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Not 100% sure, but that looks like it is put together like most others.

Remove the snap ring on the input shaft (leave the one on the outside of the bearing in place)

rap on the end of the shaft to drive it back a small bit, then pull the shaft (and the bearing with it) forward enough to get a set of pry bars behind the snap ring on the bearing, and work it forward and off the shaft.

That is the typical way you do it on heavy truck transmissions, but if Mack does it different I stand to be corrected.

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56 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Not 100% sure, but that looks like it is put together like most others.

Remove the snap ring on the input shaft (leave the one on the outside of the bearing in place)

rap on the end of the shaft to drive it back a small bit, then pull the shaft (and the bearing with it) forward enough to get a set of pry bars behind the snap ring on the bearing, and work it forward and off the shaft.

That is the typical way you do it on heavy truck transmissions, but if Mack does it different I stand to be corrected.

Sound thanks bud 

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You got to split the trans leave it alone! You’re going to have to build a special tool if you want to try removing it in the case! That bearing is usually pressed on apart !  Some Movement is normal there it’s a ball bearing! 
just saying if it doesn’t look pitted  inside race don’t be bothered! Thous  rarely fail ! Common failures are the two upper back ones and the pocket bearing you can’t see mid case on the main shaft!

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42 minutes ago, fjh said:

You got to split the trans leave it alone! You’re going to have to build a special tool if you want to try removing it in the case! That bearing is usually pressed on apart !  Some Movement is normal there it’s a ball bearing! 
just saying if it doesn’t look potted inside race don’t be bothered! Thous  rarely fail ! Common failures are the two upper back ones and the pocket bearing you can’t see mid case on the main shaft!

Are they different than other HD trans? I've done plenty the way I described, snug, but not press fit to the shaft. Common to change the bearing and input when doing a high mileage clutch. Both are done with the trans assembled.

Play is no reason to change, Ball bearing in the flywheel and on the input of the trans, shaft just rides like that.

What say you Jojo?

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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That movement is normal. The input shaft will wiggle.  But I'd swear you can do like GW said, and tap the end inward, til you can get a prying tool behind the bearing snap ring..  I know I have pulled many if them out to replace the 4th-5th sliding clutch, sometimes as a get you by when the 4th speed gear clutching teeth were questionable. Im curious why you cant wiggle it out, i thought i saw sealant, that will give the impression that it is not removable...  

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28 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

That movement is normal. The input shaft will wiggle.  But I'd swear you can do like GW said, and tap the end inward, til you can get a prying tool behind the bearing snap ring..  I know I have pulled many if them out to replace the 4th-5th sliding clutch, sometimes as a get you by when the 4th speed gear clutching teeth were questionable. Im curious why you cant wiggle it out, i thought i saw sealant, that will give the impression that it is not removable...  

I have had it half way out but the. Wouldn’t come any more and didn’t want to force it etc. I might just put a new seal in ( when ever it might turn up ) and keep the bearing as a spare 

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You have to remove the snap ring on the SHAFT, not the bearing, for it to come off the shaft. The shaft and bearing WILL NOT come out as one unit.

On most transmissions, once the bearing is off, you remove another snap ring and the shaft comes out, leaving the input gear in the transmission, normally I put the trans in direct when I pull the input. 

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