Lookit Dis Mess, Rob

[randyp]

Rob, looks bad, I may not be a good parent. Killer gets to sit out and enjoy our lovely texas summers, never gets to go indoors. This summer, he got melanomas all over drivers side of hood and some on drivers door and a lil on roof. There is absolutely none on other side of hood, other door or not even a trace on fenders. Paint started bubbling up, popping off, now got ugly looking rust. Dont turn me in to any official agencies or anything, am gonna try to fix him. Whatcha think i orta do , lotta sanding, cleaning, and painting? Sorry,,,,Randyp

[Rob]

Rob, looks bad, I may not be a good parent. Killer gets to sit out and enjoy our lovely texas summers, never gets to go indoors. This summer, he got melanomas all over drivers side of hood and some on drivers door and a lil on roof. There is absolutely none on other side of hood, other door or not even a trace on fenders. Paint started bubbling up, popping off, now got ugly looking rust. Dont turn me in to any official agencies or anything, am gonna try to fix him. Whatcha think i orta do , lotta sanding, cleaning, and painting? Sorry,,,,Randyp

Hi Randy, first thing I'd do is remove the hood and D/A the paint off of it complete using 60-80 grit "D" weight sandpaper on a 6" sander. This will leave you with dark spots where the rust is showing. Youi can take a small sandblaster and spot blast the dark areas till they are lightened up a bit, then put on nitrile rubber gloves and soak a clean cloth in phosphoric acid. Wipe the complete hood panel that is now devoid of paint letting the acid "dwell" on the surface but do not let it dry. Dry the panel with another clean cloth. You do not need to rinse with water. This will effectively kill the rust in the pores of the steel panel and etch the surface allowing for better primer or undercoat adhesion. Then paint as usual.

After acidizing the surface I usually use an epoxy based primer/sealer to the bare steel followed by two coats of surfacer primer. This is then blocked down flat either by hand or with a power sander, then topcoated with color and/or clear.

Rob

[randyp]

Hi Randy, first thing I'd do is remove the hood and D/A the paint off of it complete using 60-80 grit "D" weight sandpaper on a 6" sander. This will leave you with dark spots where the rust is showing. Youi can take a small sandblaster and spot blast the dark areas till they are lightened up a bit, then put on nitrile rubber gloves and soak a clean cloth in phosphoric acid. Wipe the complete hood panel that is now devoid of paint letting the acid "dwell" on the surface but do not let it dry. Dry the panel with another clean cloth. You do not need to rinse with water. This will effectively kill the rust in the pores of the steel panel and etch the surface allowing for better primer or undercoat adhesion. Then paint as usual.

After acidizing the surface I usually use an epoxy based primer/sealer to the bare steel followed by two coats of surfacer primer. This is then blocked down flat either by hand or with a power sander, then topcoated with color and/or clear.

Rob

Awright then, thanks Rob. Do you think that was just a piss poor paint job to begin with on that side of the hood? I will fix him and try to do better,,,,randy

[Rob]

Awright then, thanks Rob. Do you think that was just a piss poor paint job to begin with on that side of the hood? I will fix him and try to do better,,,,randy

It could be a multitude of factors. One quite simply, age. For years Mack used a sythetic, or alkyd oil based paint on their trucks. These did not retain their "luster" nearly as long as the later acrylic based products. There is also the possibility of improper preparation of the substrate, or inadequate dry time between under, and topcoats.

Basically what happens in reality is the sun breaks down the ultraviolet screeners in the topcoat allowing penetration to the primer below. The primer has no sunscreeners within it's chemical composition and "kicks" the topcoat off of it. Now exposed and porous, water and humidity can penetrate and you have rusting. I'm sure you've seen or heard the phrase "Non photochemically reactive". This means there are no suscreeners in the product. All topcoat paint is photochemically reactive to resist this breakdown to the sun. This, along with the cost of pigments to make up the final color are what drive the cost of paint so high. Hardeners, accelerators, and most other additives tend to make the product more "user friendly" or faster/slower for shop throughput.

Clearcoats have little to no pigmentation in them. They are very photochemically reactive to resist breakdown. A gallon of clear that costs say $300.00, has much more UV screeners included than say a $100.00 per gallon product.

It's damned crazy what it costs to paint a car or truck these days using quality products that yield long term good results.

Rob

[hatcity]

I see several factors that need to be addressed:

A) age of vehicle

condition of vehicle

C)Use of vehicle

D)condition of "damage"

After careful analysis, it is my conclusion that to properly treat the symptoms shown, a professional, or at least someone TRULY knowledgable in this type of vehicle is needed.

In other words- ROAD TRIP. Take some time off Randy. Bring the truck to Rob and let him fix it.

As long as you have title in your name and in hand, Momma might leave them alone

Just to be sure, you might want to wear a cup at all times

[randyp]

I see several factors that need to be addressed:

A) age of vehicle

condition of vehicle

C)Use of vehicle

D)condition of "damage"

After careful analysis, it is my conclusion that to properly treat the symptoms shown, a professional, or at least someone TRULY knowledgable in this type of vehicle is needed.

In other words- ROAD TRIP. Take some time off Randy. Bring the truck to Rob and let him fix it.

As long as you have title in your name and in hand, Momma might leave them alone

Just to be sure, you might want to wear a cup at all times

By chance, do you even have an inkling of a clue what a XXXL titanium cup would cost me, not to mention the triple XXX size appendage that would need to be attached to it? Well, I might could even just buy me a new "granite" and retire killer! Sides all that, momma might have a secret weapon to penetrate titanium. You trying to get me nootered! too rissky,,,,,,,,randy