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you just added about 20 mph to your truck. When you get to where you can overhaul it, you can get the RTOO kit and you will add top end and will be able to run far fewer rpm's, which will save you about 1.5 mpg. Also, adding 300 BHP to your engine will put more money in your bank. EDIT: I checked out your set up, and guessed your current tyre size and your runnunig just about 1975 rpm @v=75 mph. If you were to go with an RTOO, t200 (.60), or a RBS (.64) trans mission, you would be able to still have a .73 OD (as opposed to th RTO 14609's .74 OD) and you can have the .62 OD which would allow you to run v=75 mph @about 1650 rpm. Saving you a ton of cash in fuel costs. Coincidently, the fuel savings would buy you 3 of these RTOO transmissions hands down. Plus the truck would run at around 100 mph (perhaps a little less) and give you the best of both worlds. I was up all night and got home from the doctor pretty late, so I hope I didn't miss anything. I'm here to help. lol. Good luck!!

With 4.42 rears, you dont need a deep reduction. it will pull a house with a 13 OOD and never flinch. as far as the clutch issues, I can look into it, but I am not sure I can be of any timley help. - My understanding is that clutch mountings are universal, with the exception of over mount or under mount clutch arms. You should, for example be able to add a 15" clutch with no problem. Hmmmmmm..........

perhaps. In fact you may own a 100 trucks with this thing super glued to the frame, however, I still do not recognise it and my goal is to help out on the forum. - I hope I have. I hope that you will join me in finding concrete answers for these truckers and hobbyists that will get them a little closer to where they want to go both on the road and in life. In the end, this fix is chump change and the materials are readily available anywhere there driver, I strongly recommend using google or similar to research the info Ive offered and this way, when you approach a supplier, you can approach him with knowledge and confidence. You might even consider switching to a self steerable unit if your budget is in goodd shape or you could stand a nice end of year tax write off. there are lots of good ones out there. Watson-Chalin is a good bet. God bless and good luck.

i am extremely familiar with lift axles and this is not a design I have seen in the last 30 years. I am not sure what you want to do to proceed in terms of making the design right, replacing the parts that are affected or blow $3800 US on a new suspension + labour. If your budget conscious, you can go to a steel mill and ask for a 1/2"section of AR 400 [145,000 psi yield] which will s set you back $75 USD and a machine shop will precisely duplicate the holes for a few hundred more, I suspect, perhaps less. there are plenty of places that have used lift units for $500 or so, and even a grand is not too shabby.... Sometimes starting over is the way to fly, but be aware that many Mack dealers bill a half hour to drill each hole, so count your bolt holes you need drilled while in the shopping process.. If you have any question, just ask. I'm here to help. good luck there driver. edit: after further review of the photos, the cross member resembles one that was from a peterbilt [but holes are different in pic] and the upright flanges are not likely machine made as these form the gusset and there are no flanges or box shaped webbing to connect the two. .... Hartley in Indiana might be a good try, if you wanna try the used replacement route...also, I suggest you consider making the two 2"box sections a single piece 48"x12"x1/2" flat section and install new mounting studs for length if needed. you can get these at Fastenal and they will custom make them if needed. -- I also recommend you extend the cross member flange the two box sections rest on and try beefing up the hinge with a poly urethane bushing, say from Euclid truck parts and fab a new hinge bracket from that AR 400 I mentioned if you can spare the change. Most of these steps can be done incrementally to lesson the blow to your time and budget... you can also try metal supermarkets for the sections.

I cant edit my posts, so try: eotruckandtrailer.com

i am having issues posting. one message will not post, then the next one does. any help ?

it needs to be a T2050 / 2060 which is a .60 OD. The RTOO 12513 / 14613 can be had exchange saving him some serious cash. here is a guy in chi town: 3835 W. 42nd Street Chicago, IL 60632 Toll Free • 888-481-2514 http://eotruckandtrailer.com/sections/products/Transmissions?product=70 Phone • 773-696-2008 Fax • 773-247-2632 info@generaltruckparts.com

An RTOO 12513 / 14613 rebuilt exchange will do the trick. This gives you 3 overdrives and will give you about v=75 mph @ 1700 rpm in 13th. or about v=89 mph @ 1934.90509333 rpm This is cheap and it works. good luck

this is actually in correct, driver. most HAS ride heights are based on the Air Spring and there is a range for the 57QL411M. It is generally 11.4 [?], 12.6 and 13". Tyre size is not referenced in any manual that is easy to find. BTW: 13" is pretty friggin' high. I concur with the 11.4" Spring height.good luck driver.

hard to guess with out the visi check machine, but I am wondering a bout the wobble. do you have steering stabilisers on those lift axles ? - are they pretty old ? Axle could be acting up at times because it has hit a "rough patch" while the Air Springs are under inflated and thus causing / contributing to a wobble effect. But I doubt it.

About 2.5 mph in OD. Iyour tranny is screaming in 4th, you can try lucas [straight with no gear oil]. My 13'5 never did this, so you may have lots of wear ?You can trade it for an RTOO 12513 / 14613 if you wish. there are several rebuilders that have them, and they are about 2500 - 4000.

Yes. the Boler [aka "Hendrikson"] HAS 380 / 460 is exactly the same unit as the mack unit. The differences are in the front brackets [if made in different model years only] and the shock towers. Mack originally used the 57QL411M Air Spring [there is no such thing as an air bag under a truck, btw] and Boler used the Firestone version, which had Firestone not Mack moulded in the bellow. The replacement Firestone Spring is 57QL414 M and while the Firestone unit tends to use the 70-3582-6041 bracket and 5648 bumper, the Mack uses the 70-3582-6044 bracket and the 5361 bumper. -- the primary differences is the HAS has a 1/2"difference in collapsed height and a 2.55"side stud centre instead of Macks 2.56" side stud centre. The differences are infinitesimal and I suspect that the differences are because Mack has a less oval hole or similar than might be found on the HAS series.... If you are using all original parts from the new supension, or are not mixing mack and boler springs and reuse your original bead plate brackets, none of this will mattter much. Mack now uses good year springs. I think the part number is 1R12-470 and the bellow number is likly to be 566-24-3-097. This unit is metric as opposed used to Firestone being SAE. Bolers plant is on US 62 in Waco, Ohio [Canton area, east of cross truck equipment and freightliner / Mack]. I think that is East Tuskawarus Street, there Driver. I wrote all of this off the top of my head, so there may be a few minor errors, but it is otherwise very accurate. hope this gets you where you wanna go. 3's and 8's my man.

I see several issues here .... I agree the tyres need warmed then measured and the interior of those tyres need to be cleaned very good and rebalanced. Tyres with broken belts will sometimes cause the axles to do this, even make them hop like a rabbit. I cant imagine why folks stretch a truck. A new set of rails is 2600 USD installed on several models, both sides. the rails are 900 USD. JUST THE SAME, i VOTE FOR MEASURING CAREFULLY ON A LEVEL SHOP FLOOR TO BE Sure [sorry, caps lock]...... although bushings will cause some of these symptoms at times, I really think the best thing to do is go to Kenworth and have it put on the VisiCheck [aussie made, I think] and measure the chassis as the first 2 steps. it is about $200 USD and will root out far more than a visual inspection and a torque wrench. also, try backing into a curb stop at a store and see if your axles move. VisiCheck does this, and I seriously doubt this is your issue here, but I have done it, it is free and I have had success on my Air Glide 100 in the past. I did mine at pilot travel centre. Hope this is of some benefit. Tip: you can replace the rails with 12"Dx.375"W Grade 80 rails with a 3.5" flange / 1/2"radius. PG adams in burlington, vt is a good source. Ask for Ashley [?]. good luck

Does Mack still offer the 3.65 TAR ? If not, what is the 3 closet Ratios going both up and down ? Ie: 3.11 3.25 3.42 3.65 3.91 4.09 4.87. I did a lengthly G search and looket several Mack Axle PDFs, but nada. Thanks.

This ENGINE was available in both mechanical AND VMAC versions. The simple way would to add the ECM to it **IF** it does not have one and then ask King Custom ECM to add 400 BHP to it. All in all, this will give you about 827 BHP and around 2750 lbs. / ft. of torque. - Also, at this point, you can set the ECM to what ever you want. Some C-15 Cats are set to 2200 BHP. Good luck!

Hi Rob Thank you. As you can see, I am very well versed in Trucks and Trucking, and I appreciate the time I have been given to help out. If your truck is strictly for hobby use, the RTOO 14613 is still one way to go. A Mac 5, 6, or 7 speed from 1986 thru 1990 ish has a .60 OD - Similar to the RTOO 14613. I found this . It is pretty interesting, weather you decide to go this route or not.Either way, I wish you luck and good fortune. Steve

11R 22.5 Standard Profile tyres run about 501 - 503 revs per mile, I think Michelin had a few 498 revs / mile tyres in the heavier / more rugged designs. Either way, running a mechanical engine at 2200 rpm is costing you about 1-1.5 MPG and that´s a tone of cash going out the stacks. You could rebuild your engine every 2 years for that kind of cash. At 2060 RPM, this is correct. A 3406 B JWAC gets roughly 4 mpg doing this, with 11 R 24.5 tyres on I-65 [sb] in Alabama, which is pretty tame for hills in most places. In the end, you could set your engine to whatever rating you want, and get far better results than to run with your fanny stuck to the seat, right foot on fire, 20 mph up the grades and the windows rolled down just in case you pass out from exhaustion and need to jump free. - for example, a 318 detroit will kill you in the trip times. 22 hours to run nearly non stop from west Illinois to buffalo new york and get there before they open to catch a short nap before heading to Pennsylvania to reload, 130 miles away. That is a very lame route too. Fuel is costing about 0.604677 cents per mile based on 6.2 mpg and 3.749 at the pump. At 4.0 mpg, your fuel is costing you about 0.93725 cents per mile, or a 0.3375 cents per mile cut in pay. Or as much as $1.2 million in lost revenue and dividends, compounded quarterly..... All in all, The reality is, that is a substantial number. You don't need a new truck. It really does not matter if your rig is an antique, what you have under the hood, or dog house for some older guys, makes all the difference in the world. There even little tweaks you can do to pick up a 1/2 mile to the gallon, which will save you a bloody fortune. [not to mention the dividends and compounding you are currently losing out on]. I also recommend you arrange a ride and drive with one of these guys with a King Custom ECM or a Pittsburgh Power Box. You can call and offer some cash to arrange the deal. You can also ask to ride and drive with a guy with a mechanical pump. At 650 BHP and 2450 lbs. / ft., you will gain nearly 40 mph in the hills, running un UD [that's 1.34:1 or underdrive, for those of you who might be gear heads, lol]. Generally, 12R 22.5 tyres offer you about 483 revs / mile reducing your RPM and increasing your maximum road speed a tad more, if desired. - I'd avoid buying these in load range H though, they are $10,000 a set. Load range G is the way to go. These ore offered in several off brands as well. Good Luck!

@ akers: lol. No Comment there big buddy. Happy trails! BTW Rob: The big advantage of a RTOO 14613 is you have 3 overdrives, so you can run in .85 [7 OD / 11th] and .73 [8 DIR / 12th] loaded and you can use .62 [8 OD /13th] when running light (like a load of PVC Pipe, as an example or while empty. Of course with the right BHP and Torque [it really is a combination of the two, Mack missed that in 1986], you can run in .62 more frequently and save a bunch of fuel too. Your right foot will hurt a whole lot less too! Your current drive train combo is costing you between 50 and 200 miles a day, depending on terrain, and about 4 hours in lost productivity. That is at least $1000 bucks a week [+ fuel] you are not realising year over year. Factoring in compounding and lost dividends, you truck is cost you millions in potential revenue that you will never see and can never get back. Once you hit 60 years old, it is all behind you. Those miles become permanently out of reach. - Unless you truck is just a hobby ? If so, then this doesn't make or break you, I suppose. Whatever your goals, I hope this helps. Admins Note: [i did not mean to resurrect such an ancient post, hope no on is offended]

ay there rob It is [T]ratio x [A]ratio x OATD [tyre revs / mile] x V[elovity] [road speed] / 60 = rpm Soooooooo.......... in your case, it is: .87x3.36x501x75 ______________ = about 1830.654 rpm @ v75 mph and 1430 rpm @ v60 mph 60 Conversely, you can rebuild the tranny to an RTOO 14613 and you could use 4.11 or 4.33 rears. Mathematically this is: .62x4.33x501x75 _____________ = 1681.23075 rpm @ v75 mph 60 Also, if you set your engine to 650 BHP and 2450 lbs./ft. it will run like it should. It is not the axles that are the issue, it is that we have weak azzzz engines and we buy huge ratios and jack up the governor sky high cuz it is cheap, wrecking the engine and causing it to pull like a wet noodle. For economy you can set your engine to 650 BHP and run a RTOO 14613 W/ 3.90 REARS and get the following: .62x3.90.501x75 _____________ = 1514.2725 rpm @ v75 mph 60 Coincidently, my favourite spec is: .71[Mack ratio BTW:] x3.55x483x75 ____________________________ = 1521.751875 rpm @ v75 MPH 60 This is done on 12R22.5 Load Range G tyres. [Double Coin still sells these for around $235 USD a piece]. In case you are interested, most of mack's older transmissions [pre 1990 give or take] are .60 which is a double overdrive and so is the Allison RDS Automatic, just for reference. You might consider Bruce Mallinson at Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh to get the power you need. He did my cummins for around $4,000 and it ran great. Good luck ! Steve Edit: Corrected Several typpos, including a "," which is in the EU Format and does not apply to this Formula and several grammatical and spelling errors as well as the Math Formula Layout in 1st Paragraph. Also added a Link: for reference.Time Stamp: SA 10SEP11 12:50 CST (GMT -6). Goal: The original goal was to assit the OP in his quest and to share. I sincerely hope this helps!