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Clutch Adj Ring Frozen ?


m5040
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I have what was reported to be a newer clutch. No free play and when I attempted to adjust it, the adjuster will not turn and I am affraid to break the adjuster. It is a pull type clutch with a 3/4" hex type adjuster. It is not the type that you push in like a slack adj, it has a piece of flat steel (like a box wrench) that you unbolt to get at the adjuster. When I put a wrench on it, the engine turns over before the clutch ring moves.

This happens with the clutch pedal depressed.

This is supposed to be a new improved way of clutch adj?, I would rather have the old style with the slots and OTC adj tool. The lock plate is difficult to get back on, it is not even a 12 point style, it is 6 point, so the adj has to be just right or it won't line the attaching bolt up, pain in the a%$........ (the adjuster moves a little each way which appears to be the backlash at the worm gear)

DOES ANYONE HAVE A WAY OF FREEING THE RING UP ? Is the adjuster strong enough or will it break with little force?

I will try the PB blaster and let it soak.......The truck has sat for 4 years. HEEEELP, I dont want to pull it apart

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I have what was reported to be a newer clutch. No free play and when I attempted to adjust it, the adjuster will not turn and I am affraid to break the adjuster. It is a pull type clutch with a 3/4" hex type adjuster. It is not the type that you push in like a slack adj, it has a piece of flat steel (like a box wrench) that you unbolt to get at the adjuster. When I put a wrench on it, the engine turns over before the clutch ring moves.

This happens with the clutch pedal depressed.

This is supposed to be a new improved way of clutch adj?, I would rather have the old style with the slots and OTC adj tool. The lock plate is difficult to get back on, it is not even a 12 point style, it is 6 point, so the adj has to be just right or it won't line the attaching bolt up, pain in the a%$........ (the adjuster moves a little each way which appears to be the backlash at the worm gear)

DOES ANYONE HAVE A WAY OF FREEING THE RING UP ? Is the adjuster strong enough or will it break with little force?

I will try the PB blaster and let it soak.......The truck has sat for 4 years. HEEEELP, I dont want to pull it apart

Air Hammer....... Make sure when you remove the lock strap that you put the bolt back on before trying to adjust it.. then put a wrench on the adjuster (3/4) dont forget the helper in the cab to hold the clutch down, then while trying to turn the adjuster Clockwise rattle the clutch cover with the air hammer, its never failed me yet on a frozen clutch, Warning it may get dusty so wear safety glasses and possibly a dust mask. just a quick tip.. when it does finnally move turn the flat of the adjuster parrallel with the long side of the lock strap.

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And then when you get thru with the adjustment install a dust cover on the bottom. I have replaced to many wore out clutchs due to dirt inside of the housing. Some guys think it takes too much time to put the bolts back in the cover so they throw the cover away.If i found a mechanice throwing away the dust cover he would get nothen but clutch jobs for a month.

glenn akers

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I tried it, hammered away and used the 3/4 wrench with the clutch depressed, thought it was going, then it got easy,,,, doubt! Then hard, then easy..... Took out the adjuster and it didn't break the roll pin, looked at wheel inside the clutch (with a mirror) and a tooth chipped a little.

Tomorrow I will call spicer and see if they have any ideas since it is their abortion. I am sure they would like to hear how their products work in real life.

If they have no answers, maybe I will try using a butane tourch on the clutch cover with the engine ideling, heating the area of the ring, then try it again.

The clutch is a 14", I would think this kinda small for a EM6-275, maybe that is why it needs adj!

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I tried it, hammered away and used the 3/4 wrench with the clutch depressed, thought it was going, then it got easy,,,, doubt! Then hard, then easy..... Took out the adjuster and it didn't break the roll pin, looked at wheel inside the clutch (with a mirror) and a tooth chipped a little.

Tomorrow I will call spicer and see if they have any ideas since it is their abortion. I am sure they would like to hear how their products work in real life.

If they have no answers, maybe I will try using a butane tourch on the clutch cover with the engine ideling, heating the area of the ring, then try it again.

The clutch is a 14", I would think this kinda small for a EM6-275, maybe that is why it needs adj!

Tomorrow I will call spicer and see if they have any ideas since it is their abortion. I am sure they would like to hear how their products work in real life. good luck with that! they will likly try to sell you a solo clutch you think you got problems now!

Try this Its mean and its a last resort!

Remove the adjuster completly (take out both 3/8 bolts that hold it in and remove it! Now With brakes applyed Fire it up And pop the clutch Right out and right back in quickly do this twice or three times stop the engine check for free pedal If it has changed and progressing keep doing this till ya got what you need then put the lock back in ! THIS IS A LAST RESORT FIX! It can and does work but be ready to shut the engine off as u do this it can wind the clutch up on you, if your not carfull!

just somthing else to try!

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The clutch is a 14", I would think this kinda small for a EM6-275, maybe that is why it needs adj!

Every ENDT 676 (EM6 285) Maxidyne that I've ever worked on had the 14" double disc pull type clutch with the "pot" type flywheel. Those put out 285 H.P. and 1080 ft. lbs. of torque and that 14" clutch held it just fine.

On the old type adjusters where you pry the adjuster ring with a bar, I've had to stick a long drift up in there against the lugs on the adjuster ring and hit the drift with a good sized hammer to get the ring turning.

I haven't yet encountered a "quick adjust" that was jammed though.

I like that method that FJH suggested!

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Sounds very tempting to try the engine running, clutch stab before all the heating and prying. I have been on hold with spicer now for 15 min and counting.

On the clutch size issue, I have another truck, a RD steel nose that has the ETZ675 (235 hp) and it has a 15 1/2 in clutch, with less HP/torque. Just worried somebody short changed it..... And I wanted to turn it up to a 300+

Got a spicer tech now, he needs a part number.....Can you put the old guy on????

The answer is.... The stamped lock tab means the clutch was rebuilt by some other manufacturer, if it had the push-to-lock tab it would have indicated it was original spicer.

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Sounds very tempting to try the engine running, clutch stab before all the heating and prying. I have been on hold with spicer now for 15 min and counting.

On the clutch size issue, I have another truck, a RD steel nose that has the ETZ675 (235 hp) and it has a 15 1/2 in clutch, with less HP/torque. Just worried somebody short changed it..... And I wanted to turn it up to a 300+

Got a spicer tech now, he needs a part number.....Can you put the old guy on????

The answer is.... The stamped lock tab means the clutch was rebuilt by some other manufacturer, if it had the push-to-lock tab it would have indicated it was original spicer.

It might just break loose, but there are some other things that might happen also. The clutch pedal might hit the floor before you can get it out of gear, then you might take an unexpected wild ass ride. If you try it with the parking brake on you might twist the drive line. I would be inclined to try it myself, outside the shop, with nothing in the way, and my hand on the shutdown.

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I got it !!!! I tried everything. I even went as far as starting the engine without the adjuster in place, stepped on the clutch pedal, reved the engine, hit the clutch brake, stalled it in 5th, nothing moved it. More warming with a butane tourch (prob didn't do anything), said a prayer, turned the clutch so the opening where the adj goes was at 3 or 9 o'clock, put a Craftsman screwdriver on one of the adj ring teeth with the handle jamed into the bellhousing, pryed the flywheel with another screwdriver, watched the Craftsman bend (slightly) like a bow from an bow/arrow, used the air chiesel at the same time and bang, it moved. Put the adj back in, a bunch of truns and now I have my 2" of freeplay. THANKS ALL FOR THE ADVICE !!!!!! :D

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I got it !!!! I tried everything. I even went as far as starting the engine without the adjuster in place, stepped on the clutch pedal, reved the engine, hit the clutch brake, stalled it in 5th, nothing moved it. More warming with a butane tourch (prob didn't do anything), said a prayer, turned the clutch so the opening where the adj goes was at 3 or 9 o'clock, put a Craftsman screwdriver on one of the adj ring teeth with the handle jamed into the bellhousing, pryed the flywheel with another screwdriver, watched the Craftsman bend (slightly) like a bow from an bow/arrow, used the air chiesel at the same time and bang, it moved. Put the adj back in, a bunch of truns and now I have my 2" of freeplay. THANKS ALL FOR THE ADVICE !!!!!! :D

Whew!

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I got it !!!! I tried everything. I even went as far as starting the engine without the adjuster in place, stepped on the clutch pedal, reved the engine, hit the clutch brake, stalled it in 5th, nothing moved it. More warming with a butane tourch (prob didn't do anything), said a prayer, turned the clutch so the opening where the adj goes was at 3 or 9 o'clock, put a Craftsman screwdriver on one of the adj ring teeth with the handle jamed into the bellhousing, pryed the flywheel with another screwdriver, watched the Craftsman bend (slightly) like a bow from an bow/arrow, used the air chiesel at the same time and bang, it moved. Put the adj back in, a bunch of truns and now I have my 2" of freeplay. THANKS ALL FOR THE ADVICE !!!!!! :D

Great news.

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