j hancock

Between the first L cab in 1940 to app. the 1950 L cab, they had a one pc. door window glass.

NO vent window on the early cab.

The vent window L door continued on and was last used in C models in 1965/1966.

Jim

Hi Paul,

I've spent lots of time with the Steele catalog to try and make a match for the L vent windows and haven't had any luck.

I have used Steele products on some other projects and have had good luck. Quality of their parts is very nice.

Jim

Yes, it would be nice to have new! I wonder how much the mold would be to make the pair? Also, how many people would actually buy them?

Mine were pretty dried out and rough but no huge cracks, splits or other nasty stuff. Took same baby oil and just started working it in and also used a toothbrush. After about 10 twenty minute sessions, the rubber started looking better and my hands weren't too rough either!

I had a large container and just let them soak for hours also.

Maybe set up wife/girlfriend/kids/neighborhood pest to do it for you while you are doing other things?

Sort of a pain that the vent window has to go in before really anything else can happen on the door.

Jim

Sorry, no source for vent window L rubber that I know. I checked with Chalmer's several years ago and he had no more.

I had to take the best I had in stock and work them in baby oil to loosen them up. On the truck, they look good but if you get up close you can see some small age cracks in the edge.

Jim

Sometimes the 800 rpm drop feels a little strange. I have an Mack X107A 6 speed, but on the road you drive it like a 5 speed. It has to go down to 40-42 mph before you can downshift to 4th.

If you don't, then it will be above red line after the shift and that will be not a good thing.

If you have been doing your training on an 8LL Fuller you will be in pretty good shape because that trans is very popular and the typical spec for vocational type truck use these days.

Jim

Hey Brocky, Do you think that Brockway is ex-NYDOT? Very truckly looking! Jim

That would have been one hell of a prize!

Only one in the neighborhood.

Hopefully for 75 large, someone has a plan for it and not a run it 'til you ruin deal.

Jim

I would pres. wash to get rid of the grease. Then use black beauty to blast them.

A DA (to me) would take too much time and paper if really loaded with paint. Also, if blasted might reveal a hidden crack that the DA wouldn't.

Jim

If I understand the story correctly, the Gerosa Mack which nows belongs to Marino Crane was a Cummins V-12 when built new. It then got repowered at some point. Maybe 600 HP straight six???

Also, I think that Marino's has a torque converter but has a couple of sticks to give it many gearing choices.

Yup, hope this one stays here!

Jim

The imported LTL is probably the one with the Hall-Scott engine.

I like the looks of the Roo bars on the Superliner!

Jim

I realize you want the numbers off the existing parts but here are some numbers that may help.

Maybe they could help in crossing to get what you need in new parts.

Slack 25QD21DP38

Chamber 19QE221P29

Type 20 maxi 5396-MA15772

Jim

Yup, good looking rig!

Any idea how many V8 steel fenders models were made?

Jim

Whatcha up to?

Sending the B75 to summer camp?

Number 1. Electrical issues are a BITCH!

Number 2. Electrical issues are a BITCH!

Number 3. Intermittent electrical....anyways, you get the point.

Start by checking ALL of the connections between the batteries and chassis/engine. Loose connections, corrosion at ANY connections, chaffing wire, pinched wire, etc.

Proper grounding is ESSENTIAL! Repeat ESSENTIAL!

Continue by looking at the harnesses that go into the cab .

How much added electrical equipment has been added to the interior?

It could be simple like a beginning to be faulty ignition switch or relay or ground.

Best I can say at the moment, Jim

WAIT! Your wife is Jenny McCarthy?

How is she in th.................?

Sorry about that.

I am confused because i thought your wife was Kate Upton?

Boy, now I am really confused.

The movement should be almost nothing in my opinion.

Had one that doing the "foot' test moved the driveshaft about an inch.

Time for a new one. The rubber was just getting tired. The driveshaft on the truck in and out of the bearing were almost 5.5 feet long. I think it was starting a little whipping action.

Jim

My test for the center bearing was to grab the driveshaft and see if I could shake it. Or put my foot on the driveshaft to check for movement.

The ones I have are mounted in rubber. I figured that if I could get movement in the rubber by hand or foot than the torque of the spinning driveshaft could do the same.

It is not a big deal to change. The shafts are a liitle heavy so having a helper or a couple of floor jacks will help.

Chasing wobble, bounce or vibration is a bitch!

KoooL! Interesting find!

I have only seen that combo in pictures.

I would say pretty rare but not sure how much it would change the value. You would be the only one in the neighborhood with one!

Not sure but I wonder if the Road Master was an early name for the Road Ranger. Reading a story in WOT a while back, it was mentioned that the early Fuller's would shift "up" well but almost impossible to go "down". Maybe after fixing the problem the name became Road Ranger?

So, are you buying it or just window shopping?

Have fun, Jim

The second letter relates to gvw. An EE was a 12,000 gvw and the EF was 14,000 gvw and the EG was 16,000.

The 290 cid Continental was used in EF starting after 1945.

I have had pretty good luck with the local NAPA store for most brake parts. They won't be looking anything up on their computer for this application. If you can bring in a sample of what you need they should be able to match it up. In that era, a one inch wheel cylinder was a one inch cylinder. Lots of parts would interchange back in the 40's.

Jim

Problems that come and go SUCK!

Wish I had the answer but will start throwing things out.

Wheelbearing starting to go? Flat spotted tire? Belt separating in tire?

I know all these should be "constant" but I did run into a problem with a wheelbearing that if it was loaded just right would show a problem then it would seem to run good.

Jim

One cause that I have heard and thankfully never seen is pulling the seals out of the blower and the engine will run on crankcase oil.

Don't know if true but sounds plausible.

On a 6-71 thats about 44 qts of oil or 11 gallons of potential run away FUN!!!

Jim

Bronze trunion adjustment for SWS59 (new SS65C-W) bogie is shown as 0.010- 0.015 gap. Approx. one sixth to one half turn back.

Torque for clamping bolt and nut is listed as 120-130.

On SWS68 (new SS50C or SS58C) and SWS571 (new SS441C) bronze trunion gap is 0.010 - 0.020.

All these seem to utilize the D washer.

Can't seem to find torque on carrier bolts? Following values off standard torque chart.

9/16 grade 8 fine is 196-216

9/16 grade 8 course is 192-212

5/8 fine 268-296

5/8 course 244-270

Utilize cross pattern to tighten. I have used a locking compound on them.

Jim

Insulator cap capscrew torgue limit info:

7/16 40-44 lbs. ft

1/2 61-68

1/2 stud 69-76

9/16 99-108

steel caps should be tightened till snug then bring them up to torque using an alternating pattern like doing a wheel.

Forged aluminum caps should be done in a clockwise pattern to final torque.

7/8 X 9 capscrew 380-415

7/8 X 14 nut 345-375

recommended to go in stages 150, then 250 then to final

Maybe this will help. Info from Mack TS 442 dated 1979.

What style trunion do you have? Rubber?

That axle number is not listed in this book which is dated 1984 Mack Fax Volume 4, No. 5.

Probably have to run that one by your local dealer or give Watts a call to see what they might have.

You may be correct but I don't know for sure.

Jim

Thanks for the compliments. There are more pics in Garage section. It is an E9 450, 12 speed with 50k rears. It really is my son's project, and it is has Pa "classic" registration, but we wanted a working class truck, and would not hesitate to take it anywhere.

Your Superliner is beautiful! Walked around it several times.

A quick question about the hood. On one side it said econodyne but not the other. I haven't seen that before on a V8?

Jim