Warpman89 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 (edited) hey guys, if any of you you recall from my other thread, i mentioned that my 12 speed was having issues. well, the decision has been made to pull it out and have it rebuilt. i will be doing the removal and installation myself, so i am writing this to get some advice and tricks of the trade for this undertaking. i noticed that the engine and tranny are held in by three mounts; one in the front center of the engine and two on either side of the bell housing. can i pull the tranny and leave the bellhousing on the engine? seems like that would help me avoid what could be a big job. also, while the tranny is out the clutch will be changed, so does the bellhousing have to come off for that or not necessarily?any advice will be greatly appreciated Edited April 14, 2010 by Warpman89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 hey guys, if any of you you recall from my other thread, i mentioned that my 12 speed was having issues. well, the decision has been made to pull it out and have it rebuilt. i will be doing the removal and installation myself, so i am writing this to get some advice and tricks of the trade for this undertaking. i noticed that the engine and tranny are held in by three mounts; one in the front center of the engine and two on either side of the bell housing. can i pull the tranny and leave the bellhousing on the engine? seems like that would help me avoid what could be a big job. also, while the tranny is out the clutch will be changed, so does the bellhousing have to come off for that or not necessarily?any advice will be greatly appreciated Remove the floor boards Jack under the engine bell housing!remove the engine mount rubbers on the rear this means the top ones as well!This lets you have room to lower the engine and trans for removal.You may have to remove one side at a time to get the upper rubbers out!I highly sugest going in thru the bottom cover and removing the clutch from the fly wheel it make everything much easier with the clutch left with the trans!don't forget to Remove the clutch linkage.If this is the first time out for the trans the rh engine mount bolts will be in from the top down you may have to cut the heads off em to remove em install em with the bolts up from the bottom on install, MARK ALL THE AIR LINES apon removall!My hints for now if ya need more help just ask! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 We usually raise the truck (or at least the front) about 12" off the ground. It is easier to work on and get the trans under the fuel tanks while on the trans jack. Like fjh said you can jack under the clutch housing to raise and lower. After the mounts are removed we bolt angle irons legs on the side of the clutch housing for safty and to get the floor jack out of the way. For installation the only trick we've found is to install studs (or bolts with the heads cut off) in the clutch housing to help with alighment. After the trans is in place you can pull the studs and INSTALL THE BOLTS WITH LOCTITE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 We usually raise the truck (or at least the front) about 12" off the ground. It is easier to work on and get the trans under the fuel tanks while on the trans jack. Like fjh said you can jack under the clutch housing to raise and lower. After the mounts are removed we bolt angle irons legs on the side of the clutch housing for safty and to get the floor jack out of the way. For installation the only trick we've found is to install studs (or bolts with the heads cut off) in the clutch housing to help with alighment. After the trans is in place you can pull the studs and INSTALL THE BOLTS WITH LOCTITE.To add to Daves coments,Another trick is to pull the drivers fuel tank as he air tank has to come out anyway it makes things a bit easier4 bolts and the crossover line and its off as long as you got a fork lift,this way you don't need to lift the truck as high. We have a set of chains with hooks on em to bolt to the bellhousing once the trans is out we hang the engine from the engine mount where the rubbers go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 To add to Daves coments,Another trick is to pull the drivers fuel tank as he air tank has to come out anyway it makes things a bit easier4 bolts and the crossover line and its off as long as you got a fork lift,this way you don't need to lift the truck as high. We have a set of chains with hooks on em to bolt to the bellhousing once the trans is out we hang the engine from the engine mount where the rubbers go!I do the same thing with chains and hooks on the transmission frame mounts to support the engine while the trans is out. Buy, borrow, or rent a GOOD transmission jack. Don't screw around and get yourself hurt trying to use something "hodge podge" to get the job done. That trans although aluminum cased, is damned heavy as you'll discover. I bought an OTC jack with Mack adapters and it is unbelieveably easy to use and safe.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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