
Geoff Weeks
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Everything posted by Geoff Weeks
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5.13 vs 6.14
Geoff Weeks replied to mack31's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Considering how popular they were in the Middle East and down under, they sure disappeared quickly. Weren't popular outside of the NYC/NJ area in the US, so not surprised they are hard to find here. -
I haven't heard from Rob in a while either, He keeps fairly busy with fab and maintenance stuff. I sent him some stuff on JLG manlifts and an air compressor he was looking for, but it was a few year ago. Always seamed to have 3 irons in the fire at once, so not surprising not to hear from him for long stretches.
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I 've to Mike's place a few times before he died. Very generous man and very knowledgeable on most any Mack. He had more than one place he stored vehicles. Other end of the state from me, but yes he had a lot stored outside. I think he was a few years younger than I, and I was sad to learn he was sick, and later passed.
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I don't believe there is one correct fact in this article! The Big Horn: Why Dodge's First Semi-Truck Was Doomed To Fail Well may be one, Dodge did make the Big Horn, not its 1st semi though.
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Finally some DM progress
Geoff Weeks replied to mowerman's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
spokewheel.pdf 240 ft/lbs. -
That is why my 1st suggestion was "Rare Parts" they are well versed in that kind of thing. That said, I don't think they are hard, a quick stroke with a file would let you know. Don't want them to fracture, which is more likely the harder you make something.
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Finally some DM progress
Geoff Weeks replied to mowerman's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
A tube type that hasn't been abused and hasn't sat full of water often come apart easy. Rubber lube (oh no that is not a set-up) is your friend. Liquid laundry detergent is a 2nd best, will make quick work of it. -
Not always a "slam dunk" as some shops shy away from "critical automotive" parts like steering and brakes out of liability fears. That said I got internal brake caliper parts made for a Saab I was working on. I would have preferred having them made from "hard chrome" bar stock, but price and what the shop had on hand, were made of stainless. Cost of 12mm hard chrome bar stock alone cost more than the whole job! Calipers in question had the parking brake as part of them, and were decades out of production and NLA from rebuilders like Cardone etc. Best to provide with connecting parts and have them "make to fit" rather then hand drawn pictures. Even supplying the old pins I needed to have made, I had to take them back to cut threads deeper, as it was tighter class fit of the threads. Live and learn. The shop admonished me in the future to bring the mating parts! Most of those ball studs use a common taper and reamers are sold to that taper.
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1st thing to check is to see if the steering arm on the old axle can be used on the new, not likely but worth a look. Next would be to see if there is a way to fit a newer drag link on. Not sure you can cut open a new tie rod end and get the profile ball you are looking for. Rare parts, could likely mfg one to your specs, but $$$$ I had a local machine shop make some parts for one of my vehicles for very reasonable price. Rather late now, but new tubeless tires on those demountable rims would cost a lot less, if money was a concern.
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Only logged in on Oct 1, the day he registered and hasn't been back since! Either its fixed or pushed off a cliff by now!
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I second the tow it home suggestion. Cheap at twice the price. You'll soon if not already, exceed that price in trips and hotel bills. While it is true that you still have to fix the truck, it will be much cheaper and easier to do at home base. I was involved (reluctantly) in a similar rescue of a English double deck bus that had been sitting for decades in a field as a stationary display. My Boss bought it "sight-unseen" and re sold it to radio station in Huntsville AL. He came to me (mechanic for the company) to ask what his son should take with him for the trip. I argued that it should be towed to our shop, gone through before delivering to the end buyer. I was overruled, and the son set off for Tulsa,Ok. The bus ran after a fashion but the clutch went out after one trip around the block. Son flew home. I was dispatched to fly into Tulsa and a clutch was air freighted in from England. I was supposed to install the clutch and deliver the bus to Huntsville. Again I argued against it. I got to Tulsa with a bag of tools and a waiting crate that contained a clutch (turned out to be the wrong clutch cover). I had to disassemble the pressure plate and move it to the old cover and re assemble. The Flywheel had a removeable wear surface that the disk rode on. It was cracked in 1/2 from heat. I finely got them to see the folly of trying to take this bus over the hills to Alabama in its present condition. They asked if I thought it would make the trip to Chicago? At least that trip is more or less flat. I wasn't in favor of trying but at least if it made it part way home it would be in the right direction. I spent the better part of a week fixing minor stuff and getting more or less legal to travel with things like wipers, exhaust and lights. Several local trips on city streets, it did ok, but 10 miles out at speed, it seized a piston. I let it cool off and nursed it back to the bus co garage that had sold it to my boss. Finely the bus was towed to Chicago, where a new flywheel wear surface, new piston and rings in one hole, and other things were taken care of. Long and short it cost way more than 3x what it should have to get the bus in roadable condition to be delivered. I fear you are following in my (reluctant) footsteps, spending more money trying to save money! In my case the rings had seized in the grooves, and while ok at low speed/load when the piston expanded under load, that was "all she wrote", and it was all over! Always a risk when buying something that has been sitting for any time. Your money, your choice but at this point that $1500 sounds damn good way out and the cheapest option as well.
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Really depends on how it was modified. If it was purpose built for lifting the RV, then it would be no problem provided it had enough battery. On the other hand, if it was a repurposed tilt bed or rear dump grain body, the cyl would take too much oil for electric/battery. No telling from the pictures.
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Mack B873sx restoration
Geoff Weeks replied to hicrop10's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
.net say 3150lbs for a dressed Big Cam, , 3250 with turbo/aftercooler. From my experience lifting them, that weight seams about right. Not sure about the transmission, I had Fuller/Eatons. -
Power steering pump rebuild
Geoff Weeks replied to yarnall's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Exhaust tubing also works well to drive the sleeve for front spindles, where the seal position is so far back from the end of the shaft. -
Power steering pump rebuild
Geoff Weeks replied to yarnall's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Metal filled, machinable epoxies work better than silicone under the sleeve. -
Any updates?
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Saw a lot of R models with sleepers in Canada back in the 90's and before. Now I can't remember the carriers names that used to run them.
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Back at it
Geoff Weeks replied to Licensed to kill's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Oh, you will, when your back starts killing you, and all the stuff you thought you could still do but your body says you can't. Couldn't do it when I was working 'cause I didn't have the time, can't do it now because I don't have the body of a 30 year old anymore! Every project I finish, I as "this is the last big project I'm going to tackle" then just one more comes along and the cycle repeats. -
1st hook shop air to the truck, and listen for air leaks. There are so many places air can leak on a modern truck, it is almost a full time job finding and curing the leaks. How long does it take for the air to leak off once you shut down the truck? Next spray the line from the compressor to the air drier and all the way to the wet tank with soapy water, looking for bubbles/foam. Since you replaced the air compressor et all twice I doubt they are the problem, but: Last take the line from the air gov to the compressor off and briefly start the engine and see if air comes out either the port on the compressor or the line from the air gov. Be careful because nothing is going to shut the compressor off if the pressure rises, you just want to make sure, nothing is triggering the unloader.
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I think he did a lot better than I ๐๐
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The man had it least 3 may be 4 full lives, Air force career, Rhodes Scholar, Musician and actor. And Damn it he was great at all of them!
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I saw the video a while back but don't think they are running the low voltages you are talking about the Cummins generator making. They are likely drawing 400 amps at 400 volt DC or could even be 800 VDC. That is a whole different ball game. A lot more power. The 5.9 has been used in yard goats, but even there speed is limited.
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I'll agree with that statement with the cavoite, of longer distance trucking. Local and I mean very local drayage can be done. It is about matching the realistic capabilities to the task, if it is a good match, then electric has a whole lot of advantages, if it is not a good match then it has a whole lot of drawbacks. Both Jo-Jo and I have IHC K-7's that were, back in the 40's trucks that pulled semi trailers. Either air braked or hyd with an air pack. It was what they had so it got used. I'm glad I didn't have to use mine for my trucking career. Wrong tool for the job, but they did do it back in the day. CT electric move the same tonnage of paper rolls that a semi can today, from the rail head to the printer back in the teens and 20's. It was used because it was a good match to the task at hand. As much as I like the "Big Boy" and love to see it (or any steam train) pulling, I am also glad we aren't still moving all our rail freight on coal fired steam trains. School buses and other low miles, lots of stop and starts that return to a base, make sense if the miles and capacity are a good match. Obviously someone who has no idea about the power needed to recharge, unless you have a welder that can produce 480 three phase at over 400 amps! That would be some "portable welder"! Far easier and better to tow them while they regenerate braking to recharge the battery. Do a little reading on "flow batteries" and you might get an idea on what is coming. When the Military talks of electrifying that is what they are looking to do it with. Electric has a much lower heat signature on the battle field, which is why it is attractive. It combines the fast re fueling of a liquid with the low heat signature of an electric, the electrolyte holds the charge and can either be recharged in situ or exchanged much the same way diesel is pumped into a tank. Like anything, matching the tool to the task is key. No matter what Elon or others think, we are not to the point that todays electric can do long-haul trucking, but my head is not so far in the sand that I can't see a day when that is no longer true. I like my old trucks, and will fight anyone who tries to take them from me, I like old steam locomotives and love to see them work, but I also can embrace new technology when it is better suited to the job. Right now, electrics aren't there, but I think they will be. No transmission, no gear shifting, gobs of torque off the line all make the diesel electric locomotive so successful, and would be great in trucking as well.
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