tanbuddy

Ive only been driving full time for a few months, and wanted to see what other guys are doing coming to stops tolls ect. truck is a 10 speed. If traffic is light, Ill brake easily and go from 10-9-8-7-maybe 6th around 1200 or 1000 rpm. When the truck is at about an idle in 7th or 6th (about10 mph) I put it in N and bake the last few mph. The only time i range downshift is if Im down a hill with a stop at the bottom. If i have a hard stop like a light suddenly changes or someone pulls out infront of me, i brake hard and dont worry about downshifting, when the engine gets to an idle i put it in N. I find a gear after im stopped or back away from the car that pulled in front of me What does everyone else do in situations like these?

I was at northampton county last winter, and the winter before.

it wasnt going to be a steerable axle, more like a regular trailer axle. No computer stuff, the truck is a 92, so its all mecahnial. Maybe a hidden dump switch would be a good idea. Run the weight equal, and when its spins hit the dump switch. I already have one i use on the spread axle trailer to make it turn easier. On the 3 axle trailer it dumps the air and brakes on the front trailer axle.

I wouldnt have a problem running equalized,i could adjust the pressure with the knob for euual weight. I would probablly need to run duals on the tag or at least a wide tire. I wanted the 20k on the drive more for traction, especially in the rain. In the snow i could adjust it so just about all the weight is on the drive, i dont think the scales would evev be open then. The truck is going to have the same number of axles, so i didnt think about a new door tag. right now its 12000/19000/19000 on the door sticker.

Im working for a guy that does bulk cement, and he was thinking of converting his truck from a regular tandem to a single axle with a lift tag. It is just like how a tri axle dump is set up. A lever to lift/lower the axle, and a know to adjust the air pressure. He already did this to his other truck and has seen good results in fuel mileage. I had a couple questions: The truck has 34000 on the tandem now, 17 and 17. Is it legal to run 20 on the drive and 14 on the lift axle? He wants to run it at 23 on the drive and 11 on the tag because its a 23000 drive axle, but I know you cant go over 20 on any one axle. Would it be ok to run just one tire on the lift axle insted of a dually setup. I see some tri axle dumps with this. I also heard that over a 10,000 axle you need a wide based super single above a 355 in with, but that was from someone out west. This setup will run pa and nj. Maybe md and va and ny. I found a goodyear 285 75 22.5 rated at over 7,000 per tire, that would hold 14k and should be legal in these states. It works out to about 620 lbs per inch of with. thanks for any help

that logging truck in the first pic looks so bad ass..What year would that have been?

what year did that motor come out?

What is the difference between the R model and the RS Value-Liner? They look the same to me.

is the rear crossmember strong enough to pull a good size trailer, or would it bend ?

That is nice...looks really heavy!

what do you guys run 50k rear and a 22 front? My poor u model dump was a tractor, its only 34k/12k axles, and i think the front springs are only 10.5s. It gets a little scary with 15 tons on it, its right around 51k at that point.

I was thinking of getting some 3/8" or 1/2" inch thick angle iron, 4 or 5 inches high or whatever will slide in the back of the frame by 3 inches wide. Make it kind of like a double frame without the top flange for the last foot or two of the tractor frame, bolt that through the web with 3 3/4" bolts on each side. Notch the plate for this angle weld it, then slide the whold thing into the back of the frame. Drill holes bolt it and its good. Depending on how low the pintle hook is I cold add angles on the sides from the frame down to the bottom of the plate. I think the hitch height of the trailer is 30 inches which is about the height of the bottom of the frame, so the plate might not have to hang down much and the angle braces might not bee needed.

72 on a tandem wow that is crazy, we can only put 73280 on a triaxle here!

How much are those tandem trucks allowed to haul on the road down in the TN/KY/WV area? Here in pa we can put 58400 on a tandem on regular roads, and 56000 on interstates..Nj you can put 70K on tandems, dont know about their interstate law thogh

I had mixed results in motorcycle tanks, never tried it on a truck tank though

Ok, Bolting a 3/4" plate sounds like it will be the plan then.

Here is a link to a plate with the notches in it so it slides into the frame a little. Ignore the bumpers and stuff hanging off the sides, I was just using this pic to show frame notching. http://www.eztruckaccessories.com/hitch-plates/1809040.html

Ive been kicking around the idea of getting a tractor and getting into some bulk cement hauling. i would also need the truck to tow a 20 ton eager beaver tag trailer (almost 50,000 gvw). Typically it will haul a john deere 410 so the backhoe and trailer will be around 25000. With the frame sloped down in the back how would i mount the plate to the frame. Would it be strong enough recessed into the frame a 1/4 inch or so then welded all around? The frames on the very end of a tractor are typically only 4 or 5 inches high there, that has me a little concerned. How thick of a plate would work? 1/2 inch ok, or go thicker? I was thinking of something like this http://www.eztruckaccessories.com/hitch-plates/1809040.html, then just make a notch in it so it will slid onto the frame 1/2 inch or so.

When did mack go from the endt675 to the E6 engine name? Did much change in the actual engine or was it mostly just a name change?

If the rear is always supposed to be powered how does only the front get power? confusing

I kinda get the idea how they work, however mine must not be working right. Its a 99 with 46k rears, i think the gear ratios is around a 4.5 or so. I use the truck to plow, the other day i had the bed up while plowing in the lot b/c i was almost out of salt. I noticed that with the divider not locked, both the front and rear axle would both spin about 70 % of the time when i was stuck in the snow. 2 out of 10 just the rear would spin.1 out of ten jsut the front would spin, only if the rear was on pavement and the front was on the windrow of snow. I think it sounded a little funny when it did this. With the dividor locked both axles spun together as expected. Is something possibly broke in the rear that my truck behaves this way? It drives great never noticed it doing anyhting wierd.

the way that i thought it worked was it acted like a 3rd open differential between the 2 axles to let them both have power all the time but spin at different speeds going around a turn. It would also allow just one axle to spin if 1 was on snow or in the air. Locking it in was locking the 2 axles together so they would both get power if one was on snow and the other pavemetn. The more i read the more i beleive im wrong, could somene explain how they work

I do a lot of concrete work for a living, The minimum i would do is 5 inch with steel reinforcemet if the truck is going to be empty, but i would rather do 6 inch. The last time i did a municipal garage floor for plow trucks and such it was 12 imch with rebar at 4 and 8 inches high. That was way overkill but its what the township wanted

My truck has a TRL1076 5 speed transmission, and it sucks when trying to shift going up a hill. The rpm drop between each gear is huge. Is there any kind of splitter i could put behind this thing to make it like a 10 speed, splitting each gear if i need it? thanks

what year did the puff limter start on these trucks?