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New radiator and cooling system.


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My truck being older, 1979, and with a brass radiator, my local "go to shop" for heavy truck radiators says he has been able to locate a viable core to rebuild my radiator.  He said if he did locate one it would be pretty spendy and recommended I just replace while radiator. As you can see from the pic mine is pretty dead.  My question is, I was able to pickup a Mack heavy duty truck radiator where the core dimensions are the same as the one out of the truck.  Mounts different, but I have no problem fabricating a new mounting bracket.  This radiator does not have the cap in the upper tank.  Should I put an inline radiator fill in the upper hose or should I add an auxiliary overflow tank the way my other two trucks are.  This truck never had one.

20240515_102048.jpg

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Posted (edited)
On 5/15/2024 at 11:30 AM, RS Disposal said:

My truck being older, 1979, and with a brass radiator, my local "go to shop" for heavy truck radiators says he has been able to locate a viable core to rebuild my radiator.  He said if he did locate one it would be pretty spendy and recommended I just replace while radiator. As you can see from the pic mine is pretty dead.  My question is, I was able to pickup a Mack heavy duty truck radiator where the core dimensions are the same as the one out of the truck.  Mounts different, but I have no problem fabricating a new mounting bracket.  This radiator does not have the cap in the upper tank.  Should I put an inline radiator fill in the upper hose or should I add an auxiliary overflow tank the way my other two trucks are.  This truck never had one.

20240515_102048.jpg

My shop has since closed, but they would have "custom made" cores made for my trucks. Yeah several years ago (may be 10) I spent $2150 on a radiator and $1800 on the out of frame rebuild kit! Yep, more in the radiator than the engine. 

Truck wouldn't be useful without both being done.  Nothing like pulling the Big Horn mts, wide open fully loaded 45 min @ 25 mph and not having to worry about the engine or radiator.

 My shop would take the tanks off, cut the tubes at the end-plate and send it out with the width needed, the core would come back and they would assemble. Also allowed for more tubes (with new end plates) or other changes.

 All it takes is money!😁

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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34 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

My shop has since closed, but they would have "custom made" cores made for my trucks. Yeah several years ago (may be 10) I spent $2150 on a radiator and $1800 on the out of frame rebuild kit! Yep, more in the radiator than the engine. 

Truck wouldn't be useful without both being done.  Nothing like pulling the Big Horn mts, wide open fully loaded 45 min @ 25 mph and not having to worry about the engine or radiator.

 My shop would take the tanks off, cut the tubes at the end-plate and send it out with the width needed, the core would come back and they would assemble. Also allowed for more tubes (with new end plates) or other changes.

 All it takes is money!😁

I totally agree about "all it takes is money"  but that is something due to many circumstances I just don't have.  My shop just says they can't get a core to rebuild.  Maybe it is the attitude of shops in my area.  When I first had my breakdown last summer I approached several shops about doing the work.  I was either told that they were interested in working on older trucks or that the parts were all no longer available, thus the truck was dead in the water without a new engine swap.

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You could try getting up with Rock Mount Radiator, they're nowhere near you, but I've heard good things about them. I've never had to look for radiators on a truck that old. I tried using the VIN you provided on the camshaft/lifter thread, but it genuinely is made of unobtanium. 

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If the truck is "down" without a new radiator, it seam to me that the "where to get a core to rebuild" should be moot. 

 Northern

Detroit rad 

 come to mind,

 there were others that catered to the O/P?

 You want someone who will not buy a pre-made core and just bolt or solder the end caps on, you want someone who can do the whole job. It may cost a fair bit in shipping, but that is what it is.

 I am trying to remember the big names in radiators for trucks, but my memory isn't what it used to be. When I found the shop I used, I never tried to do the job myself again. They weren't quick or cheap, but were good and stood behind their work. I heard they closed a few years ago.

 Worse case you could look into the mfg that supply construction/ off road equipment, but their prices aren't going to be as cheap as automotive.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I ended up buying a new Mack radiator. The core dimensions were all the same as the old radiator. But this radiator requires an expansion/overflow tank.  I got an expansion tank off off a dead trk in the yard. From what I was able to see (this trk had a side mounted radiator) the large hose out the bottom goes to the lower radiator hose. My question is the two smaller hoses that go into the top of the tank.  It appears when tracing down the lines on two other trucks with expansion tanks that one line goes before the thermostat and the other goes after the thermostat (upper radiator hose).  Just wanting to double check being my pickup only has one small line into the top of the radiator and google searches have basically been geared towards automotive systems.

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This type of system is called a "bottom fill" the expansion tank, whether on the top of the radiator or somewhere else is not open to the top tubes of the radiator or, in a cross flow (which is what I believe you have). The idea is the radiator stays full to the brim with coolant, while any air gets forced through the small vent lines to the expansion tank. 

 When you fill the expansion tank, the coolant flows to the lower (waterpump inlet side) hose. as the block and radiator fill, the trapped air flows out the small vent lines to the expansion tank.

 With the engine running, a very small amount of coolant is forced (along with any air) through the small hoses to the expansion tank (sometimes referred as a "de-aeration tank), and the coolant, now free of air, flows back down the large hose and back to the waterpump. 

 This means the radiator doesn't have to be the highest point in the system (expansion tank does) but does mean any points that could trap air need to be vented to the expansion/de-aeration tank. Often those points are the upper water rail near or at the thermostat and the upper or hot water out radiator hose. On a down flow radiator, often the upper hose/top tank vant can be internal if the de aeration tank is mounted on top of the radiator, just a small hole drilled thru will allow the air to bleed out.  This prevents air from being recirculated when the 'stat is closed and hot-spots in the engine.

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