Jump to content

Front Spindles


Recommended Posts

OK guys, here goes, yes after i have everything painted and am putting my front hubs back on, woops hold the wagon, i can,t get the bearnings adjusted just right, after beating the new wheel seals back out i find i have about a .012 wear spot on the bottom of the spindle at the inside bearning, now the ? should i weld it up or have it turned down and put a wear spacer to bring it back to normal, i myself am afraid of the heat from welding it up and turning it back down, of course the bigger lath that i hardler used was just sold and the one that i have won,t turn it, ok experts give me some pointers, :SMOKIE-RT: thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK guys, here goes, yes after i have everything painted and am putting my front hubs back on, woops hold the wagon, i can,t get the bearnings adjusted just right, after beating the new wheel seals back out i find i have about a .012 wear spot on the bottom of the spindle at the inside bearning, now the ? should i weld it up or have it turned down and put a wear spacer to bring it back to normal, i myself am afraid of the heat from welding it up and turning it back down, of course the bigger lath that i hardler used was just sold and the one that i have won,t turn it, ok experts give me some pointers, :SMOKIE-RT: thanks

No heating or welding can be used on a steer spindle butr ok on a drive. If you would magiflux a good spindle with no damage you would find cracks on a large number of spindles and who would want a crack spindle on there steer?

The steer spindle can be changed but if it is on drive then the axle doctor can cut and put a new end on the axle to get out of changing the axle housing. If is a truck for a toy then I would clean up where the wear is where the brearing will slid back all the way and then put it back together and see if it leaks again. glenn

glenn akers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No heating or welding can be used on a steer spindle butr ok on a drive. If you would magiflux a good spindle with no damage you would find cracks on a large number of spindles and who would want a crack spindle on there steer?

The steer spindle can be changed but if it is on drive then the axle doctor can cut and put a new end on the axle to get out of changing the axle housing. If is a truck for a toy then I would clean up where the wear is where the brearing will slid back all the way and then put it back together and see if it leaks again. glenn

Oh the seal will leak for sure with that much slop, you don,t have to clean up nothing the bearning finds its way on real easy, yes it is on the steering, i know better than put heat on it that was sujested by the hill jack way, i have took two right sides wheels off of 2 b,s in the weeds fight wasp and biars just too find out they was worst than mine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK guys, here goes, yes after i have everything painted and am putting my front hubs back on, woops hold the wagon, i can,t get the bearnings adjusted just right, after beating the new wheel seals back out i find i have about a .012 wear spot on the bottom of the spindle at the inside bearning, now the ? should i weld it up or have it turned down and put a wear spacer to bring it back to normal, i myself am afraid of the heat from welding it up and turning it back down, of course the bigger lath that i hardler used was just sold and the one that i have won,t turn it, ok experts give me some pointers, :SMOKIE-RT: thanks

I've facilitated this same repair both ways. A 3/32" 6013 rod melts at a low enough temperature as to not make the spindle a safety hazzard. Removing the spindle and chucking it up needs to take place no matter which method you choose.

Two that I have welded up and machined to the proper diameter had frozen the bearings and destroyed the spindle so there was nothing to lose. To the best of my knowlege, both trucks are still in service.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:SMOKIE-LFT:

I've facilitated this same repair both ways. A 3/32" 6013 rod melts at a low enough temperature as to not make the spindle a safety hazzard. Removing the spindle and chucking it up needs to take place no matter which method you choose.

Two that I have welded up and machined to the proper diameter had frozen the bearings and destroyed the spindle so there was nothing to lose. To the best of my knowlege, both trucks are still in service.

Rob

Thanks, i was thinking about on that line, i just wish i didn,t get rid of the bigger lathe i had, but thats my world

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...