B42Art Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Hey guys, I have a dilema. I have a 1953 B42 in very good shape (refurbished not restored). The front windshield was clouded and leaked at both bottom corners and the center post. So I figured I would solve the problem, change the windshield, rubber and the lock strip. I got the glass, rubber and lock strip from Watt's Mack (very nice I might add). I pulled the old windshield out only to find green paint. Truck is red and has been painted at least twice since new. So it was original. The cab area underneath the rubber was in excellent condition no rot holes, so I sanded, primed and painted that area. The new windshield was put in professionally, seemed to difficult to do myself. Only to see how easy it was with the right tools. Everything fit perfect, nice and tight. Guess what? It leaks! The center post doesn't leak anymore but both lower corners leak just as bad as before. Its not coming in were the glass meets the rubber, its coming in were the rubber meets the cab and the grove in the rubber is seated perfect into the steel on the cab. Is this a normal defect in the B model design or is there something I can do to stop the leak. Thanks for your help, Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 G'day ArtMy 60 B61 leaks in the corners as well, however she's is most likely a bit scruffier than yours. Also, she's the only B that I've been in when it's rained so....Sounds like a good early B you 've got there.CheersAndy Quote Whatever rubs your buddah. The Mack E Model Registry - 103 entries The Mack A Model Registry - 14 entries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Art, I usually use a non hardening glass sealant in the trough and against the steel pinchweld when installing a rubber set glass. Most times with brand new weatherstrips, you do not need to take this precaution. But with the B model cabs, and the way the curvature is at the point you mention, I use it. To test for your leakage point, put an air line in the cab through the holes in the floor with an open air fitting, (point it away from everything), roll up the windows and shut the doors, turn on the air to overpressurize the cab, and spray soap suds around the perimeter of the windshields. You will see bubbles at the point of leakage. Most autobody supply jobbers and retailers will have a product suitable for this use. The product I use comes from our glass supplier.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyCharger Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 The new windshield was put in professionally, seemed to difficult to do myself. Hey Art, as it was installed professionally, I would ring them and get them back to seal it. Nobody installs a windshield to leak, so they should fix their problem.I've had exactly the same situation as you, rang them a week ago and they will come and seal it. All part of the service.Regards, Rod. Quote Proud owner of;1961 Mack B61 prime mover.1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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