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jakebrake86

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by jakebrake86

  1. I gotcha. I'll sure check it out. Thanks for the help!
  2. You're talking about my neck of the woods now. I'm in Helena, about an hour south of West Memphis. I buy my 24.5 recap waste haulers from Kyle at Hart tire service next door to Heartland so I'm up there all the time. You wouldn't be talking about shop on 70 that used to have all kinds of trucks and equipment out front are you? I know there was a steel hood r model dump truck and a u model, but I think they all went to the scrap yard a couple of years ago. I don't recall seeing a truck like you're talking about, though. Hope it's still there.
  3. I believe the third axle on my dump truck is a page and page, but I never knew they made truck suspensions.
  4. Would the set back axle version be and FM model? I've only seen pics.. never one in person.
  5. Yeah, there should be a decal on the inside of the fuse box cover that identifies what is what on the fuse panel. I'm about 95% sure I bought one from Tri State Mack in Memphis a few years ago. If all else fails, find a truck like yours and take a pic of the decal.
  6. Ten four. I believe I'm getting all of the travel out of the throttle lever. I can get 2100 rpms, it just takes forever to get there. I'll try the hand pump trick and see where that gets me. If it doesn't hold, is changing the diaphragm possible? I already went to Mack and got it.
  7. Yes sir. The drum is bolted to the back side of the hub. The spokes and the hub are one and the same. It's not a bad idea to pull them if you haven't already to check and pack your bearings. Plan on replacing the wheel seals when you do, though.
  8. Got another tech question for all you Mack professionals... I've got a '96 RD688S tri axle dump truck with the manual E7 350 and an 8LL. It just doesn't seem to have anywhere near the power it should. You've really got to run the tach up to get anything out of it. I was talking to a mechanic the other day and he told me there's a diaphragm in the back of the pump that could be blown. I believe he called it an ACF??? Anyway, I was looking at it today, and the housing has three flat head screws and what appears to be a rivet. Is this a tamper-proof set up? If so, how do you go about changing it, or am I just barking up the wrong tree all together?
  9. Sure will.. I haven't been under the truck lately but I'll definitely check it out. Thank you sir.
  10. David, it started jumping out a couple of months ago, and upon inspection the bell housing bolts were loose, sure enough. They've since been tightened up, but the problem persists.
  11. On the front, pull the hub cap, then there should be a carter key and a slotted spindle nut. Pull them off, then the inner and outer bearing and the hub/brake drum assembly should slide off. On the back, pull the axle. There should be a large axle nut and a series of lock rings, other than that it's pretty much the same as the front. Be sure and have the brakes backed off, and it doesn't hurt to have an extra set of hands around to help you handle the hubs. They tend to be heavy.
  12. jakebrake86

    DAMN INDICATORS

    The flasher should be in the fuse panel behind the door in the dash on the passenger side. I just had the same problem, on my rd. It turned out to be feedback from the head/marker lights into the turn signal indicators in the turn signals on the fenders. I swapped them out with new LED units, and that cleared it right up.
  13. I have a friend with an 87 R686 with a 2 valve 300 and a 2 stick six speed I swapped in it out of an '82 model. He bought the truck from me a couple of years ago and hasn't had any trouble until recently. The compound stick is jumping out of direct, but it isn't making any unusual noise. He's convinced the transmission has got to go, but I'm leaning towards it being something simple. Could the problem possibly be in the plunger on top that works the compound shifter?
  14. Well, see, what had happened was... All my pics are off of an old ragged (but bulldozer proof) samsung rugby so as soon as I can talk the girlfriend into letting me borrow her camera, I'll get some put up!
  15. It was pretty labor intensive, but it sure made a difference. I spent around $2,000 a couple of years ago, but I changed the caps, springs, u bolts, bushings, and top and bottom pads. Plan on having a torque multiplier on hand. I think the u bolts torque to 1650 ft lbs.
  16. Does your 34k have aluminum spring caps instead of the cast iron ones used on 38's and up? I converted an R model over from a 34 to a 38 once. I went with slightly bigger springs, cast spring caps, and I added the cast iron wedges that fit between the spring and the inside wall of the cap. I also had an old DM at one time with a 44k on rubber bushings. I do believe the axle housings were a little heavier, though.
  17. There's a construction company here in town that's infamous for repowering trucks and equipment with whatever's laying around in the boneyard. They have an EL 240 Cat hoe with a 671 Detroit power unit out of a northwest dragline, a 200 Komatsu with a John Deere motor, but my favorite has to be the mid 80's White-GMC with a 237 Maxidyne. Redneck ingenuity at its best!
  18. Name: 1996 Mack RD688S Date Added: Owner: mackmoney1 mackmoney1
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