Freightrain

The "20" is not really the number of useable gears. Lo-lo can only be used in first gear,so 16 real gears in a single over box down to 13 in a double over box.

Most quad boxes are really just a Triplex with a deep under which is only good in 1st gear. So you don't really shift it that many times. A double OD quad has even less gears as you don't split 5th at all. Just a heads up if you aren't aware of how they shift.

I ordered generic felts from a supplier and once I pressed them into the channel they pinched tight and glass is tough to move. I kinda rubbed some fuzz off with a razor blade and used some Vaseline on them to make it easier. I would have been in trouble if I had actually gotten power windows for it. They wouldn't have been able to move. I hung the new door shells on my truck in my tiny stall. Ya, it was a PITA. Did wait to install glass, so it was "easier". I hung them, aligned them, then drilled pilot hole in hinge so I could take them off and get them painted. Wash, rinse, repeat.

My local shop did my core for $1200. Bit smaller then your large version.

Vent window is in first. Then assembled door panel with glass rolled completely down. Once panel installed you can roll the glass up into channel in the vent window. My new felts for vent channel is too tight and windows are very hard to crank. Been loosing up over time but slowly.

Good to see you back Swishy. Always enjoy your videos! Love the pics of heavy stuff!

This∆∆∆∆∆ Could have a clutch brake on the quad box, could have 2" input and 9 spd could be smaller and shorter. Back box will be longer for quad over duplex which changes driveshaft. What reason are you wanting to change them? Is the quad a double overdrive?

Well, $399 plus shipping got me the rear seal installer tool from Freedom Tool. Lickety split, the rear seal is installed. I installed the housing and then installed base, the "E6" spacer, and wrenched the wear ring and rear seal right down. Only problem was the wear ring wasn't down enough so I used the "E7" spacer and it took it down .025 deeper the flywheel pilot. Nice. Spent some time with wire wheel to clean surface rust out of pan(hot tank makes bare metal rust if you don't get something on it). It's ready, the gasket has been flattened out for the last few weeks, two tubes of RTV ready, bolts ready, blue lock tite ready. Likely not get back to it until next Tuesday. Have plans Thurs and all weekend so it has to wait. Too late to worry about getting it all up now. Still no luck on the injectors. I tipped the heads up some so the blaster will get all the way around the tube as it sits in that pocket. Tick, tock.

Liquids to soften crud, air chisel and a puller. Haven't trashed an injector yet,but surely beat them to death. Only stripped two of the spacers so far.

Well, 3 injectors out, 3 to go. The last three do wiggle so they are trying to come out. Will keep trying.....

I have watched YouTube videos of rebuilding a Mack. Yes, straight cut gears just like the early 9513 that whined horribly. I can't see why the OD would cause more whine? I would say the tip turbine is making more whine then the transmission. I have a 5 spd outside covered in a foot of snow right now.

Ya, my next biggest concern is the sleeves. I was reading in the manual about replacing the sleeves.

Ya, such a stupid arrangement. Definitely not made for "ease of maintenance". I guess they design it for a lifetime of use only. I looked at pricing heads and that was $4000 a pair. Guess I will be pounding these out.

Well, another update. Not a good one, but work has been done. I got an injector puller and tried it today. Lots of air chisel and wrenching.....got ONE out. That's it. I got another one about 1/2 out and it pulled the spacer out. Not sure if it screwed the threads in the injector? Will get an m10x1.0 tap from work and check it tomorrow night. Two injectors have different threads(larger) in the injector compared to the other four. I stripped one of those spacers already. I think the puller has those thread adapters to fit. Haven't checked into it. I loaded stuff up and brought home so I can work on them easier. WTF was Mack thinking with this design? It has near 3" of injector you have to PULL out. A simple undercut would have made this a WHOLE lot easier. Maybe an O ring at the top to keep crud out? Anything. I called local pump shop. Ya, cubic money no matter what I even consider doing. That's a no go. I may have him go through the injectors or replace the ones that get screwed up.

We got a solid 12" by Sunday. I plowed Sat afternoon to get the first 6" cleared out of the way. Then did it again Sunday. I also did three neighbors drives, cause I'm a good guy. I enjoy playing on the ol Cub cadet. Now it can all melt and be 72*. 😉

All new cars have blinding bright lights. Ya, they are adjusted correctly from the factory so in normal, straight, level roads they are barely "ok". But straight, level roads aren't the norm. Hills and curves make it damn near impossible to see, especially in bad weather. I wear sunglasses at night to be able to drive. Even being a passenger without my glasses on make it difficult to look forward. Don't get me started on these huge LED tail lights. Ugh. Ever roll up behind a Cadillac Escalade? Has three 4ft long lights wrapping around the rear and I usually cover my eyes when stopped behind them. Ludicrous. "It's all about safety". Whatever. People staring at their cell phone still won't see them. I only have one "late model" 1995 F150 with plug in style bulbs. Everything else is old glass sealed beams. Why is it I can safely drive them around for the last 40 yrs without issue? Can I see a gnats ass on Mars? No. But I don't need to. Sorry, this is one of my many growing pet peeves.

Ok, I'm here. Mine is an IR but has no tag. All alum housing with cast pinion drive. Appears to be different then yours. Mine has four bolts around perimeter that allows the end bells to be removed. I didn't have new gaskets and friend said use "pop can cartons", so I cut them out and it works fine. You need to get some diesel fuel or air tool oil and get the vanes loosened up. Wash it all out and get it reassembled. I purchased an oiler for mine as after a couple years the vanes started sticking. Oiler takes a squirt of fuel from your return line and gets it injected into motor to lube the vanes(just like you do to an air tool). Been about 8 yrs without a failure. Oiler is that small round part on left side. Oily sumbitch from that leaky 237, needs cleaned up before putting back on the 300 motor.

Mill it off and restamp it!! It's only illegal if you get caught. 😉

Air assist was an acquired taste. I loved mine,it was better then Armstrong. Quirky but better then nothing.

Nice work.

So you need one 675 Jake housing? They are out there, but only needing one will likely be tough to purchase as most as sold in a set.

I swapped the old lock down style for the screw down version in my 300+. No issues. I did end up buying a screw down model as things are tighter around the pump on the 300 and that bailing ring would be a nuisance. I never needed to pump it, the original pump was broken and I just needed something to screw into the transfer pump.

Sorry, still have a T bar seat......there is no lowering it.

While at the shop Saturday, friend offered me one of those air splitter shifters. He bought it from Chrome shop mafia some years back for like $600 and never installed it. He says I can have it. He says you won't believe have cheap it is for the money. Just a lever hooked to an old school splitter valve. Real simple. I may or may not use it 🤨

Peterbilt??? Probably 5 ft tall and a glitter ball on the end.....🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣