greg

Any of the 12 speeds I every drove you usually only had to split the top half of gears , unless your a tractor pulling 80,000 to 100,000 then you'll want to split every gear. Splitting is not like a fuller, you preselect your split shifts, like and old 5 and 2 speed rear end. Once you get used to it you'll like it better than a fulller trans. greg

Thanks Ron. Thought of the same idea, was just wondering if it wasn't too expensive I would buy it new. It's a day that I could be working and not searching a junk yard. Thanks for you 2 cents. greg

Anyone know how much an airide cab kit would cost for a rd686s?

Thanks for the info , your help is greatly appreciated!!

Anyone know if you can swap a 300 engine out to a 350 without changing radiator or bellhousing on trans. Might be pulling a flowboy hauling salt this winter , need a little more power. thanks greg

My 300 which has about 180,000 on it has a boost of about 18psi. My advice is I would leave it alone. No sense in burning anything up in a newly rebuilt engine, especially if they won't warranty it if it's been turned up. Just my opinion. Greg

I have a 300 and I run with guys that have 400's and 500's . I may not pass them on hills but I get to the job site maybe a minute after they do , and that being generous with the time guess. I run everyday when they don't because of breakdowns and they are a higher hourly rate than I am, have to pay for all that fuel, sometimes I get a bit frustrated at being passed up hills all the time but at the end of the day when we are side by side at the pump , my bill is much cheaper, that's always a good reminder that bigger isn't always better. greg

I was wondering if anyone had used stengel bros in Pennsylvania for suspension parts? They quoted me 2200.00 for all the suspension parts for my rears: springs, bronze bushing, rubber and neoprene pads, springs all assembled and torqued on the saddles. That also includes shipping. I thought it was a good price.

Truck looks nice but the fact is 18 miles or not it's still 18 years old. Not many people going to pay that much money for a truck that old, even if it's never seen the road.

I believe bendix has longer s-cam rods that you can use to move your canister away from your wheel. Hope this helps. greg

Thanks guys , it turns out I do have a dynatard, now that it is adjusted it work pretty good. Thanks for all the input , great help.

Here we go again! The gov. is changing the emisions allowed for diesels in 2007. They are going to make the oil companies make an ultra low sulfur fuel which they say will be an increase of about 1 dollar per gallon. If your diesel was built after 12-31-06 you have to run a special oil in your engine which will cost they say about 7 to 9 dollars a quart! The new fuel is going to reduce your fuel economy by 10 to 15 percent. Anyone with older engines will have to put fuel additives in because of the ultra low sulfur fuel. Remember what we went through the last time they switched to low sulfur fuels. They are adding some sort of after burner that automatically around every 500 hours or so injects a quart of fuel in and burns off soot or something at a temp of 1500 degrees! Sounds like a fire hazard to me. If anyone is going to buy a new truck , heavy duty or otherwise , better do it before the 1st of the year! Leave it to our government to make us poorer and them and the oil companies richer.

Just goes to show you the only way you can kill a mack is with explosives! lol!

My truck has 44 rears with bronze bushings, their not worn too bad , they only move about an inch on hard turn on asphalt but they are out of line. I measured from center of front axel to the front rearend and it was 1 inch forward on the passenger side, so I measured to the back rearend , same thing. The trunion tube is not bent , but if I measure from crossmember to the trunion stand it's not in square , about half to three quarters of an inch off. Did I mention my truck is a rebuilt? I think they put new frame rails in and didn't put the stand in square. Do they make offset urethane blocks that will put it back in line or do I have to redrill the trunion and square it up?

Thanks Thad, for the info , and your right everyone on here is friendly and knowledgable, thanks everyone!

I used to convert my General from dump to tractor in the winter to haul logs. I cut the rails on the dump bed to fit over fith wheel track. Took about 2 hours to convert it over once I had it set up so it was easy changing from dump to tractor and back.

Anyone have any ideas on where I can get a conversion kit for my 86 r model. I can't stand my air wipers. Anyone ever take an electric motor out of another vehicle and convert it? If so what vehicle did it come out of.

I know this is going to sound like a stupid question to all you veteran mack owners but I'm just a newbie on owning one. I have a 300 e-6 , how do you tell if it's a 2 or 4 valve. Don't pick on me too bad. Lol. Aww go ahead I've got broad shoulders , I can take it. Lol.

I know it's a jake because of the spacer plate that says jacobs on it. How do you adjust the brake?

I have a 300 e-6 mack engine year 1986 and the engine brake is real weak. Was wondering how to make stronger. It also has a low rpm cutout but its not to low 1400 rpm and the jake stops, how do i get rid of this or lower the cutoff rpm to around 900 rpm's.

What are those snorkels you see on air cleaners for, are they for looks or do they actually have a real purpose. I am trying to cut the noise level down inside my R-model and was wondering where I could get some sort of sound/heat deadening material.

How do adjust a clutch on a mack 6 speed with lo hole. I have looked at it but can't figure out how to do it . If anyone can help me it would be greatly apprecitated. thank you .