Joey Mack Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 ok,, the pipe with the 2 sensors in it going over the valve cover feeds exhaust into the intake, I gues you nees to weld a cap on the EGR cooler end to stop exh flow into the intake.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 Ok so ima send 2 pics one of the two sensor pipe I think your talking about and a better shot of the one that’s plugged you tell me where the cap needs to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 the stainless steel pipe that goes over the rear valve cover..it has 2 probes in it.. weld a plug dont put anything that can come loose and get sucked into the intake.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 dont take the telephone pipe off.. it has orings that will break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 Joe WTH is a telephone pipe and the 2 sensors if would let me send a damn picture are on a pipe running from the air to air on drivers side to another pipe on top the motor this one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 the telephone pipe is the one with the bellows made in it, at the EGR cooler.. the curvy pipe fromt the EGR cooler to the top of the intake snorkle is the one that needs a welded plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Okay I’m gona dig up another pic you tell me cause the one we pulled that was plugged the one coming in on the left of the egr is plugged at the clamp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 the one going over the top withe the 2 piece clamp is the one im talking about.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Ok so leave that one be then where should I cap it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 the one wuth the red boot hose that has the 'S' shape needs a cap welded to that end..to plug off the flow.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 What’s that cooler made of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 stainless steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Ok I can do that I hope I’m telling you guys everything correctly you have seen the motor and we are sure it’s an ac I’ll plug that change compressor have hienz get me new filter assembly I’ll show u better pic of what they did if I can find one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 It is definitely an ASET-C.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 13 hours ago, Artful dodger said: Yes hold on I’ll snap a pick of the pipe we pulled that was plugged I forgot about that the pipe coming out of her cooler that runs under the turbo to the egr valve is the one that was leaking air bad pulled it and it’s plugged The one with the accordion bumps on it! I plugged???? and is leaking? If its capped there or anywhere in that circuit its stopping the flo ! A plate bettween the egr valve and the manifold is less intrusive how ever whats done is done! fix the leak and move on! Your main issue is the turbo is not spooling up properly when you get on the throtle! either the vanes or actuator are sticking or the controller is not working correctly because of the oil! and crap inside it! Have you been resetting the stroke on the turbo sweep before you start! we seem to be getting off track here! my focus here has been to try and keep you working till you got parts and time maybe I 'm off track! Just sayin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 FJH good morning no you’re not off track yes in that circuit there is a plug from the pipe coming out of the left side of the EGR cooler. If you’re looking at it that picture it’s plugged up where it goes into that square block it where the EGR valve is, it was leaking at the clamp fix that that’s how we found out was deleted because it had a plug in it. Joe said I should camp off the red line coming in as well. The turbo is spooling up. There is no oil in that braided line going from the controller to the actuator, but that doesn’t mean that it’s not there already. I ordered a new compressor to get clean air started. There is an exhaust manifold leak I got exhaust manifold last night, gaskets Hines Hines can get me the filter assembly for that BGT filter so the new parts going on our compressor manifold gaskets I’m gonna try to find that filter and reroute those airlines back through it. Joe said that there shouldn’t be any exhaust going back into the manifold back into the engine , he said the shaped tube and leave the telephone pole alone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 I guess is and just a guess is that the oil is in that controller I know it is I could see it so it’s probably not functioning properly and not putting enough air to the actuator. I did take the tube off again and turn the key on and make sure That it was cycling by pushing air so I don’t think you’re off track. I don’t think that Joe’s necessarily I’ll track either. I think that everybody’s got valid things that I need to look at if I could keep the turbo going by getting cleaner to it getting the valves cleaned out I’m gonna take that controller off and I believe when you guys are referring to controller you referring to that with the silver cylinder on top I think that’s what I’ve gathered from all this need to be cleaned out. I put fresh air on it. I’m gonna put on it and start cleaning out these valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 23 minutes ago, Artful dodger said: I guess is and just a guess is that the oil is in that controller I know it is I could see it so it’s probably not functioning properly and not putting enough air to the actuator. I did take the tube off again and turn the key on and make sure That it was cycling by pushing air so I don’t think you’re off track. I don’t think that Joe’s necessarily I’ll track either. I think that everybody’s got valid things that I need to look at if I could keep the turbo going by getting cleaner to it getting the valves cleaned out I’m gonna take that controller off and I believe when you guys are referring to controller you referring to that with the silver cylinder on top I think that’s what I’ve gathered from all this need to be cleaned out. I put fresh air on it. I’m gonna put on it and start cleaning out these valves. Have you been resetting the stroke on the turbo sweep before you start? please don't take offence but please answer the bold type questions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Yes I have and I told the other 2 that you where correct in that if it starts in the right place it runs like a scalded dog however I found that if I let it blow smoke 1 time it changes the dynamic so I’ve really gotta watch not to lug it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 So I guess now my question is do I cut off the EGR flow or not do I cap it where the orange boot is ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 37 minutes ago, fjh said: Have you been resetting the stroke on the turbo sweep before you start? 14 minutes ago, Artful dodger said: So I guess now my question is do I cut off the EGR flow or not do I cap it where the orange boot is ? The job is already done! you don't need to plug it twice! the flow is effectively stopped if its capped where you say it is! you will get a code for low egr flow and the engine light will stay on for that! As well as the codes for the Vgt/ (Wastgate) when it screws up! the problem is is you can.t see what codes are current! EGR will be off the scale at 15 also depending on how many times the VGT screws up will also be at 15! Long as you can learn to live with what you have for the time being and can work and make some food money all will be good! Potter away at the rest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Ya so funny you say that everytime we hook it up to computer it has thrown 15 codes 15 times the signal codes to the cylinders waste gate it’s never thrown an egr code that’s what is confusing and is the soot coming from a leak in exhaust manifold ?? Idk where it’s coming out I can’t get enough soot off the damn thing to find a hotspot so idk we only found where we think the exhaust leak is by taking a pc of hose one end to your ear and move it around until you hear the leak tried soaping it and found that leak from egr tube. Which side of the egr does the air come in first it’s the blue boot under the red one they are on the same side? Reason I ask if it’s coming in that one if red boot isn’t block won’t exhaust go back into the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful dodger Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Turbo sweep you are referring to the position of the rod on the waste gate I assume so u can’t manually push that thing down unless I’m missing something cycle it enough somtimes it goes down if you start rev engine before you shut it off it strokes all the way out I don’t think the controller is working right with all the oil in it answer to ? Yes I mess with it till I get it in position turn on key cycle it and start it it runs good after that another ? We where talking about the sound it makes te Kirby sound it has been changing back and forth from low growl where it seems restricted to Kirby more often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 The 15 codes is the max limit for that system. It will always have them as long as its deleted, from what i have learned in the shop and here... Volvo has your truck by the Peanuts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 34 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: The 15 codes is the max limit for that system. It will always have them as long as its deleted, from what i have learned in the shop and here... Volvo has your truck by the Peanuts... Yup if you want to find a leak get it to make thakirby noise then runn a water hose over things the sound will change when the water hits the leak area! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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