Rob

A little heat around the threads of the wheel cylinder and penetrating oil as the area cools followed by a little vibration from an air hammer somewhere close to the area ususally works. You do not need enough heat to destroy seals, just get the area a couple hundred degrees, (warm). The cooling down will draw the penetrant into the threads as it cools and the vibration helps it. Rob

save yourself the headache and rebuild the "Selectair" valve also. Completely rebuild that shift cover with all new rings, (teflon rings also). That shift cover is cast iron and heavy. It also has locating dowels in the cover into the top of the transmission case and can bit a bit tricky to get to pop loose. Rob

Just got off the phone with him. He got loaded in Washington state and is headed to Houston without problems, (damn lucky considering his mount). Says he has taken many photos of his trip and will post them if any interest. Doing really well making good time. Has another load of steel headed for Pennsylvania waiting on him so hopefully he'll get some home time. Lot of miles covered so far. Rob

He caught an unexpected load to the left coast of this country after dropping a load south of me near St. Louis. I'm hoping he was able to secure a load for the return trip. As slow as it has been for you truckers out there, going out of your "normal" operating range is not out of line. A living still has to be earned. Even if you drive a Pete. Just hope there are ample repair facilities on his journey, otherwise, I might have to go get him. Being the nice guy that I am, I would do that. Rob

He caught an unexpected load to the left coast of this country after dropping a load south of me near St. Louis. I'm hoping he was able to secure a load for the return trip. As slow as it has been for you truckers out there, going out of your "normal" operating range is not out of line. A living still has to be earned. Even if you drive a Pete. Just hope there are ample repair facilities on his journey, otherwise, I might have to go get him. Being the nice guy that I am, I would do that. Rob

The yeller thing with rectangular headlamps doesn't look much like a Mack to me. Rob

The right front frame rail section behind the shock absorber will have the serial number stamped into the frame on your truck. Also the passenger side door tag should if it has not been changed. Rob

The Mack dealer is open on the holiday? Why am I at work then? Cause I'm still fixxing broken plumbing from the recent freeze we've had round here. Rob

Agree, the term "Boost a load" has been around here for many years. I never thought of it as a regional term, but have never seen it branded onto anything either. Rob

You are very correct on sourcing the filters through a Mack dealer. To use Carquest branded filters is near twice the cost for the same filters. Rob

I don't know how late my service manuals represent. The newest engine is called an ENDT1000 and not an E9 series. The highest horse rating is also 400 for that engine. They do cover my 73, and my 1978 Macks quite nicely, and I seem to recall the last reprint date as 3/79. Very sorry if my information has been misleading or confusing with your issue. There are obviously "updates" that I am unaware of. Rob

I've got the same style on an E6-350 at the shop. It has a Fram filter installed. I'll relay the numbers tonight if someone else hasn't by then. Rob

Yes Glenn. I have learned more on the kitchen table than I ever could in school as I found formal education too "structured", and could not hold my interest. Grandma never did like me tearing into a Rochester, Holley, or Carter carburator on the kitchen table, but grandpa always would overide her, (finally got my own bench in the basement). I guess Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and Clinton engines were the final straw. When I discovered how to repair and paint wrecked cars, I got the garage! Rob

The spacing on the front bumper for direct driven from crankshaft hydraulic piston pump is what I thought also. The one incomplete chassis appears to have a lift axle installed. I've never seen a mixer have a third axle unless it is the hydraulic lifted one called a "boost a load", (around here) on the rear that stores up by the discharge chute. Rob

As FJH suggests: Remove the complete shift cover assembly. When the cover is on a bench and inverted, there will be two shift forks; One fork is flat with rounded ends, (reverse/forward), the other is a round ball, (gear selection). Remove the capscrews from the endplate of the reverse shift cylinder and remove the endplate. Remove the set bolt from the reverse shifting fork so it slides easily on it's shift rail within the cover. Center the ball ended shift fork within it's travel, and pull the reverse shifting piston from it's bore towards the rear of the housing by using your fingers to force the shift rail to the rear. As FJH states there is a centering, or lockout pin the precludes the engagement of reverse if the main transmission fork is not is the neutral position, (centered). I have a photo of the shift cover and will send it to you. There is also a proceedure how to properly adjust, and center the forks upon reinstallation. You will need to have a supply of air, fittings, and a regulator set to 60psi to do this alignment, (from memory). It will also have much less room for error if the universal joint at the back of the transmission is disconnected to ensure the tranmission is in neutral. If you have either a loose locknut, or take it loose to re ring the piston on the high/low cylinder, you must readjust for neutral or you will never be able to select reverse. I've only had this one Mack air shifted transmission so I am no expert by any means. My experience is derived through trial and error, then analysis. But it does seem to work for me. I would think that an E7-400 would be adequate for power citing that it is a mechanical engine. Never have seen an E7 series myself, (too new). Rob

Final "fitting out" for the end user would make sense to me. Rob

That is a great looking conversion, almost like they are factory. Rob

My interest also. Rob

Sounds like incentive to leave the state of California behind. Rob

Interior parts for the R model trucks are damn near non existant any longer. They were not supported very well by Mack from the get go. I had mine remade by a local upholstry shop. Rob

Give up???? WTF is that? The problem still exists and will not go away by looking at it. There is a solution at hand and many have given good advice to get you through the problem. Implement any one of the proposals and your problem will be history. Rob

That engine and plumbing sure looks like an E-6 series engine to me from this vantage point. Rob

Five dollar words? From me? I'm someone who failed english composition class three semesters, but kept on to graduate high school at 24 years of age, (this is true). Naw, I'm not overly smart, nor stupid, just determined. I didn't have parents so I charted my own path of progression. To be overloaded is defeat. Don't be that way. I think all contributions are valuable. Please continue to come forth when you have knowledge or ideas as we all benefit. Rob

FJH is correct, that is the compound low reduction cylinder. You will want to rebuild it also while you have the floor section out of the cab as it is very easy to get to. The reverse shift cylinder is the one at the rear on the rt. side of the transmission. The cylinder that has the external bolts running the outside of the cylinder is the high/low range cylinder. It is about centerline of the transmission. Rob

Hi Herb, I just read your post again, sorry if I seemed to "step" on your idea conveyance as to distorting the yokes from hammer impact. I tend to think only in a straight line of progression and have blinders for all else when engrossed in thought. Certainly do agree with you and have seen stuck universals taken out as you detail several times, just not by myself. If you have never used one of these "Tiger Tools" u-joint pullers it really would be worth the purchase, or demo. I had the tool with cables attached, and it was not near as easy, safe, or fast to use. My 1/2" impact has no problem breaking the most stubborn joint loose, (so far). I also have the cap installer for reassembling the joint. I have found that you need to pack the needle bearings in the caps with grease before hitting them with the impact wrench. I only had to pick the needle rollers off the floor once to learn that lesson! Sure hope Chris gets his problem fixxed. Damn frustrating to lay in a driveway with improvised tools trying to accomplish something like this. Rob