HeyCharger Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 ok guys, technical expertise required.I've been able to deduce that the compound rails have become sloppy (ie not a tight fit).What this means is that when I select Lo-Lo the lever, more often than not stays in that position, ie it has risen up on top of the rail. This necessitates taking the lever out, using a big screwdriver to centralise the rails, then put back the lever and off I go.My thoughts are (for a simple, cheap solution) to build up the sides, ever so slightly, of the bottom of the lever so it cannot come up between the two rails.Ideas?Thanks. Rod. Quote Proud owner of;1961 Mack B61 prime mover.1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HK Trucking Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 My thoughts are (for a simple, cheap solution) to build up the sides, ever so slightly, of the bottom of the lever so it cannot come up between the two rails.Thats what I used to do to solve that problem.BTW, when it gets hung up in gear like that, you can use a large screwdriver to pry the rails into neutral at those clevises, on the shift rails that run from the shift tower to the back box. No need to pull the shifter out of the hole to un jam it. Quote "If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Thats what I used to do to solve that problem.BTW, when it gets hung up in gear like that, you can use a large screwdriver to pry the rails into neutral at those clevises, on the shift rails that run from the shift tower to the back box. No need to pull the shifter out of the hole to un jam it.Hi Herb:Where are we talking about these being sloppy? I've seen low mileage Fuller transmissions with more slop fore, aft, and sideways than the well abused quad I've got in "Yella Dog".Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HK Trucking Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 The compound shifter, Rob.Do you have a pic of that in your book?We used to have those jam up all the time on the B models & early DM's when I was out east.You'd get under the truck and pry the external compound shift rails back into neutral with a screwdriver or pry bar and be on your way again.Except for one time, when a guy was rounding a corner and tried to downshift from hi split to lo split and the worn stick jumped out of the hi split rail and got into the other rail and managed to get into lo split at the same time, locking up the transmission and blowing the compound section all to shit.I used to weld up the end of the stick, then grind it down so it was somewhat near the original dimensions and that kept it from happening (til it wore down again). Quote "If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyCharger Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Where are we talking about these being sloppy?Hi Rob, The compound rails are on the OUTSIDE (and left hand side of the main gear lever) of the gearbox. Not shown at all on your diagrams.They are allowing a lot of lateral movement and the gear lever, when positioned to LoLo, is therefore coming up out of its detents and sitting up on top of the right hand rail and won't go back down, therefore staying in LoLo. Rod.Thanks Herb. I think I will try what I thought and you confirmed. Quote Proud owner of;1961 Mack B61 prime mover.1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 The compound shifter, Rob.Do you have a pic of that in your book?We used to have those jam up all the time on the B models & early DM's when I was out east.You'd get under the truck and pry the external compound shift rails back into neutral with a screwdriver or pry bar and be on your way again.Except for one time, when a guy was rounding a corner and tried to downshift from hi split to lo split and the worn stick jumped out of the hi split rail and got into the other rail and managed to get into lo split at the same time, locking up the transmission and blowing the compound section all to shit.I used to weld up the end of the stick, then grind it down so it was somewhat near the original dimensions and that kept it from happening (til it wore down again).Yeah locking one in two gears is never a good thing. I think you are talking about where the actual shift lever fits into the shifter blocks or tops of the forks, and the associated wear points? I've built several transmissions up like that through the years. If a guy uses "hard facing" rod, it stays built up for a long time but is a real bitch to grind to the proper contour.I don't have a photo of the compound at home with me, but will post one later this morning when I get to the shop.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HK Trucking Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Yeah locking one in two gears is never a good thing. I think you are talking about where the actual shift lever fits into the shifter blocks or tops of the forks, and the associated wear points? I've built several transmissions up like that through the years. If a guy uses "hard facing" rod, it stays built up for a long time but is a real bitch to grind to the proper contour.I don't have a photo of the compound at home with me, but will post one later this morning when I get to the shop.RobYeah, I used mild steel (6013) for build up.I considered using hard surface, but I was concerned that if I did that, the end of the stick would survive longer, but it might wear the shift rails instead. Quote "If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Used to happen all the time on my dm,I broke down and bought new shift rails and the alluminum housing,the housing was the thing that worn out,the holes were oblong,also bought a new shifter,you just can't belive the difference in the way it shifted,but that is not a cheap way out.In the mean time if your carefull the way you shift it won't jam up,do not move the shifter diagonally pull it strait foward or strait back to nutural and then to the left or right in a straight line if you know what I mean.Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyCharger Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 Update! I've just removed the compound bracket and rails.Well, to say they are worn is an understatement.So I may have to get some better ones.May I enquire as to the cost of the bracket and the rails?Thanks. Rod. Quote Proud owner of;1961 Mack B61 prime mover.1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 I replased mine about eight years ago,I'm pretty sure the rails were about a hundred apiece,not sure about the bracket but it was cheaper than the rails,I have to say it was money well spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 The compound shifter, Rob.Do you have a pic of that in your book?I looked in all the books that I have and do not have the breakdown of the compound like the main. The compound shifter rails are shown towards the bottom of the posted diagram though. I'm surprised the I don't have anything with the compound cover either.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyCharger Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 I replased mine about eight years ago,I'm pretty sure the rails were about a hundred apiece,not sure about the bracket but it was cheaper than the rails,I have to say it was money well spent.Hi Macks. Would you have a contact email or phone number for the place you purchased the bracket?Thanks. Rod.The part number is 110KB 325A BRACKET, Compound hand control lever Quote Proud owner of;1961 Mack B61 prime mover.1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 HotRod,I bought mine at Long Island truck parts in medford, long island, NY,the phone number is 631 736 3434 and e-mail is info@litruckparts.com back then they had them in stock,maybe they still have one laying around or a good used one since they rebuld trannys there.If you call them ask for Rob,Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyCharger Posted February 22, 2009 Author Share Posted February 22, 2009 UPDATE - After searching here and the States, love nor money cannot buy a new (or even a good) one, so a local engineering company is going to "bore and bush" it for me.Not cheap, but at least it will be good. Yeeha! Rod.ps thanks Macks. Long Island Truck Parts advised me, that they had not sold one in about 10 years. Yours must have been the last Quote Proud owner of;1961 Mack B61 prime mover.1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Maybe it was ten years ago,time flies when you having fun,anyway great idea to have it rebult with bushing put in it,I think if they were made from the get go with bushings they would last a lot longer,good luck and let us all know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyCharger Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 Finished. The engineering company I found locally, bored and bushed the old bracket and also made up one new sliding rail.Cost just over A$200, but just been for a test run and FANTASTIC!!!And while I had nothing to do :rolleyes: I decided to change the air compressor. So here I am, lying flat on my back, under the old girl, pushing a 25kg air compressor UP from underneath and juggling it for position, when my (well, she actually belongs to the Guide Dog Assoc) 13week old pup decides to lick my almost bald head. When I keep pushing her away, with whatever hand is free, she then turn and pushes her ass into my face. "Life wasn't meant to be easy" Quote Proud owner of;1961 Mack B61 prime mover.1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Sounds like you got a good deal for 200 bucks and it's most likely better than a new one,good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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