dds92780

Okay so i have been wanting/needing new exhaust for my truck. I wanted to get a shiny 5 in 6 out muffler from iowa 80 but i could not figure out how to get it from the flexpipe to the muffler when i have 4 inch pipe. Sure i could of probably got reducers and expanders to go from 4 inch to 5 inch but the stock exhaust pipe just before the muffler is tucked nicely in between the hydraulic hoses making it impossible to fit a 5 inch pipe for an RD. So what did i do? Well first i called mack and wanted to even see if i could get a shiny stock pipe . It would of been 800 dollars IF it was even available anymore. So i ended up getting the stock pipe for 479 dollars I then got another stock muffler made by donaldson that is high flow 51 inches 4 in 5 out. Paid 170 dollars I then took my muffler and my pipe over to cpc powdercoating in crest hill to get ceramic powder coated so that i would have a shiny piece that i can polish if i want. its not quite the same as chrome or stainless steel but i had no choice or experience how to get a nice 5 inch inlet and 6 inch outlet so i stuck with the stuff i ordered. It took about a month to get it done but 100 dollars later i ended up with the pictures you see below. the muffler is coated but has a clear coat on it so its not SUPER shiny but looks way better than the stock galvanized color others get. yes chrome would look better but i guess this isnt bad. I also ended up painting my brackets gloss black since i couldnt get shiny brackets either. Damn old mack stuff lol you gotta improvise!!! What do you think???

Let me elaborate more. I went and drove the truck and at first i didnt really care for the transmission. I thought it was the transmission but it was really just the stupid electronics. I couldnt feather the throttle like i do in my mechanical. I know the ch would take getting used to but my r model was far superior. He had a nicer interior. He had carpet and I DO like the material they use on the doors and headliner. It does look kinda neat. We were driving bobtail and i got into overdrive and was watching the manfiold pressure and it only got up to 30 . I get 40 pounds by 1200 if i want. I have seen 43 at 1400 before. I try not to though because i don't like adding that much boost at a low rpm. The truck just didnt seem nearly as quick as mine even bob tailing. His speedo was broke, the oil pressure gauge was broke, I did like the air ride suspension though even when i sat in the passenger seat and let him drive , the truck did not beat me up. I really think you can't beat a truck that is fully mechanical!!! I'll take my eaton 9 speed over his mack 13 speed too. Mine is just waaaaay smoother to drive He had rust on the frame and by the air bags. Just looks neglected. So will i be happy to keep my r model now? YOU BET YOUR ASS!

Thanks for all the comments guys. So i went and drove the ch today. Thank god i have an R model!!!

Thanks hatcity. I was just thinking about that. His truck has been sitting for a year so i would still need to register and get plates. I am TERRIBLE with paperwork and phone calls lol It is so true about knowing what you have. Even though someone has done work to a truck it still might take another 5k just to get it to your standards. Been there done that I'll keep my rough riding R model for awhile longer i guess Would this even be an upgrade??? http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4999247879.html Or even this?? http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4998841889.html Its auto!!! but will there be problems with emmisions crap and computer crap?? Would it even get better mpg than my truck and by how much?

But does the interior look like this??? I have no issues with my heat , The ac is ice cold since i moved the thermostat up higher to trick it. My doors are not falling apart but i have some rust that is under the door on the body of the truck. I just keep painting white over it My truck is pretty quiet. I think the ch will get better mpg no doubt, but if i drive my truck keeping the boost under 25 pounds all day long i average 5.5 -5.7 hauling rock locally with tons of stoplights and that is with even having bigger injectors and turned up pump. I used to ask the guy all the time what kind of mpg he was getting and he always seemed to do better than me and not really be in tune with his truck as much as me. I really do like my r model and i dont mind the camelback setup with the seat i have in it. To me the Ch sits too high and is weird around corners. I make plenty of power where i dont really need 13 speeds. I have found that even if i keep it at 1600 rpm and avoid going into overdrive on certain roads, as long as i keep the boost down and my pyro temps and my foot out of it, i do decent on fuel. I am not sure what a 427 ch would do but i do know the electronic controlled ones have an advantage with mpg. I am still torn between which truck i would like better. To me i like being different and smoking CH's that say E7-427 or E7-460 on the door and have them wondering ONCE in a while. To me the r model just fits like a glove and the certain creature comforts you get with it like being able to stand on the battery box to get to windshield is nice, plus mine is full mechanical. I guess i have talked myself out of it. But im always going to wonder. Is it worth it to ditch the R model just to get air ride but sit up higher?

Yeah that is kinda what i was thinking. I don't think i really even need a 13 speed too. The mechanical engine is awesome because even though i make tons of boost, i can still walk 460 macks by just easing into the throttle then gently start to hammer it and i get no smoke. Only thing bad about R models is there are almost 1000 pounds heavier so right there is a half a ton lost on cartage. However i feel that if i can somehow make my freuhauff into an air ride trailer then i woulld like my truck more.

Yes mine is mechanical and drives awesome. I smoke every single mack on the road out there except for the newer mp8 with automatic of course. 450k on mine. Is it worth to at least buy the truck and have my r model sit? I think the only thing i would like about the ch is that it has air ride. I always thought the cabs were kinda funky though

So i found a guy that i used to work with got out of business to work for a ready mix place using their equipment. The truck was an old abbey paving truck and then he had it up till a year ago. The truck is a 99 CH 427 417 gears aluminum wheels air ride MACK 13 speed ( with the gold dog ) (how does this shift compared to an eaton) All i know is the eaton has two countershafts and the mack has 3. Has 647000 miles on it Has new steers and kingpins, Put new front rear end in last year put new radiator in 50000 miles ago He wants 21000 or best offer If i can get it for 17-18k? Is it an upgrade from my R model? My R model has 450k on it without air ride, 442 rears, 9 speed, but im making 42 pounds of boost, How hard are the electronics to turn up safely? I am only interested in the CH because whenever i worked with the guy it was a really quick truck and never got stuck even on muddy jobs even though it has air ride was reliable and he maintained it. Are the miles too high? I know the e7 is a damn good engine and even at 1 million miles a 427 13 speed is always worth at least 15k right? Plus i think his truck will be 800 pounds lighter than what i got. I was also interested in a ch becuase i heard from a ton of people that they are most comfortable trucks out there. even compared to petes with air trac and air leaf suspension. What are your thoughts??? thanks I m looking at it tomorrow at 9 am

Yes that is the trailer brad. He said he was 29000 with it. I don't think im going to buy it. He wants 25-30k for it. he might think about the price, but after looking at it it seems to be on the heavy side as far as weight is concerned. It looks like a good trailer but not for what he is asking. To be honest i think i am just going to place an order for a brand new Mac trailer next year. It will be about 54000 out the door and that is with a new liner installed and tarp. They say it will weigh about 9400 when its all said and done and they are built with the lightest bestest stuff. From the factory they weigh about 8700 but when you add the tarp and liner then it adds price. I may think of doing that and using mine or find a way to just add air ride to my trailer. Not even sure if its possible though

Well, im going to be looking at a 98 galbreath trailer. Guy had it since it was new, he put a liner in it. the liner goes up 30 inches. The sides are 60 inches tall. For some reason two years ago he redid the whole air ride suspension and bushings. It has long draft arms. It is frameless, It has self adjustiing brakes, It has new tires, and it has ribs on the side just like an east trailer and it has Air ride and aluminum wheels. You have all probably seen a picture of my truck but im wondering how that trailer would look on my truck or if that trailer would be an upgrade. How much is something like that worth? 20-25k? As far as the tractor goes i figured out why it was riding so rough and it rides way smoother now. I have an eldorado vip highback seat in the truck and its a great seat but i guess it doesnt work right if you have the sit leaning close to the back of the truck so i adjusted it to where i moved it a few inches forward and it rides awesome now. I still think a trailer would be a nice upgrade though. Here is a picture of what my truck and trailer combo look like right now. I think what i like best about my trailer even though its a 94 is that i still have the original finish on there. Acid hasnt touched it once! Only posting so that others can tell me how another trailer might look

But now there are some new variables and thoughts in the process.

Bringing this up again because i am supposed to look at a 98 galbreath trailer with 60 foot sides, (liner) aluminium, frameless, new air bag setup, new brakes (self adjusting) long draft arms, aluminum wheels. I like the looks of my freuhauf with my truck but I'm thinking that i either need to get a better truck like peterbilt 379 or kenworth w900 with air ride and maybe keep the trailer? Or am i best off keeping my mack and just upgrading the trailer instead??? Does a ch with springs and air ride trailer ride any different than an RD with springs and air ride trailer? Only asking because im deciding if i should just keep my spring ride trailer and upgrade the truck? Reason is because my dad has a 96 peterbilt with air trac suspension and the same trailer as me and said it rides great. I know the tractor is the main difference in how it will ride but how will just upgrading the trailer be with keeping my r model? thanks

Thanks for the lead on the white diamond polish. I picked it up today at advance auto and it seems the exact same as hoosier polish so im happy with it. I was able to do my tarp cover on front of trailer, my tanks, my turn signal housings, my mirrors, my mirror bars, and the DOG lol.

Okay so i wanted to order some hoosier metal polish. Fleetpride hasn't had any forever now so i figured i would just go online and i can't find any to order in any searches. Is there a better polish for aluminum that i could be using that they still make?

Looks awesome

On the E7 if you mess with the aneroid spring and weaken it , it will make more black smoke and allowing the turbo to spool sooner but only if you don't push the pedal down all the way. Let's say if you never messed with the aneroid and turned the pump up and expected to be quicker off the line. It won't be because they set it up that way to create zero smoke and giving it a delay which is what i feel. Now if you have the spring weakened and floor it, it will just blow black smoke and almost be slower. You need to find the right balance between it all and most of all just control your foot. I can walk from most macks out there without making any black smoke at all. When you have your puff limiter or aneroid spring messed with, all you have to do is ease into the throttle and then just start to floor it. You can still get plenty of power this way. That is almost the way the truck is setup to begin with, but i feel the aneroid is setup way to stiff from the factory making it very sluggish. When i first got my e7 i was comparing it to my old e6 300 and it didnt have any torque like my old truck. The e6 with that puff limiter removed gives it instant punch. Thats when i started to mess with things on my e7 and i've been happy.

Just curious what your empty weight is with that setup

It's missing the spot where it says work ready!

So i got my new rear exhaust pipe from mack the other day. I am going to get it ceramic coated since they don't offer the chrome or aluminum finish anymore. Cheapest i could get the pipe for was 479.00 It is the stock 4 inch pipe which will be going into a 4 ID muffler and either a 5 inch outlet or a 6 inch outlet for my exhaust tip. Would a 6 inch Tip look out of place? It will have a chrome muffler, I will still use the muffler shield to add the look of bulkness which is why i feel a 6 inch tip will look cool. Also, what is the real difference between a regular muffler and a ( performance one) . I hear that you can get up to .25 mpg better with a performance one and maybe it sounds just a tad better? I don't want straight pipe. I prefer to hear the sound of the turbo. The truck is a mack RD and i think they only look good with the curved tip? I was thinking of going with a 6 inch slash cut because i have a bucket that i can put over the pipe when im done working to prevent water getting in. Or is the curved pipe in 5 inches the way to go? I have never really seen an RD with anything other than curved pipe. Any got pics or ideas? thanks

How do you think a 5 inch inlet with 6 inch outlet would look or just go with 5 all around?

When i wanted the pipe that goes under cab to muffler , axle wanted 1500 dollars for the stainless steel version. I think you can make a custom 5 inch one fit from past the flex pipe to the muffler. There is enough room i think. Only thing that is in the way is the hydraulic line going to the tank.

I have seen some good looking r model macks on google but its always asking me to sign up for pinterest to see more pictures. i think the look to go for is a 5 inch inlet and outlet chrome muffler. I do like the chrome guard. I have one already. It makes the muffler look bigger than it is. Still tossing some ideas around of what its going to look like but i have it narrowed down to 1 pipe.

I'm glad that you scored a good deal but i don't know where to begin to get my exhaust stuff. I guess i just need to take measurements and call a chrome shop? I found something like this just doing a search. http://www.raneystruckparts.com/mack-granite-r-model-aluminized-muffler-10-body-diameter/ Says its aluminized. What does that mean? It will be polished? I think you are missing the point about why i want to powdercoat. Its because its the only way to get a shinier muffler and pipe for cheaper than mack makes. I already have the guard that goes over the muffler which makes it look good from the passenger side, but from the drivers side it just looks like a dull finish and i thought powdercoating it would look good. Do they make chrome MUFFLERS? I don't think so. Upon more research i found this. http://www.truckpipesusa.com/categories/mufflers/type-1-end-in-end-out-centered.html Looks like i CAN get a chrome muffler So i would need 4 inch inlet and 5 inch outlet and then its up to me to figure out how tall i want it to be and then just use the existing muffler bracket that came with the truck right? I think what i would like to do is get a 5 inch inlet and outlet, i think the 5 inch would look a little beefier coming to the muffler. Is it as simple as just taking measurements or is mack the only that is going to make the pipe that goes from muffler to flex pipe under cab?

My truck is a 95 RD E7 350. It came with a 5 inch from turbo then reduced to 4 inch because thats all that they could fit in the frame area, then it goes under the cab, then to a flex pipe, then to a long pipe, then to the muffler. Okay I need a new muffler and a pipe that goes from the flex pipe on the bottom of the truck to the muffler ( that pipe is 1500 dollars from mack and is stainless steel) I almost bought it. Then i started to think it would be a better idea to just get the cheap cast iron one (400-700 dollars??) and have it powdercoated a new chrome finish. Two questions. Where is the best place to get a muffler? Im sure mack has a replacement stock one, but are there options to get a better one? more high flowing, I am not sure what the measurements are, 4 inch muffler to a 5 inch tip? Is mack the only place to call? Before you ask why i want to do this is because my current muffler has been bad for awhile, its leaking and i get soot all on the back of my truck and when i wash it , it goes everywhere. The next question is , would it look better if i decided to get the muffler and long exhaust pipe that goes under the cab up to muffler BOTH powderocated chrome? I don't think it has been done and might look good? Is there a problem with powdercoating a muffler? I know its ceramic coating and would help with heat plus i don't think it will crack off. So here is what i ultimately would like to do. Get a new pipe from flex pipe to muffler ( can it be 5 inches or bigger? ) who makes it? Get a new muffler, Get a new exhaust tip) Not sure what to do other than talk to my mechanic and have him do research and pay a fortune. Anyways, let me know what you think

442 rears here too and i turn 1800 at 65 mph. 1600 gets me about 58mph i believe. 1900 gets me 70 22.5 tires here