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The goal is to deliver enough pressure to lift the delivery valves not sure of the pressure Joey! It’s abit time consuming as you need to cap off the return lines !

That is called flow timing and is the optimal way to time it it flows till it stops that is port closing ready to inject! if you don’t got stuff to work with the above is the next best option!

All you need is a 5/8 box end and 11/8 box end to set the valves! don't waste money on the the tool even if you can find one! This is the method used to find it! If you think you have a head gasket leak or exhaust leak set the valves up this should help clean up the smoke issue then fix the dyna tard or ring or solenoid ( Note you have one old style and one new style solenoid) the old one is the leaky one! ( Also check to see if that sol is tight ) they can come loose! put the valve covers on ! start the engine while its still coolish run a garden hose around the area you suspect the leak is when you reach the the bad spot the sound will go away or change! Have seen these H G leak between the heads on occasion!

Yes! this here is a get by ! if you don't got the tool Joey has there! Remove the plug in front of the throttle and below the stop that's where the timing tool fits turn the engine to where its to be timed to example 17 or 19 there should be what looks like a flat blade screw driver DEAD CENTER in that hole! If its not there or not centered is either on number six or its out of time! Set it so the spade is centered in the hole remove the front cover and loosen the 4 bolts on the slotted gear turn the engine to on mark you want to time it to confirm the slot has not moved after you move the engine on its timing mark tighten the bolts and try it see if you have achieved your goal engine timing is usually marked on the valve cover and the marks are on the flywheel center bottom! and note if you have a 5.9 Cummins with this pump on it the set is very similar. Also note that We have run into a situation where by the spade has slipped on the pump cam ! this becomes a little bit of a pain but can be over come by a different method so for now go with the spade in the hole method! and advance the timing two or three degrees at a time! A bit time consuming But doable!

If you can post some pictures of what your setting to! damper and pointer! Im gathering the pointer is missing! also number 1 and 6 are sister cyl if six is rocking your checking set on one! if two is rocking you are setting 5 and so on in firing order! Im leaning toward a lifter failure Pull the pan to check this ! however I have seen the engine brake slaves fail on these and wear in on one cyl ! I will also note that a lifter failure is ( usually) accompanied by a popping sound in the intake! air cleaner!

A lot of times the pump manufacturer removes these torque rods to the frame to make room for the syringe rams the rear one is usually in the way! Specially on the mack diffs! The only real way to correct this with Camel back or hard tail walking beams is to be sure you have the steel side blocks in the buffalo pad boxes! Its a dammed if you do dammed if you don't situation! Their only other solution is to move the pump back on the frame which will throw of the weight distribution of the rig Also If the unit has Greased trunnions the unit should be jacked up when being serviced ! Quite honestly a pump unit is ideal to do this it has legs! Lift the unit off the ground and Grease it it will last a log time if you treat it right! Additionally you need to keep an eye on the u bolts keep em tight! The problem with a pump truck is it is eternally loaded ! No rest for the wicked!

I think you will find that your turbo is fubar ! Regardless of its age! we had run into this on many occasions ! when warm / hot Pressure builds up on the exhaust side of the turbo under load and moves down the turbo shaft to the drain tube causing base pressure! But another question ! have you been backing up hill alot ! if so there is a kit to move the breather to the valve cover for cases like this happened a lot with mixer trucks and some dump apps when working on adverse! just sayin!

Joe is correct I know this is a toy or play truck but if you were able to be under the hood while a truck is under load you would be surprised how much an engine moves around specially pulling big weight!

Think as stainless flex and two band clamps job done! Just leave a foot of flex space or it will break the flex!

It’s likly a 375! If it was a 325 it would likly have a six speed Trans!

We made a special cap off tool for the turbo to pressure up the whole intake system it’s time consuming however worthwhile if your chasing intake and exhaust leaks!

Fat ass 😂

oil in there is not unusual it could be coming from the compressor ! The concern is the blades are they chipped!? The charge air is the cooler in front of the rad check it for cracks along the weld at the rh top corner where it comes off the turbo! they some time s split there check all the hoses for splits and broken clamps! make sure the elbow at the top of the inlet manifold is tight and hasn't come loose! look for indications of soot anywhere on the inlet side! something when thru that exhaust side !did it also go thru the inlet or did it come from the engine it self? that is the question!

yup I'd be concerned with that situation there! Something has gone thru there and the snail is heating as Joey mentioned check the after cooler and the charge air system for leaks! Its starving for air ! how does the inlet wheel look? The chips that came off that wheel are melted to the housing! The hot side housing being blue is not a good sign!

Are they still selling MP 10 there Paul?

Agree with the filter thing too! Also did you check pressure after the pump change did it come up to spec?

Did you check with Mack ! They sometimes have these in the recon section the part number with start with an X! IF you can find the right parts guy! And you got a BIG BAG of Money!

My perception of it is! Its the racing mentality that comes out in most every teenager and some never let it go! The Spirit of Competition ! Pride! Specially when you believe in something ! Face it the only Power most of us will ever experience is that that we can buy, build or create our selves ! We can pretend to vote for it but it is only an illusion and rarely turns out the way we perceive it!😪

So did you nail it?

Reverse is on the air switch! Low low can be operated only in 1st gear! un less its been modified other wise!

Yup ! Agree whole heartedly on that statement! As rough as it is it’s way easier than a muck stick!

So after playing for a few hours and talking to a friend x customer who had owned one of these ! he is thinking ! Someone has tampered with the pressure on the main system to make up for lack of flow they jacked up the pressure in hopes of making things better how ever you gain at one end loose on the other!😪

Yup 15 is too low! You need to be at least 20 full load! You also need to be sure the tank is vented and have no bad lines prior to the pump ! Any restrictions prior to the pump will cause what you got there! The spring in the return T there could be weak or broken also take it apart and look before condemning the pump!

As Paul mentioned Pull the pan check the Cam and lifter on that cyl! There maybe an under lying problem! Before going off half cocked looking for a head! That said I beleive a 237 head will work But not positive on that!

There is no timing advance on what you have how ever you can check and set the timing! Just wondering is the engine equipped with dyna tard? hard to see there! If so pull the engine brake relay or disconect at the head and see if this changes your issue! I see two pictures here one with a jake switch replacing the original pump cover swiTch ! Is the clean one the engine you are using now??? I think you have a dynatard switching issue here! It will make the engine brake apply in a light load application if left on and not set correctly ! ! Disconnect at the head to be sure! a rubbed wire to ground will set the thing off! If the stumble goes away you have your culprit! NOTE If your using the built in switch on the pump theres a specific way to set its a bit tough to explain but will try if you confirm what your up too there! My opinion!