fjh

If you tried to pull a load like that here in bc on some of the hills we  have here there would be differential parts and Trans parts littering the hyw! 

It would be good to check  with them we have had a couple of these slip thru the pin campian cracks  it happens on MP ten as well, ( No campaign on these) if you have a clattering sound coming from your engine or your compressor comes loose you better ask why! or you may be out 20-30 grand. depending how catastrophic !

Thanks for the replys men To the front it will be then Don't see as it matters how ever I would feel more at eezz having the logo to the missing arrow direction  just cause. the PAI dudes teck Guy said it didn't matter but it will look like I was paying attention if they are all one direction and not all over the place!

21 hours ago, sprtkr1 said:

Well finally got the problem fixed. Congratulations to fjh and steeler. You were right. Even though I didn't want to believe it, it turned out that the number 4 injector was galled and cracked. Also had damaged the injector cup, so had all 6 cups replaced again even though they were replaced about a year ago. This thing has been nothing but a money pit literally since the day I drove it home. But for now it is starting real good. Thanx for everyone's input.

Yup don't thank us thank Volvo for giving you a place to put your money every year!

When you installed the plugs did you install them with locktight ? You cant just pop them back in and expect them to stay!

As for threading them I have never had them fall out twice, but i imagine it would work !

If it happens again install clean and dri with lock tight!

Thanks

The logo on these pistons  are at  ( appox )  the  3:30 position One would think that would indicate front if it means anything at all!

It's been years since I've built V8. This is A PAI engine kit, Real nice looking kit! The engine packed up #1 rod bearing caught it just in time the rod journal got away with just a polish!

Your Hired! 

Yup thats worth a try That will at least nail it down to a hole If the smoke dont go away after that  u may very well have an ECU issue !

Also if you can, check the ambient air temp if you have a means ,we once had issues with sensor readings coming from that sensor which put the engine in a retarded timing at certain temps! its a long shot but something else to try! un plug the sensor see if the problem clears up!

Guys, I am rebuilding an E9 and the manual claims there is an arrow on the piston indicating front, the new pistons have nothing other than a Mack logo stamped in them on one side ! Is there a front and back or has this become  irrelevant  As the bowl is central ? The old pistons were the same how ever I neglected to pay attention when I disassembled where the logo faced! if it even maters !?? Any comments welcome!

Nothing wrong with that as long is the preassure is not droping off when you rev!

Is it still smoking with the gauge in? when you rev it up does the pressure drop off that is the whole point of this exercise! If not your looking in the wrong place!The preasure should drop a tad then jump up with a good stomp on the trottle! 

Yup great design features!

Heres somthing you might try ! Re set the cam thrust screw on the front cover run the screw right in and back it out  a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock it see if that helps the situation !

On 9/30/2016 at 5:29 AM, TeamsterGrrrl said:

I think a lot of this trend comes from Volvo's desire to build the cheapest truck possible- It's a lot cheaper to build a transmission with just one countershaft. Same with the axles- cheaper to buy in axles from who knows where rather than build 20,000 or so a year for Mack exclusively. Today's fleet truck buyers aren't helping matters any either, they write a truck off for tax purposes in 5 years or less, and if the Volvos they buy have lousy resale, that's just more depreciation for them to offset taxes on profits with.

In some ways I believe  your correct How ever!  the I shift trans seems to be standing up (so far), How ever this is not going to help those of us that still like to have a little control over the driving of the vehicle specially in the vocational market, getting stuck in mud Snow situations and the like where a guy needs to have some manual control of the situation you will now have to call for a tow . have your cell phone set on speed dial for you favorite tow company! Thank the EPA for this one Again  As KS mentioned this is the next Thing to take a hit in the name of emissions!

As for the resale value ALL the manufactures are in the same boat A five year old truck now is at the VERY end of its useful life due to all the emissions  Bolt ons, No one can afford to fix the stuff! Especially The owner opp types! This stuff is Horribly wasteful If you look at the big picture its not very environmentally Friendly at all!    

Save The environment at one end Screw it up at the other end!

1 hour ago, jmahoneclipse said:

i have a 08 Mack GU813 and it started missing on cyl 1,2, & 3 randomly. if you shut the truck of it may start running fine and then if you shut it off and re start it, it will start missing on all 3 CYL again. ive already removed the valve cover and checked all the plugs on the injectors and i found no damage at all. not sure where to go next with this.

Check @ your ECU plug for oil!

Simply touch a power wire to the pass thrus on the out side of the head if the sols activate then check the rocker shafts for the plugs as Glenn has mentioned they have been known to pop out!

Note I ussually grab power from the start relay as it is close by!

9 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

I wish that i had a dime for all hoses that i have found in my life that was new but has a flapper over one end so dont forget that.I always said that if you have 28 to 30 psi under load you will get full power.On any engine i dont want the pressure to drop at full thottle unload more than 5 psi over a no load condishion.

Agree with that statement Glenn!  15  is min I want to see wound up I like 25-30 If ya  have to disassemble the drain back valve and stretch the spring! 

NO

should start unless you pulled it in with the bolts it should be in time enough to run! Ambac pump correct!

Yup good point !

Check this post as to where to take the preasure  from

6 hours ago, 39 Baby Mack said:

Isn't there also a difference in the camshaft between the two engines?

Ron

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

yup the engine would run fine with all the stuff he wants to do with that cam how ever the huge  bag of money you would spend to get there ain't worth it!

You don't want to go there huge under taking The ECU and wiring are different!  Nightmare! You will create mor problems than you will solve!

Start with the fuel return  check valve just behind the turbo drain tube that may correct your issue its relatively cheap!

no 500!       375.    An E9  swap project is doable  !    Motor mounts are doable  but not identical  I believe you'll have to mod the front mount!  the rad and after cooler is the big mod because of the hood!

6 hours ago, Jmackaecker said:

Alright Ill Have and update tomorrow. thanks a lot for leading me in the right direction.

 

When  u post post the color of the smoke black white blu al of these are indicators

Disconect the wire that comes  to the head from the firewall then determine if you got power on that wire if so you have a short remove the wires one at a time from each head till you find which one or ones are shorted remove that valve cover/s and determine what is shorted!