calibrated to each other?

In the morning my truck runs rough and is now starting to backfire. It may have always had a slight backfire, but I notice it more now running straight pipe. This happens between 1200 and 1650rpm when the temp gauge is below 155*. It will spitter and have reduced power. It also blows a lot of smoke (bluish white). From 156* to 180* there is an improvement, then at 180* all is good. If I keep the rpm's up above 1650 the truck runs OK, except in top gear then she falls on her face. Is this typical for a cold engine or is something amiss?? '91 RD 690 EM7 300 HP 1070B 12 spd trans (.78 OD)

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I only cap MY casing. I don't know how somebody else took care of their tires so I don't trust somebody else's casing. That being said, I don't buy china anymore. The rubber composition does not lend itself to long life. The side walls weather check quickly and even in between the lugs will check. Usually you will get full life out of the casing, but I wouldn't cap a china tire and expect to get full tread life out of it before it blew. The last set I bought were Yokohoma's and I am very happy with them. I run my drives at 105 and the steers at 110, so I know the casings are well taken care of. I also get mine capped from a reputable capper. I have a local guy that I like, but if I'm on the road I find a Goddyear dealer.

If you run 11R-22.5 tires on the 10" hubs and 285/75/24.5 on the 11" hubs, you'll be OK. The Low-Pro 24.5" tires are the same saize as the tall 22.5" tires.

I have a TRTXL1070B (12 spd) with the air switch on the dash. My set up allows you to use the dash switch to go into deep reduction. With this switch engaged the stick stays in the "first" gear position. I can air shift the stick to 2nd, then throw the dash switch and airshft the stick back to normal "first" if I need to. Usually I just go from Deep reduction 2nd to normal second gear. I'm sure there is correct terminology for what I am saying - I just don't know it!!

Looking at regearing and getting away from the spoke hubs. Found a cut-off set in a salvage yard today for $2500. They are from a 2003 Mack (mdl unkn) and have a 3.94 gearing, hub pilot. I like the idea of a smoother ride but will the air ride be stable enough and durable enough for a 12 yd dump truck?? Having just changed the air springs on my Western Star - they are 1000% easier than changing a leaf or leaf pack on a camelback. I am thinking of putting the air ride set up under a '91 RD 690 that currently has camelback. The spec sheet calls my axles SS440C and the carrier CRDPC92/CRD93. Does this mean they are 44K axles?? They are 4.42 gears.

Ken tools also makes a 54" bar like the one linked to above. I find the 54" bar takes less energy to use and for a old kodger like me, I'll take all the help I can get. The flat spoon irons work well too but you need 1 of the above and 2 flat spoons, then nothing is impossible. The vaseline type lube works better than the dish soap type lube.

My DD Series 60 says I am getting 7.46 mpg. If I put pencil to paper I am getting 6.78. I'm gonna try fuel gauges on Lets Truck, but don't believe your ECM. My IFTA report is more accurate.

No dog in this hunt, but saw them in a flyer that I get. http://www.auctiontime.com/OnlineAuctions/Details.aspx?LP=trk&lot=3727&ltf=attachment

No problem yet. It came on a dolly that I bought. I plan on pulling a pup with it and wanted to know how to adjust it before I went to pick up the pup. I'd hate to travel the 400 miles to the pup location and find out it doesn't lock up or is adjusted too tight. As long as it works, I'll keep it, until it doesn't. At that point, parts may be impossible to find and I will replace it w/ one from a salvage yard.

The Holland rep came back and said that it is a Dayton Walther fifth wheel. Apparently Fontaine owned the name in 1987 and Holland sometime after that. I think parts support is pretty thin right now - except in Europe where they seem popular. They also seem popular with the US Military. Of course the gov't would buy them - overpriced and no parts support (or very expensive part support)!!

I contacted both Holland and Fontaine. Turns out it is a Holland with no adjustment. The rep is checking for rebuild parts.

The tag just states the S/N By the bolt on the front, are you saying the rod that sticks out of the front?? I'll look again, but I didn't see any threads on it. I was thinking tha adjustment was the bolt just in front of the crotch. But then there is another bolt at about 2 o'clock from the crotch??

Can anybody tell me the Make (model too) and how to adjust this fifth wheel??

I'm running 22.5" spokes. Rims and hubs will get expensive. I have 22.5 tires on my Western Star and trailer. I would rather stay with one tire size.

Thanx. I'll be home in a week, I'll check all of the above.

I have 4.42's w 11R 22.5 tires. I run 1875rpm at 65mph. I have a .78 OD I'd like to re-gear to run 1500 at 65mph

A DOT inspector probably thinks that you need them

Randomly my high beams shut off and leave me in the dark. The time that they work and the time that they are off varries from 30 seconds to 4 minutes. They even shut off on smooth roads and while sitting still. Is there a relay that could be overheating and tripping open?? If so, where would this relay be located? Anything else I should look for??