dds92780

Did you place a bid? haha I think the interior looks nice except for the big visor

Great story! and beautiful truck too (jealous) This reminds me of when there was no work to do a few years ago in the construction business. People were on strike. I took a job at menards distribution center (worst job ever) I had a delivery to make in the morning. i left in my R ( my R was modifed to where i get rid of the air controlled wipers and did the electronic conversion with delay on it) Well, about 20 minutes after being loaded on my way to my delivery, My fuse for the wipers goes out. It was POURING OUT. I was a dumbass and kept driving. I had rainex on and it helped me enough but the whole time i was thinking, this place don't pay me enough and its not like im getting a medal for getting this stupid load there on time lol. I think i was more of a dumbass than you

Very well said! While i respect your knowledge and opinions, I called midwest injection yesterday and told them what the truck is still doing and asked if the injectors went bad is it covered under warranty? He said that they are. I even told him that i get 160-170 across the board on all my temps in cylinders except for 1 cylinder. he asked which cylinder. I told him it was cylinder number 1 which only got 135. He told me that isnt even something he would blink about or worry about because according to him it is normal for that cylinder to run colder than all of the others? Any agree with this? It is the cylinder that is closest to the fan and the intercooler but what else causes it to be colder? (assuming he is right) Well, i then asked about if i had stuck valves which in turn would make them bent at this point what it would be doing and he said it would be making a popping sound and smoking a little and that is not anything that i have going on so scratch that. I am assuming the valve train is good. Only thing i can think of is air trapped in the fill tube or some sort of air restriction in some line? He agreed that the restriction or problem is most likely external and not internal so i hope hes right on that. Only thing i can think of as to why there might be an air restriction is because the fill tube on the fuel tank is too short and if you still have 10 gallons or so in it, you will run out of fuel, but i don't think that would affect normal driving. Hmmm, i don't know what step to take if any at this point. I need help on solving this never ending mystery. Cheers!

Good advice so far guys. Staxx, a couple people have said it could be the injectors But i got them rebuilt 3 months ago. COULD one go bad that fast? Has this happened to you before? So you are saying if i had a stuck a valve or two they would get bent and make performance even worse? Do you think that maybe i just have permanant bent valves? Theakers I think it could be my rockers too but the problem is that its not just when its hot, its at any temp. Almost feels like the camshaft has bad lobes on it and it doesnt like those rpm spots or seems like the cam is good but the valves are stuck and where the lobe is but i have zero knowledge on mechanics. I have been told that if i had bad lobes on my cam i would hear it more. I have posted a video of me doing 0 to 50 and it seems to make just as much power as a 427. So my question is, should i try fixing this or just use my truck as a money maker? Theakers, my engine is an e7 too e7 350 mechanical pump, 1995.

He looks like billy big rigger with the short sleeve shirt rolled all the way to the top lmao

Okay i didnt know where to post this. Some of you may know that i have posted a few videos trying to get to the bottom of this i popped the hood , set the throttle control at 1200 waited 5 mins, then let it back down after a min. Here are my results starting with cylinder 6 first, 6 158 5 163 4 164 3 170 2 163 1 135 Bingo. so i know there is a misfire but what is it? I think its a stuck valve which might show why when we took the valve cover off a few months ago to do a valve adjustment and bridge work that it looked a lil dry. Compression in the cylinders should be okay. I am making plenty of power, i dont have blowby or even blow smoke nor can i smell any burning smoke. Sooooo experts, whats the next step? -Dustin- Also, Injectors were rebuilt 3 months ago and pump was rebuilt and calibrated about 2 weeks ago too

Is this the same guy?

That turbo is nuts! It sounds like he has a ton of useful power. I might get sick of that sound after awhile though, its not a gradual boosting experience like a mack. Still sounds good though.

No thats not the case . It's AT spec now and those cylinder temps were my results.

My dad was telling me it runs fine and he has driven plenty of r models ( says all of them had some sort of thing wrong with it and its normal lol) He also said if it makes me feel any better they usually make one more cylinder a little weaker than all the others to get better fuel economy??? i never heard of that before. But like i said, it pulls like a 427

So there is no weird vibration that everyone is thinking. the video i posted looks like a bad shake because i am resting my hand and my other hand on the phone resting on the steering wheel. If anything shakes it will be noticed. I know there is a misfire to it. I just got back from work and let the truck idle at 1200 rpm where most of the shake could be noticed if you really analyzed it. i popped the hood , set the throttle control at 1200 waited 5 mins, then let it back down after a min. Here are my results starting with cylinder 6 first, 6 158 5 163 4 164 3 170 2 163 1 135 Bingo. so i know there is a misfire but what is it? I think its a stuck valve which might show why when we took the valve cover off a few months ago to do a valve adjustment and bridge work that it looked a lil dry. Compression in the cylinders should be okay. I am making plenty of power, i dont have blowby or even blow smoke nor can i smell any burning smoke. Sooooo experts, whats the next step? -Dustin-

I paid 1170 out the door for mine. it was 890 or so , then 200 for shipping and then 80 to pay to have a broker from canada have it pass over us customs . (border control i guess) Mine is in grey. Trent you will LOVE the seat

never thought about putting a sub under the passenger seat. Have you done this or seen it done? how does it sound? what size? 8 inches? I know in a trunk setup of a car it sounds good but never heard of doing that in a semi truck. im very curious now

Here is the picture of the grill for the speaker

Okay so i need to replace my headunit and speakers. I thought this would be a great time to update the size of the speakers? First off my truck is a 95 RD 688S. It looks like the speakers might be 5 1/4. Has anyone done 6.5 inch? I did this on my last R model but this setup looks different where i have the black mack visor over the speaker grill and a bigger speaker might not fit. Has anyone done this? I will post a pic too of what it looks like.

Here is a pic of the seat

we had both seats, look at my post on the eldorado vip seat and youll see all the headaches i went through to get one. They havent changed much it, just the air switches are on the left (3 of them) the height adjust yellow knob on front and the anti slider knob, just adjust the height all the way to the top then let all the air out of it, then the raise it just enough (prob 1-2 inches so you are still slanted then adjust lumber support and you got a solid R model with air ride cab and best seat in my opinion. Only way i could drive my truck is with this seat

You have the eldorado seat too? Good seat isnt it?

I agree with all the above comments but what about the weight difference. If we take two exact trucks that only differ because of suspension is there much of a weight difference? Is there anyone on here that has driving camelback mack their whole life that still has a good back?

Okay i have done a ton of research on a lot of things that are involved but i really want to know what the pluses and minuses of both of these are. I will name off a few of what i think i know and i would love for someone to explain it better or offer further advice I have always been told that being in the dump business (18 wheeler) you should get a truck with camelback because it's less likely to spin the tires and get stuck less likely than some situations where an air ride would get stuck. I have also witnessed other air ride trucks getting stuck just after dumping a load and spinning their tires and not moving lol. They then have to raise it again and scissor out. (if they are lucky) Air ride obviously rides better , camelback rides okay when loaded, air ride bags can go out, camelback has trunion bushings and isolator bushings that go bad, I have had to do allignments a few times on trucks with camelback which is usually just replacing the bushings , Does air ride have an advantage because of this? I have never talked to anyone complaining of a truck pulling to the right or to the left that has air ride If a truck is the same exact as the other truck other than one having air ride and one having camelback, is there a weight difference at all? I was told there isnt because even though spring suspension is heavy , there is a lot of parts and hardware required for air ride? All in all, i think these are all my questions so far. Is there a winner? ( I did make my camelback setup pretty good though with the addittion of the eldorado vip seat) I see plenty of people that don't have macks and drive freightliners and internationals and peterbilt and kenworth that do just the same things as me and probably have a better ride the whole time too. I am thinking camelback is overrated? Anyone agree or disagree. Thanks, Dustin

Very good advice guys. I guess its just cheaper to buy a truck that already has it done then. I know that saving another 300 pounds would make you about 1500-2000 extra per year but you don't think its really worth it given all the headaches involved to get to that point? I see what you mean about painting the wheels to look meaner. What do you think about just putting the whole setup that aluminum color ( kinda a greyish silver) but point it all) the wedges the 5 star hub, the inside of the wheel and then get chrome nut covers and a hub cover? Would this look good? Does anyone have a picture of that?

You guys are great Well, the reason i want aluminum is because i am in the dump business and if i got aluminum its 40 pounds difference on each wheel so just doing the truck is 8 x40 = 320 15 percent of a ton. i guess it would add up. and if i did the trailer another 320 pounds but i hear its a ton of work to change out the hubs and do you think its all worth it? I currently do paint my wheels. I use the aluminum bright paint on the wheel and the hub i paint black and i use a cardboard cutout to cover up painting the tires silver, yeah ive done that on accident before lol i never thought of painting the wedges though. why not just paint the whole entire thing silver? or would that look bad? i currently have the chrome nut covers on order and the hub caps. They were impossible to find so my mechanic ordered them for me. Isn't it 7.5 inches for the hub and i forgot the size of the nut covers.

yes it did , this is why i got the injectors and pump done assuming it would eliminate the problem. I used to notice the seat shaking at idle without me being in it. Now that i did the pump the seat doesnt shake and its a clean idle. I just can't put my finger on it. My dad thinks im nuts for wanting to spend more on it and i should just drive it. I agree with him , because it does pull just fine but im the type that wants it 100 percent fixed because i know something isnt right. yes it will make me money but ill always be thinking about it

Could you keep searching for a pic of that ? That sounds pretty neat