9speed

You didn't mention "with or without sleeper" on that CH/CX. If you bring up Mack service bulletin SB-668-008 from back in 12/04, it gives all the dimensions for the various Mack cabs 02-sb668008.pdfof that era including the CH. Good luck with that!

When you say "push button" do you mean, an auto-drain valve (which never "automatically" does anything) with a pin in the middle of the bottom of it to "manually" drain the condensate water? That would be like a Bendix 281923, a Midland KN24000 or a Velvac 34043. Or do you want the regular manual drain valve with a pull cable, that you can push down on the lever that the cable attaches to, thus draining the tank? That would be something along the lines of a Velvac 32082 or equal.....

The conversion kit is cheaper than the parts to fix the air-assist (OEM) set-up

Thanks rhasler, I had already checked the clutch switch, but nothing on the brake or accelerator. The clutch switch checked good, but with this problem being intermittant/inconsistant....? I wondered, because Mack, unlike everyone else, you can depress the clutch and it will take out the cruise, but it immediately "re-engages" as the clutch pedal returns. When the truck is stationary, this is not so! Opening the clutch switch deactivates the cruise until it is manually reset. I thought that maybe going down the road, if the clutch switch momentarily opened, the driver may not notice, as it came back instantly. If a similar vibration kicked it out while sitting still (unloading) it wouldn't. I'm going to look at brake and accelerator inputs now. Would something like a (false) overheat condition affect this? The same truck has been written up for that before. Thanks for the help guys

What does it sound like turning over...no compression? the timing marks for the valve adjustment are CRITICAL! The lobe profile on these Macks are different than anything else, because of the "bump" for the Jake.

Hey,I was reading a post from a couple days ago about the cruise control. I have a strange problem, and looking for a place to start. I have a fleet of most CH613s, but some newer CXNs and CHUs, all 9-speeds, all w/cruise. These trucks mainly pull pneumatic bulk trailers (hauling flour)and to off-load, they engage the PTO to run the blower, then bump the cruise to bring the RPMs up to bring up the tank/line pressure (under ideal conditions it takes about an hour and a half to unload 51,000 lbs of flour). The problem is one of these trucks ('02 CH613) has started intermittantly kicking the cruise off while unloading, causing the tubes and hoses to clog with flour. Needless to say the driver ain't too happy. He says that the cruise works fine going down the road (set at 63 mph, it will stay there all day). PTO engagement shouldn't affect this should it, as you can set the cruise to bring up RPMs while sitting still in the lot (over-riding the auto-shut-down)so you can run the heat or A/C, without the PTO engaged. I hate to just "throw parts at it" but this has me buffaloed? Anybody else ever ran into this problem? Thanks

I know this is a little late, but maybe others with the same problem....... See Mack service bulletin SB-732-005. While this is directed for "older trucks" than yours, I have had similar problems with '02/'03 CH613s. In a couple of rare instances, I've been able to fix a ground wire connection at the printed circuit harness plug, but most of them required a a new cluster. Like you were told in an earlier reply, it's an easy fix (swapping out the cluster).I didn't bother to swap the white plastic insulator (that's where you would need the forementioned T-8 Torx) that covers the back of the tach and speedo, and you'll see why when you get there. It took a lot longer to clean the dirt off of the gauge bezels before installing them in the new cluster than anything else. I didn't have to reprogram anything. As soon as I turn the key on after the installation, the correct odometer mileage shows up, and everything worked "as advertised". Good luck.......

See service bulletin SB-732-005 (1/13/03), it's available on the internet. But in most cases the cluster itself will have to be replaced. It will come with a tach and speedo, and you'll have to switch all of the other gauges from the old cluster to the new one.......

I need a wiring schematic for the blower motor, resistor, relay and switch/controls for a 2009 CXU (last six is N008092) Pulling the resistor block out of the duct and checking for voltage, only the big wire (they're all white)has power on it and only when then switch is turned to any of the lower speeds. This voltage goes away when the switch is turned to "high speed", the only setting that the fan with run on. The terminals on the resistor and the harness for it are rusted badly...strange! (I've already replaced a blower motor on another '09 because the evaporator drain was plugged and the motor housing filled with water, but this is too high up)It acts like the motor has power to it, but the speed is controlled by varing the ground through the resistor. The truck just ran out of it's(12 month) warranty a while back. I'm going to get the books (I have them up '04) but haven't bought the newer ones. Thanks