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Sand Or Soda Blast?


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I'M DOING A CAB-OFF RESTR. ON MY B61. WHAT IS THE BEST/ EASIEST WAY TO CLEAN RUST/SCALE ETC. OFF OF FRAME RAILS, SPRINGS, AXLES ETC., TO READY FOR PRIMER & PAINT? ALL ADVICE APPRECIATED......RUSTYDOG

Soda will not touch rust. It is perfect for paint removal and will not etch glass. Soda can cost a little more than plastic media as the media itself cannot be reused.

If you are doing a complete frame go with sand after stripping bare of all mountings, spring hangers and such. If you blast leaf springs, take them apart as the sand will chew them up over time with usage.

Ask your blaster to use green, or brown "foundry sand". It is much easier on the surface and does not "etch" near as badly as most others.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Soda will not touch rust. It is perfect for paint removal and will not etch glass. Soda can cost a little more than plastic media as the media itself cannot be reused.

If you are doing a complete frame go with sand after stripping bare of all mountings, spring hangers and such. If you blast leaf springs, take them apart as the sand will chew them up over time with usage.

Ask your blaster to use green, or brown "foundry sand". It is much easier on the surface and does not "etch" near as badly as most others.

Rob

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Hi, mine was sand blasted, the soda guy ran a mile. cost me 750.00 aud to get chassis, crossmembers blasted. they came up like new.

Grant

Sand on the heavier members such as frame(s) are unexcelled for it's qualities.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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What about glass beading the frame? What qualities will this have?

mike

Better have barrels of money to pay for the barrels of glass beads you will need as it is very slow going......

It would leave a satin finish at a terrific cost.

Glass beads are poor at paint removal in comparison to other methods and do not really do well with pitted rush either. It will work, just takes a long time.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Better have barrels of money to pay for the barrels of glass beads you will need as it is very slow going......

It would leave a satin finish at a terrific cost.

Glass beads are poor at paint removal in comparison to other methods and do not really do well with pitted rush either. It will work, just takes a long time.

Rob

I'm curious as to how many choices you are saying? I'm used to applying paint stripper and use sand blasting the rust and hard to get places. I'm not comfortable any longer with chemical smells, they seem to penetrate the walls and never go away.

But I still believe getting the job done right.

mike

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I'm curious as to how many choices you are saying? I'm used to applying paint stripper and use sand blasting the rust and hard to get places. I'm not comfortable any longer with chemical smells, they seem to penetrate the walls and never go away.

But I still believe getting the job done right.

mike

Sandblasting is about the only cost effective way to remove rust on heavy members. Chemical stripping is still a very viable method to remove paint coatings. I prefer the media, or soda blast due to turnaround time, and when wages, and employee costs are included, is less expensive. Either way still requires finish sanding for cleanup after stripping.

Glass beads are great for finish work on decorative metal pieces or items sent to be plated. Glass beads are very fragile and do not agressively "eat" away at the surface of what is being blasted. That is why the surface looks dull, and polished when done.

I've been evaluating a product called Soy Gel. It is manufactured by a company in Bloomington, IL, (Franmar) and is right on the way to one of my navigation sites. This product is non hazardous, and is made from soybeans. Supposedly it works as well as methylene cloride paint stripper but slower. It also does not require a large area to be covered in plastic to keep evaporation rate down. I've got some sample bottles to test on a truck hood that is original paint, and two repaints. Also it is water neutalized and can be washed down the drain. This says nothing about the stripped paint coating though.

I'll keep you posted to it's usefullness.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Jim (Phantom309) sand blasted his hole truck, top to bottom, inside out.

Looks great. The Chassis could almost be show quality.

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=6853&st=40

GLENN

GRANDKIDS :Gods little gift to us for not killing our kids while they were growing up

All I want, is just to be luv'd and for my Check Engine light to go out on my Volvo.

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