Brandt

There is only 225K miles and 12K hours on this truck. It was a county plow truck and seems to have a lot of idle hours. I do have to remind myself that it is not a Series 60 and won't go for a million. The build sheet shows: EM7-300L-4VH 1425 lbs-ft TRTXL1070B - 12 spd w/.78 OD CRDPC92 & CRD93 diffs with SS440C axles I would much prefer 4.17 gears, but I don't think I'll ever recoup the cost in fuel savings. With Dayton hubs, I'm kinda stuck with 11R-22.5 tires

OK, 400 is out of reach. I am not familiar with the differences between the Maxi, Econo, Thermo power curves. I can live with 350. I'm just wanting to gain as much as I "reasonably" can due to the increase in weight that I will be pulling. I have a 12 spd behind it with 4.42 gears. I think the 12 psd is a 1050TX???

I have a '91 EM7 300 Maxidyne that has 2 or maybe 3 failing injectors. This was a transitional year and it is all mechanical except for the elec fuel pump. I was told that I could upgrade the injectors and turbo (at the same time) and possibly achieve 400 HP. I have lost contact with this source, but am ready to do the upgrade. Where do I find out what part numbers I need for the inj and what model turbo. The truck works at 4900'-5900' elev and I plan on adding a pup to it. Gross will be around 88-91K depending on how long my pup tongue is.

OK, Thanx

What is the difference when an axle is called a "pusher" or a "tag". I'm wanting to put one in FRONT of my drive axles. I need steerable and a drop axle to clear the drive shaft.

You have every right to choose not to own/carry a gun. However living in America, you will reap the rewards of those who do choose to own/carry them.

Amazing how we say this is "federal" land. It is NOT federal land, it is PUBLIC land the the citizenry has tasked the feds to maintain. Until we stop saying that it is federal land (when it is actually the tax payer's land) we can expect a power grab by the feds every time!!

I have the PDLO switch for my CRD92/93 axles. I was wanting a left to right lock, but it looks like I'd have to get a set of cut-offs.

Thanx guys. I'll get them hooked up on separate switches. Good point on - if conditions are good for 25 MPH, then I shouldn't need lockers. I've heard about the "peanuts" in the Mack diffs, but can't find a whole lot of detailed info.

I just replaced both of my Eaton diffs with "lockers". Now I need to hook up air and learn how to use them. What are the do's and don'ts on using a diff lock (as it relates to Eaton rears). 1) can I engage while moving? (in a straight direction) 2) Can I engage at any speed?? 3) If I have just 1 diff locked, can I turn?? 4) what will shorten the life of the locker? Any tips on how to plumb these in would be appreciated. I have been told to run one air line and lock them in together. I have been told to tie the front diff in with the inter-axle lock. I have been told to run 2 separate air lines to allow me to engage the front OR the rear OR both locker(s). I have been told to tie both lockers into the inter-axle lock and when I though the switch - everything is locked! PS Can I get a similar set up for Mack top load diffs?

I have 5 gal of each oil. The diffs call for 3.5 gal. each. I am reconitioning them now (new bearings and such - same gears). I run in colder climates but am always 70K-86K and only run in the Rockies.

Eaton calls for 75w-90 oil in my diffs. Would it be a sin to run 75w-90 Amsoil in one and 75w-140 Amsoil in the other?

I am not familiar with the DDEC 2 strokes. However on a 60 Series I would suspect the fuel pedal. Is your fuel pedal electronic??

I would be removing a TRTXL to install this T2180. I got 2 quotes; one at $6500 and one "starting" at $5000, to rebuild this one. I haven't called the Mack dealer to see what a reman is usiing this core. I don't put many miles on this truck in a years time. However I would like to pull a pup behind it and adding weight I sure would like the 18 spd. I have and Eaton 13 spd in my road tractor, that has 1.1 mil on it. I bought a RTLO18913 at a salvage yard (as a core) for $2000. It is currently being rebuilt now and I will swap them out sometime in Oct. All total I will have $5500 into it, but will have a spare, working (but worn) 13 spd. If I do the same with the Mack, I will have $6700 into it and a spare, working 12 spd. What is the value of a used TRTXL 1070B 12 spd w/ 240K miles on it???

How much more are these to rebuild, than an Eaton? An Eaton core is $1500, I can get the Mack core for $200.

Looks like the "B" means a faster reverse. I wonder if the standard reverse gears can be put in it during a rebuild?

Thanx for the replies. I was told it was a 13 spd, but it looks like an 18 spd, by model #. It is being sold as a rebuildable core. Am I looking at $3500 to have it rebuilt? Or are Mack transmissions more that Eatons to rebuild? I'm thinking of putting this in a dump truck - good idea or not?? I don't mind the slow reverse.

What can I be told about these transmissions? Are they reliable? Easy to rebuild?? Max torque it can handle. What is the first gera ratio? What is the top gear ratio?

Duh!! Senior moment ;-) It does say SS440C - guessing that means 44K rears

Somewhere I got the idea that they were 43K or 46K axles. I don't know where I got that info from. How do I tell w/o tearing them apart and measuring bearings?

Are the 315s ran as duals or are they singled up?? Finding rims for singled up Daytons might be difficult. Can any one tell me more about the CRDPC92 and CRD93 axle assy?

How much weight do they run on that single screw?? I can see maintenance in the future! Do they need the short wheel base for tighter turns?

I looked into them last summer (before I bought a set of 8 11Rs). I ran into a few hurdles that I couldn't seem to overcome. I don't know if a 315/80/22.5 will work in a "dual" position or not.

I'm running 11R 22.5 tires and with the spoke hubs a switch to 24.5 is as cost effective as regearing. The engine is an EM7 which peak torque is at 1050 and peak HP at 1710rpm. I'm also running a 1070 12 spd, so with the 2 deep reduction gears, I think I would be OK with 3.87's. However I do think 4.17's are ideal. Are all the Mack gear sets interchangable?? Or do I have to get gears from a set of axles that have the same weight rating and model.

I have 4.42's in my truck and am looking for a bit lower rpm at highway speeds. Is it cheaper to find the diffs with the gears I want (4.17 or 3.86) or to buy an entire rear clip?? I have cammelback suspension and want to keep it. I also have spoke hubs and they could stay or go. It would be nice if I could find a set of diffs with lockers, as I spend a good bit of time off road. I don't know what my current axles have for weight rating, but everything on this truck is built heavy. The build sheet says I have CRDPC92 and CRD93 axle assy.