j hancock

I am not a tire expert....

OK got that out of the way.

My understanding is that there are no tubeless replacements for 24" rubber. You could get bias or radial tube type tires for 24".

22.5" rubber is the tubeless replacement for 20" tube type rubber.

24.5" rubber is the tubeless replacement for 22" tube type rubber.

If unsure of what rims and rubber you have, DO NOT MIX styles of tires and rims between tube type and tubeless when mounting.

The result of an incorrect match up will be SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH!!!

1200R24 is just a bit bigger than 1100R24. BOTH would be a tube type radial construction tire utilizing a multi piece rim assembly.

Jim

Mack front axle FA507, FA512, FA514, FA517 use king pin set 301SQ46B.

FA505, FA511, FA534 use set 301SQ45A.

FA522, FA523, FA532, FA536, W536, FA537, W537 use set 301SQ47CPI.

Info for your Mack project or for cross reference.

Jim

Where did you find the cowl board and what was the price?

Restoration Specialties has the product. About $25.00 a sheet plus shipping.

814-467-9842

http://restorationspecialties.com/

Jim

Does DMD now have Cummins in both there LTL'S or do they have a third one now.one used to have 1090 HALL-SCOTT in it but there two hre both have the RED BALL CUMMINS emblem on them.Bob D

DMO has Cummins in both the LTL and the LTH.

The LTL had a Hall Scott in it when he bought it. It now has a supercharged Cummins in it as it was built brand new from Mack.

The Hall Scott engine was put into a third LTL that he bought from Jack Frost. He then sold that truck to a fellow in Australia.

Jim

The original part number for the hinge is 4QM12P23. It is NLA from Mack. It indeed was the same part on everything that used butterfly hoods from ED 1 ton trucks to the DM800.

So, A's, B's, E's, L's, R's and DM need them. Just cut to length.

I have found a Ford part 40-16632 from Mac's Ford parts that worked ok on an ED. It is 34 inches long. The shape is "off" a little tiny bit but so far the function and general look is ok.

This hinge is not really the structure of the hood so I am going to experiment with welding two together to make a longer one for a B75. Its functions is to keep the two hood halves together.

I haven't tried but have even thought of just taking two that make up the right length and just butt the two pcs between the end caps and it will be captured. Unless someone is really looking for the "gap" it will be pretty tough to spot.

I hope Mack will tell Barry the maker at some point so another batch could be run. The part has been gone for about a year. The rolling tool for this part I doubt has been junked. We just need to find the company and get some raw stock flowing.

Sheller Globe which made many cabs for Mack was in the Midwest so there is a shop somewhere out there that has it.

After we get hood strips figured out, lets work on vent windows!

Jim

If you are a DD fan and a Mack fan, I would offer the suggestion to get a R700 and put the V-12 in. The factory made a few.

A V-12 in a B would require a stretched hood at a minimum. You would also need the cast aluminum radiator to have a chance in hell to get the width. So now you are custom making EVERYTHING!!

Motor mounts, trans mounts, engineering a clutch linkage, relocating fuel tanks, upgrading to stiffer front springs.

Lots of stuff to consider.

Too bad the conversation wasn't more positive for you.

It may be like money in the bank but the number of people that have ability to make change on a purchase like this aren't on every street corner either.

Time to keep tabs on it and maybe check back. Catch him on a day where your cash in hand looks better than the truck and all the "millionaires" who are waiting on it.

Jim

Hope the conversation goes well today. Very few people can say they own a Big Al.

Did you ever buy the shed you went to look for? You might be sleeping in it!

Jim

Well they opened a Harbor Freight 2 towns over so I guess it'll get a little hot after I go there...

One wild Sat. night on the island!

Good Stuff! LMAO!

I was worried the burning was from hanging around naughty girls.

Or there was another fire in your neighborhood.

Yes indeed, service with a smile....

I would change both filters. Fairly easy to do and then take a little spin and see if mileage changes.

Maybe also visit the water separator and do a little maint if so equipped.

Does it seem like there is more smoke out the pipe than before?

Is there a brake that "hung up" and is now trying to slow you down?

I have used Lucas and it seems ok. I figured once that the money I saved on fuel was offset by the purchase price of the Lucas additive. So, sort of a wash.

On another vehicle it did seem to help clean the crap out of the system. So, that was a plus.

Jim

There are three gaskets for the window.

One gasket has a rib that goes into the groove on the window frame and the tail of this gasket will contact the sheetmetal of the cab. It will have to be trimmed on a 45 for the corners and trimmed where the corner reinforcement of the frame is located so everything will lay flat.

Put this gasket on the frame and then put the frame in the cab opening. Then you will have to screw the frame to the cab. It takes about 10 screws or so per frame.

The second gasket goes into the aluminum frame and this will receive the glass. It is sort of an L shape. Will have to be trim in the corners like before.

Now you put the glass into this rubber and it will just sit there.

The third gasket is sort of a rounded taper shape that goes all the way around and the square section locks the glass into the aluminum frame. The taper will show when done.

Use soap such as DL or a pumice free GoJo to help lubricate the rubber when trying to insert the key of the first gasket into the frame. Soap isn't needed too much for the other gaskets.

Also, when installing the first gasket DON"T stretch it out or when you try to cut the 45 in the corners it will pull back leaving a gap. It will seem tempting to stretch but it will screw you up!!! Use a little 3M black weatherstrip adhesive on the 45's. There is no need to use w/s adhesive on anything else. Just a little at the 45's

Hope this might help.

Jim

Update. Pulled left wheel off, seems the brakes are fine. Got a leaky wheel seal, let some grease drip on the drum and that's all. Picking up new seals this week.

Good Deal! Hope the other side is ok also.

It is time to play with the racecar anyways.

As a a wise man once said, Keep it simple stupid and don't make it more complicated than it really is.

Remember racecar spelled backwards is racecar.

Jim

Hello RH, Can't answer the question for you. Everything I have is 8 1/4 tubeless.

With regards to spacers, Euclid and Meritor both have info on the web so you can match up the spacers width and rim clamps. Different spacers take certain depth rim clamp to keep everything secure. I had a truck that was a mix and match special and caused plenty of wobble and bounce. After getting everything matched up properly made lots of difference.

Jim

I believe in the B series trucks, the front brake drums were the same. The hub, or spider bolted to the drum using the same mounting pattern.

Rob

Could be the same Rob. I never looked into it for sure because all I have are spokes. I was just "ass"uming that Dayton and Budd probably wouldn't interchange.

Still can't find the paperwork for the one I bought but the casting has WF1 1168 WEBB 68897 REV. cast into it.

Also, thinking about it again. This drum was too wide for my setup but all other specs were good so it was put into a lathe to make it match what was taken off in depth and profile for the backing plate.

Jim

small cat, 9 spd, a modernized resto,

Looks like you were visiting Dave at Aran Trading to pick up that truck. I wonder what happened to the trailer that was with it?

Jim

"Course I've also found that clean equipment attracts Suffolk and NY DOT."

That sucks!

I would think having nice clean equipment, they would let you pass by.

They should chase down the trucks that aren't washed and look like they are behind in maint.

Jim

Put the Cummins in and paint it purple like the A/C and confuse the heck out of everyone.

Agreed, very interesting find with those specs.

Hmmm....might have to go "shed" shopping more often.

Sometimes new ones show up on ebay. Never checked into pricing to see if it is any sort of deal.

Jim

You got a serial number? I dont think its a 72' cab because of the tan dash and the small air cleaner. The hood is from 72' I can tell because of the small MACK letters on the front.

No serial number. 1972 is painted on the air cleaner and that also what I have in my notes.

When it changed to grey in color, it was recabbed at that point.

Just found my notes and this truck is a 1972 U685.

I know the previous two owners but don't know who owns it now.

It is still in MA but the cab is grey with the leading edge of the hood and fenders in black.

Looks like the picture was taken at the Rutland Truck show when it was being held at Giddings Manufacturing in Pittsford, VT.

Should be 23,000.

On B61X, there was a 29,000 rear but that was for heavy duty lowbed work, etc.

Slide under the truck on the driver's side and there is a flat pad in the case where the trans info will be stamped. Might take a minute to clean it so it can be read.

I try to write info like that in a small notebook and keep it in the glove box if needed in the future.

Jim

Have somebody with you in case the truck flips over!

WHAT?? Buy an Overwidth banner!

You have got to be kidding me!

There goes the profit margin on this haul......

Looks like a good score. The tedder is similiar in concept to Grimm made in Rutland, VT.

Jim

PS. Maybe you could buy the banner at auction.