Freightrain

I have watched YouTube videos of rebuilding a Mack. Yes, straight cut gears just like the early 9513 that whined horribly. I can't see why the OD would cause more whine? I would say the tip turbine is making more whine then the transmission. I have a 5 spd outside covered in a foot of snow right now.

Ya, my next biggest concern is the sleeves. I was reading in the manual about replacing the sleeves.

Ya, such a stupid arrangement. Definitely not made for "ease of maintenance". I guess they design it for a lifetime of use only. I looked at pricing heads and that was $4000 a pair. Guess I will be pounding these out.

Well, another update. Not a good one, but work has been done. I got an injector puller and tried it today. Lots of air chisel and wrenching.....got ONE out. That's it. I got another one about 1/2 out and it pulled the spacer out. Not sure if it screwed the threads in the injector? Will get an m10x1.0 tap from work and check it tomorrow night. Two injectors have different threads(larger) in the injector compared to the other four. I stripped one of those spacers already. I think the puller has those thread adapters to fit. Haven't checked into it. I loaded stuff up and brought home so I can work on them easier. WTF was Mack thinking with this design? It has near 3" of injector you have to PULL out. A simple undercut would have made this a WHOLE lot easier. Maybe an O ring at the top to keep crud out? Anything. I called local pump shop. Ya, cubic money no matter what I even consider doing. That's a no go. I may have him go through the injectors or replace the ones that get screwed up.

We got a solid 12" by Sunday. I plowed Sat afternoon to get the first 6" cleared out of the way. Then did it again Sunday. I also did three neighbors drives, cause I'm a good guy. I enjoy playing on the ol Cub cadet. Now it can all melt and be 72*. 😉

All new cars have blinding bright lights. Ya, they are adjusted correctly from the factory so in normal, straight, level roads they are barely "ok". But straight, level roads aren't the norm. Hills and curves make it damn near impossible to see, especially in bad weather. I wear sunglasses at night to be able to drive. Even being a passenger without my glasses on make it difficult to look forward. Don't get me started on these huge LED tail lights. Ugh. Ever roll up behind a Cadillac Escalade? Has three 4ft long lights wrapping around the rear and I usually cover my eyes when stopped behind them. Ludicrous. "It's all about safety". Whatever. People staring at their cell phone still won't see them. I only have one "late model" 1995 F150 with plug in style bulbs. Everything else is old glass sealed beams. Why is it I can safely drive them around for the last 40 yrs without issue? Can I see a gnats ass on Mars? No. But I don't need to. Sorry, this is one of my many growing pet peeves.

Ok, I'm here. Mine is an IR but has no tag. All alum housing with cast pinion drive. Appears to be different then yours. Mine has four bolts around perimeter that allows the end bells to be removed. I didn't have new gaskets and friend said use "pop can cartons", so I cut them out and it works fine. You need to get some diesel fuel or air tool oil and get the vanes loosened up. Wash it all out and get it reassembled. I purchased an oiler for mine as after a couple years the vanes started sticking. Oiler takes a squirt of fuel from your return line and gets it injected into motor to lube the vanes(just like you do to an air tool). Been about 8 yrs without a failure. Oiler is that small round part on left side. Oily sumbitch from that leaky 237, needs cleaned up before putting back on the 300 motor.

Mill it off and restamp it!! It's only illegal if you get caught. 😉

Air assist was an acquired taste. I loved mine,it was better then Armstrong. Quirky but better then nothing.

Nice work.

So you need one 675 Jake housing? They are out there, but only needing one will likely be tough to purchase as most as sold in a set.

I swapped the old lock down style for the screw down version in my 300+. No issues. I did end up buying a screw down model as things are tighter around the pump on the 300 and that bailing ring would be a nuisance. I never needed to pump it, the original pump was broken and I just needed something to screw into the transfer pump.

Sorry, still have a T bar seat......there is no lowering it.

While at the shop Saturday, friend offered me one of those air splitter shifters. He bought it from Chrome shop mafia some years back for like $600 and never installed it. He says I can have it. He says you won't believe have cheap it is for the money. Just a lever hooked to an old school splitter valve. Real simple. I may or may not use it 🤨

Peterbilt??? Probably 5 ft tall and a glitter ball on the end.....🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Friend gave me number to local place so I will call and just see what I have to work with. I know it get very pricey. Maybe it is just a governor setting? An old BMT member sent me some pump numbers for a 320hp motor so I have something to work with. Time will tell.

So a fancy pump? Mine has a Robert Bosch which I was told is the pump to have

The boss is nuts. He is ALWAYS hot rodn shit. It's always never fast enough.....

I lifted both off the ground and carried them out and out them in my pickup. Then unload at shop. Yowza. Glad I'm still young....🤣 I just spent part of the day out torquing the rods down. Then installed oil pump after doing a quick backwash with fresh oil to make sure it was clean. I got the air compressor installed also and remade the coolant line for it. Just little things to keep picking stuff off the floor. I need to address that rear seal so I can get the pan installed.

15# is about right. I was having power issues years back and found my lift pump was failing. I mounted a fuel pressure gauge out on the air cleaner so I could watch it while driving. It would rise and fall. Replaced pump and was a solid 15#. If you don't have a liquid filled gauge it will flutter due to check valves in the pump. A liquid filled gauge will dampen the bouncing needle some. The lift pump is where the plastic check valves are at that was mentioned to check by Terry.

Thanks for the ideas. I left the heads at machine shop as too freaking heavy to load and unload again. Will gather some tools and try again next weekend.

So with working with injectors, I was poking around my manual I looked at injection pump numbers. Knowing this is set at 295 HP(lowest setting), I wonder what pump number is the 320hp model? It doesn't denote anything like that. Being a gear head I am already thinking of more HP. 😲. If I knew what pump number for 320 hp version I could send pump out and tell said shop to make it to that specification. Maybe. Just dreaming.

The banjo threads are m10x1.0(haven't confirmed pitch but likely but OD is .390). I have everything metric at work because we do a lot of metric) but nothing at home. Might buy a few bolts on way to shop and use their small slide hammer to try to pop them loose.

Tight as prom night... 😆 Rear head looks like they have been out as different shade of color and cleaner looking. Front head they are packed with dirt all the way up to clamp. Ugh. I was hoping to take to machine shop today but may have to wait a week.

Question of the night: Pulling injectors. Mine are "stuck". Tried giving one a smack with a pry bar and no go. Puller the best way? Do you remove the nut and thread puller on that(what thread is it?)or use the banjo threads(which seems like metric m10).