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Not 100% sure, but that looks like it is put together like most others.

Remove the snap ring on the input shaft (leave the one on the outside of the bearing in place)

rap on the end of the shaft to drive it back a small bit, then pull the shaft (and the bearing with it) forward enough to get a set of pry bars behind the snap ring on the bearing, and work it forward and off the shaft.

That is the typical way you do it on heavy truck transmissions, but if Mack does it different I stand to be corrected.

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56 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Not 100% sure, but that looks like it is put together like most others.

Remove the snap ring on the input shaft (leave the one on the outside of the bearing in place)

rap on the end of the shaft to drive it back a small bit, then pull the shaft (and the bearing with it) forward enough to get a set of pry bars behind the snap ring on the bearing, and work it forward and off the shaft.

That is the typical way you do it on heavy truck transmissions, but if Mack does it different I stand to be corrected.

Sound thanks bud 

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You got to split the trans leave it alone! You’re going to have to build a special tool if you want to try removing it in the case! That bearing is usually pressed on apart !  Some Movement is normal there it’s a ball bearing! 
just saying if it doesn’t look pitted  inside race don’t be bothered! Thous  rarely fail ! Common failures are the two upper back ones and the pocket bearing you can’t see mid case on the main shaft!

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42 minutes ago, fjh said:

You got to split the trans leave it alone! You’re going to have to build a special tool if you want to try removing it in the case! That bearing is usually pressed on apart !  Some Movement is normal there it’s a ball bearing! 
just saying if it doesn’t look potted inside race don’t be bothered! Thous  rarely fail ! Common failures are the two upper back ones and the pocket bearing you can’t see mid case on the main shaft!

Are they different than other HD trans? I've done plenty the way I described, snug, but not press fit to the shaft. Common to change the bearing and input when doing a high mileage clutch. Both are done with the trans assembled.

Play is no reason to change, Ball bearing in the flywheel and on the input of the trans, shaft just rides like that.

What say you Jojo?

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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That movement is normal. The input shaft will wiggle.  But I'd swear you can do like GW said, and tap the end inward, til you can get a prying tool behind the bearing snap ring..  I know I have pulled many if them out to replace the 4th-5th sliding clutch, sometimes as a get you by when the 4th speed gear clutching teeth were questionable. Im curious why you cant wiggle it out, i thought i saw sealant, that will give the impression that it is not removable...  

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28 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

That movement is normal. The input shaft will wiggle.  But I'd swear you can do like GW said, and tap the end inward, til you can get a prying tool behind the bearing snap ring..  I know I have pulled many if them out to replace the 4th-5th sliding clutch, sometimes as a get you by when the 4th speed gear clutching teeth were questionable. Im curious why you cant wiggle it out, i thought i saw sealant, that will give the impression that it is not removable...  

I have had it half way out but the. Wouldn’t come any more and didn’t want to force it etc. I might just put a new seal in ( when ever it might turn up ) and keep the bearing as a spare 

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You have to remove the snap ring on the SHAFT, not the bearing, for it to come off the shaft. The shaft and bearing WILL NOT come out as one unit.

On most transmissions, once the bearing is off, you remove another snap ring and the shaft comes out, leaving the input gear in the transmission, normally I put the trans in direct when I pull the input. 

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The 4th speed gear comes out with the input shaft.  The input shaft is coupled to the main shaft with a spigot bearing. The sliding clutch will stay in the tranny.  Just for kicks,,,, is this a 100 series transmission. ?

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9 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

The 4th speed gear comes out with the input shaft.  The input shaft is coupled to the main shaft with a spigot bearing. The sliding clutch will stay in the tranny.  Just for kicks,,,, is this a 100 series transmission. ?

OK, that is different than RR and the like, the input gear will not fit through the bearing  opening on those if my memory is correct, but the input shaft is splined to the inside of the gear, you remove a snap ring and the input shaft slides out of the gear. Nose of the main shaft just rides in a bushing on the RR trans.

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I don't know what an RR trans is, but i know you know what you know in this thread, i think the RTV that does not need to be there is holding his input shaft in place giving it the illusion that it wont come out..  

Edited by Joey Mack
Por sperring
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I looked at the pics again.. the RTV should not be used on the bearing. A thin coat on the gasket is ok, but not for sealing the bearing in the hole. Besides, the bearing is not shielded, so oil is going to go through it..  

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8 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I don't know what an RR trans is, but i know you know what know.  Im this thread, i think the RTV that does not need to be there is holding his input shaft in place giving it the illusion that it wont come out..  

sorry Roadranger (Eaton)

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The road ranger will need to be done the way you posted earlier.  Dead blow on the input shaft til there is enough space to get lady slipper bars behind the snap ring.  It takes a little skill, and a lot of patience to do it that way..  

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It is only difficult if you have the bell housing on, the space to work just with the bearing retainer removed makes it difficult. I still do it that way over pulling the bellhousing 1/2 and loosing the oil out the countershaft bearings. I guess it is what you are used to doing.

 Remove the retainer bolts, insert a pair of bars in the bolt holes and work the retainer out of the bell, snap ring pliers and remove the snap ring on the shaft, then two small "ladies foot" pry bars to pop the bearing out, and another snap ring to remove the input. Put the old input aside, as they make the best clutch alignment/installation tool there is. Screw those plastic ones they sell.

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One shop owner wanted the bell pulled, not exactly sure why? If there was no evidence of leakage before I started, I only had one gasket/joint to worry about doing it my way, but he was the boss so did it his way when I was working for him. Doing my own or at a shop that didn't care, I did it my way.

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6 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

The bell housing makes all the difference on how it's done, for sure..  

to build a true machine '' truck or other wise ;; removing the bellhousing  and reinstall included the dial-indicating of the bell housing to eliminate vibration.!!

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4 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Mech ???  You know Damned well that without checking, the run out will be under .008"...  🍻😁

I know it's the Yukon jack speaking after a long day out in the sun working on the superliner then going 10 miles down road to service a KW for Tomorrow.. LOL

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