fjh

Heres somthing you might try ! Re set the cam thrust screw on the front cover run the screw right in and back it out  a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock it see if that helps the situation !

On 9/30/2016 at 5:29 AM, TeamsterGrrrl said:

I think a lot of this trend comes from Volvo's desire to build the cheapest truck possible- It's a lot cheaper to build a transmission with just one countershaft. Same with the axles- cheaper to buy in axles from who knows where rather than build 20,000 or so a year for Mack exclusively. Today's fleet truck buyers aren't helping matters any either, they write a truck off for tax purposes in 5 years or less, and if the Volvos they buy have lousy resale, that's just more depreciation for them to offset taxes on profits with.

In some ways I believe  your correct How ever!  the I shift trans seems to be standing up (so far), How ever this is not going to help those of us that still like to have a little control over the driving of the vehicle specially in the vocational market, getting stuck in mud Snow situations and the like where a guy needs to have some manual control of the situation you will now have to call for a tow . have your cell phone set on speed dial for you favorite tow company! Thank the EPA for this one Again  As KS mentioned this is the next Thing to take a hit in the name of emissions!

As for the resale value ALL the manufactures are in the same boat A five year old truck now is at the VERY end of its useful life due to all the emissions  Bolt ons, No one can afford to fix the stuff! Especially The owner opp types! This stuff is Horribly wasteful If you look at the big picture its not very environmentally Friendly at all!    

Save The environment at one end Screw it up at the other end!

1 hour ago, jmahoneclipse said:

i have a 08 Mack GU813 and it started missing on cyl 1,2, & 3 randomly. if you shut the truck of it may start running fine and then if you shut it off and re start it, it will start missing on all 3 CYL again. ive already removed the valve cover and checked all the plugs on the injectors and i found no damage at all. not sure where to go next with this.

Check @ your ECU plug for oil!

Simply touch a power wire to the pass thrus on the out side of the head if the sols activate then check the rocker shafts for the plugs as Glenn has mentioned they have been known to pop out!

Note I ussually grab power from the start relay as it is close by!

9 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

I wish that i had a dime for all hoses that i have found in my life that was new but has a flapper over one end so dont forget that.I always said that if you have 28 to 30 psi under load you will get full power.On any engine i dont want the pressure to drop at full thottle unload more than 5 psi over a no load condishion.

Agree with that statement Glenn!  15  is min I want to see wound up I like 25-30 If ya  have to disassemble the drain back valve and stretch the spring! 

NO

should start unless you pulled it in with the bolts it should be in time enough to run! Ambac pump correct!

Yup good point !

Check this post as to where to take the preasure  from

6 hours ago, 39 Baby Mack said:

Isn't there also a difference in the camshaft between the two engines?

Ron

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

yup the engine would run fine with all the stuff he wants to do with that cam how ever the huge  bag of money you would spend to get there ain't worth it!

You don't want to go there huge under taking The ECU and wiring are different!  Nightmare! You will create mor problems than you will solve!

Start with the fuel return  check valve just behind the turbo drain tube that may correct your issue its relatively cheap!

no 500!       375.    An E9  swap project is doable  !    Motor mounts are doable  but not identical  I believe you'll have to mod the front mount!  the rad and after cooler is the big mod because of the hood!

6 hours ago, Jmackaecker said:

Alright Ill Have and update tomorrow. thanks a lot for leading me in the right direction.

 

When  u post post the color of the smoke black white blu al of these are indicators

Disconect the wire that comes  to the head from the firewall then determine if you got power on that wire if so you have a short remove the wires one at a time from each head till you find which one or ones are shorted remove that valve cover/s and determine what is shorted!

Check the tank Vent ! ? I  Had a plugged  vent  recently, chased it for hours! cheap and easy if you check first instead of after you change the expensive stuff! 

Disconnect the torque limit switch on the trans shift cyl at the rear of the trans just above the out put yoke?

just something to try!

Check the eecu plug for coolant wicking also don't rule out the relays tucked in behind the dash rh side of the former glove box location. Seen them fail try swapping one or two.

5 hours ago, BGarofalo said:

As a side note I always like to do both heads on each bank at the same time. So do both heads at 100,170, 220 in their respective patterns instead of running one head complete and then the next.  I find when it comes time for re-torquing them they take nothing with this method. 

Way faster as well 

passenger side  No1 ( forward cyl ) left     8765                  looking down                                                                                                                                                   right                        4321   

 order 15486372

14 minutes ago, gearhead204 said:

when on 1-6 did you check to see if the rocker arms on #1 were loose and # 6 tight ? or in overlap (exhaust closing intake opening) also when rotating the engine over did you go in the direction of normal crank shaft rotation? (I've seen guys go either the wrong way or over shoot the timing mark and back the engine up (against normal rotation) the backlash in the timing gears will cause the pump timing to be too far off and cause either a no fire or a very smoky  low power  performing engine. if you had the engine on #6 instead of #1 the pump timing is 180 degrees out and the engine will only roll white smoke but will fire on either.   

Amen 

Bro you need to follow the above advice!

Pull the front valve cover and look! get slack on both valves then you know your on number 1! then roll it back a ways then come back up in engine rotation to your target 5 Degrees the spade needs to be DEAD CENTER in the hole on the pump in should start and run but will be SMOKEY as soon as the oil pressure comes up the timing should advance to around 12 degrees If it doesn't clean up there is  something wrong with the timing advance! 

Work in an x pattern from the center to the out side   first torque 100  second 170   final  220    firing order  1548--                                                                                                                                                                                                                   6372

Valve set

24 exhaust

intake 16

The markes are on the damper  pointer is on the passenger side behand the ac pump if it has ac.

Valve yoke screw down till the screw touches then two flats  and lock it!

What test equipment are they using?  

On 9/18/2016 at 8:39 AM, bbigrig said:

Because the passenger side of the MP/D series engine wasn't enough to go wrong already.  
I can't wait to see how they shoe horned that compound junk into the passenger side of the Mack frame rail under the hood.

Theres room there ! just use your imagination !   Magic!

1

Most noticable The e 7 head has guide studs for both the valve yokes the ac does not There are other more subtle changes as well  that is the main one

Where are you located?

theres no good reason why that engine wouldn't past emissions  a new after cooler and a turbo and a clean air. Filter and maybe a set of injectors at most somthing fishy unless the wrong cam has been installed.

On September 14, 2016 at 3:06 AM, james j neiweem said:

Doesn't make sense that they would use 3 UI's and 3 common rails injectors. Sounds like a test project using the customers as guinae pigs.

Yup