rsb502

Hmmm Cat engine (needs repair), Hendrikson suspension. What's Mack about it?

I FEEL YA! I never understood the Mack with a Cat thing just seems wrong to me, of course every Mack I have ever had and ever driven has had a Mack engine and only 3 havent had Mack trans and all have had Mack rears.

I had em on 44, I think they came from 38 Vin they worked just fine, actually they worked great at controlling camelback hop.

There's a red 85 I think superliner triaxle , e9 500 15spd heavy haul daycab a few miles from my house for $12500

I have 44000 camelback suspension on my trucka nd want to add the factory shock mounts, obviously with this new breed of parts guys I need a vin from a truck that has them so I can get the parts for mine. I would appreciate it if anyone who has Mack 44k rear camelback with shocks would let me at their vin to order my parts to add them to my truck, its a little stiff to bobtail to truck shows without em, any bump in the road and away it goes bouncing. I know the upper shock mount is a stud that replaces a trunnion bolt and the lower is a block with a stud or bolt hole(cat remember right now) that welds to the axle near the spring mount. Thanks in advance for any help I can get, Ill take the two or four shock setup either makes it ride soooo much better, ill let you at my vin if my truck has any parts you may be hunting.

I may not be reading that right but do you have a front tire out of round? Even 1/8" is enough to bounce and without balancing and good shocks it could be a pretty nasty bounce, I have Equal balancing powder in all my tires and as long as they are at the right pressure they run smooth but if big tires are under inflated they will bounce like a ball, make sure your tires are within 5 psi of the sidewall rating on the steer and 10 psi on the drive, if they are recaps I would run them 10 psi under the sidewall till its over 90 degrees then I would drop them to 15 psi under the sidewall marking. I hate to say that any out of round tire can cause a bounce especially on dayton wheels, make sure the wheels are straight, jack the wheel up just a little off the ground then set a hammer or block or whatever up next to the tire and spin it to see if it gets closer or farther from it, if so the lugs need to get backed off and re torqued in sequence to straighten the wheel. Make sure your shocks are good they wont control those small bounces if all the fluid has leaked out and they arent expensive so I normally swap em every couple years even if they arent leaking, its worth it for the ride. If your steer tires are not balanced got o a tire shop and get them done or have tire balancer like equal added to the tires it helps A LOT.

I bet there were more E9's there than there are in the US all together, I should have come to "borrow" some parts while nobody was looking.

Efaxsend,wtf? Predictive crap, I meant staxx.

Oh and don't get too comfy efaxsend we have 3 weeks to the next show, I think we have rime to stretch it!

Thanks for posting some pics I'm being lazy tonight, thanks again to staxx for his help getting the truck ready, and to mhe9 for the intercooler pipes they got me back going. I do have more pics ill post of old trucks as soon as I rest for about 24 hours.

I went back and read a few things on E9 upgrade turbos and talked to a few people and I hear the Holset 4c ht60 and ht80 are great upgrade for an E9 with a little more fuel ht60 for med hp ht80 for big power/pulling. The question no one has been able to answer 100% for sure yet is, does it fit in the stock location, stock pedestal,staock intake/exhaust stuff or am I going to have to get some more parts together for this thing. I happen to have an HT60 within grabbing distance if its not going to be too big a pain to swap, any info is good info.

No trips to PA this year, I have to re-gear and bushing before I go too far. I am going to the Chrome and Class show in Smyrna TN Oct 20th and that will probably finish me up for this year, I plan to make it to gearharts next year but who knows what may happen by then. I had two guys offer to buy it today one I had to tell no 5 times, I hope I can get it stretched and cleaned up some more, paint the frame and get some 3.86 or something like it gears in it by next show season.

That damn bumper has been a pain the ass, it took 3 days to get it on for one reason or another and after this show its coming back off to get new brackets made that move it up an inch and support it a little better. Did ya go get a CH yet? I hate to see the Superliner get parked but your right efficient and light is the key for making money.

I agree it looks rounded but its not a +3 I had to take a second and third look too. Look behind the grab handle on the side of my truck in the attatched pic, there is a body line that runs vertically down the +3 cab behind the grab handle it blends in near the bottom of the door and the body line under the window, that is where the std. cab started to round to the back wall they put it there to show off the extra room. I have heard of steel dash +3 cabs in AU too but never seen one I dont know if they are a myth or not, it would be cool though those old dashes are neat kindof make the truck feel like a truck when its all steel. I would love to have that truck and I wont to see it in person when its done Im sure it will be perfect from what I can see there.

Well I have worked on it for 7 weeks almost every day after work and on weekends but I guess I got her as ready as she is gonna be for the Cookeville ATHS show tomorrow. Ill post better pics tomorrow after the show for now heres one in the driveway. Thanks to Staxx for the help he was here when he could have been at home on vacation, Im sure Ill be there helping him with the old R model project soon.

Interesting cab! Never seen one like that. Does everything look factory?

I like the steel dash and the plus 3 cab, so the best of both worlds.

Jim

Not a plus 3 cab its a flat back std. cab I have never seen a steel dash plus 3 cab, I didnt think they made the +3 till after the steel dash was long gone, like 73 maybe?

I love pics of old hard core work trucks, they havent made anything like that in a long time and I havent driven anything like that ever but I want too one day, maybe I can find an old B85 dump somewhere hiding in the weeds and fix it up that would be sweet. thanks for the pics.

the stealth brake was a Jacobs compression brake and an exhaust brake the exhaust brake was the stealth part making the exhaust quieter. I have removed the exhaust brake from a friends truck and changed the wiring to match a standard Jacobs E7 engine brake hi-lo-off,or two heads, one head, off the added strength of the valve springs is actually a good thing for the engine and wont hurt a thing. I have also replaced the factory oil pump with a high volume oil pump from...... PAI I think and the added oil flow made the brake work great it had to almost double the braking effort. I know the settings on the Jake on the stealth trucks was a little wider check the gap and set it to that of a standard E7 Jake and it will work a little better.

Just a teaser, Ill have good pics by the end of the week I still got more to do for it to be "ready" at least for now, I think my truck budget for the year is toast and yes that is a 9" custom cut drop visor for an R model cab and I can get you the info if you want it.

Baby moons - I need to identify stud/hub piloting.

For example Mack accessories online has them but not all is clean there.

Vlad

from your pics you have stud pilot wheels and the center hub bore should be standard for that style alcoa, the hub pilot wheels have a few different hub diameters but they dont have conical seat lug nuts like yours.

Mack accessories catalog p/n for the ABS plastic front hub cover and lug nut set is 5398-15000 other than that its all what you want, if you tell me what you want Ill go get em and ship them to you, you can pay me thru paypal. I can get whatever, baby moon smooth style, pointed, black chrome,the baby moons that cover the hub and lug nuts all in one large cover, I can get whatever kind of lug nut covers you want I use the smooth top hat style I think they have a clean look.

one quick way to check for the wiring issue is to locate the plug end and use a multi meter and check across the contacts if there is continuity between them something is up in the harness. I just thought about that sensor I dont think I have ever messed with one how many wires go to the sensor 1,2or 3 if its one check for a grounded wire using the engine ground on one lead two or three check across the wires, if its melted and grounding on the engine you can check like for one wire on all wires and you will know if one is grounded to the block.

Hmm thats a thinker I was under the impression all aset engines had that sensor, let me do some research in my books here. I would guess if its not the sensor then there is an issue with the wiring harness going to the sensor location, I believe the engine harness has the plug there for the sensor and that if its not there and you are getting a code then the harness has been melted or pinched somehwere between the ECM and the Ambient air temp sensor plug, or there is water or something equally bad for electrical systems in the end of the plug.

I am on my second RW double frame and both had surface rust however I never have spread the rails to get it taken care of inside. I plan to paint the one I have now in the next couple years and will probably take the frame apart and do it right at that point but a big part of keeping the double rust at bay is to just keep it dry, park it under cover or use a tarp over it and you can slow it way down.

I think they made non electronic 550 on up to 750 hp marine versions of the E9, I know the australian 610hp versions were VMAC1 with the Bosch electronic pump but ran well from what I hear.

for any chrome parts center caps lug nut covers, whatever call Mike at Chrome Country here in the U.S. he ships all over the world and itc actually pretty reasonable from what a friend told me he is from Poland and his brother drives a truck there we had Mike send him lots of Chrome parts he cant get there the number is 877-247-6289, web is www.chromecountry.com I dont know what the country code and prefixes are from Moscow sorry, Mike at Chrome Country can get your center caps and lug nut covers too you if you cant get them overseas cheaper.

obviously the year is wrong this is not a 1990, and 13,500, well I dont know but down in the ad it says make offer so apparently they want to get rid of it and if the roll off setup works someone will buy it for sure.http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=3403831&