Geoff Weeks

The Zenith I'm working on now is nice in the throttle shaft, the accelerator pump check and discharge nozzle were shot/plugged and that will cause some running issues!

 The Carter BBR next up will require a shaft bushing and may be some build up on the shaft and re machining back to std size.

Back at the time I was wrench turning in a automotive shop, I would take a "junkyard" carb over a "rebuild" from some of the major commercial rebuilders. I've seen some real junk. 

 I had one where I could get a brand new throttle body, but for most I would get one from a yard and overhaul it.

Any extra time spent setting up the overbore on the throttle body will pay dividends, just like any machining operation, sloppy set up ruins a good machine job.

Bushing are no problem internet search show all sizes with reamers included.

 Trick is being careful on the set up so you keep the shaft centered where it was to begin with. 

 Get the alignment wrong and the throttles will not close properly, or the ports will be in the wrong area to function properly.

My BBR is going to need throttle shaft work if I am going to reuse it., might get another Zenith on it until I get around to machining the throttle shaft bore and sleeving it.

Hey Jo-Jo does your K-7 have a Zenith, Carter or Holley? I'm going through mine now and got the IHC "Shop talks" on the Zenith and Carter as they show the breakdown of the carb and sequence better than the shop manual. Also list the factory tools, but finding a set might be hard.

Shop talks are IHC's training manuals that go into more depth, kind of like what you get at a factory school today.

 Anyway, I could try and scan them if you want one.

 I think at least one of my Carter's is going to need a sleeve in the throttle shaft bore.

51 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Some old carbs wear around the throttle plate rod that goes through the base plate. Makes vacuum leaks there's no fixing 

Yeah, those can be fixed but not with just a gasket kit. I'm looking at an old Zenith and may be a Carter that need that fixed.

Two common reasons you see long studs: 1 is for a non metallic spacer to isolate the carb from the cast iron manifold to prevent heat from the engine transfering to the carb, the other is when a flow governor is used between the carb and intake.

Since yours has the Holley Centro-vac gov, heat transfer  is the likely reason. should run a lot better with the non-metered air kept out!

57 minutes ago, tjc transport said:

i tried explaining to verizon wireless that i work in secure facilities where no cameras or computers are allowed, and their answer was sorry we no longer offer plain phones. only stupid phones (as i call them)

i see they now offer a phone only again. guess too many people complained

I don't know when you tried, but when I needed a rugged phone I found a flip phone that was rugged and could be ordered with or without a camera for secure locations. Most at Verizon had never heard of the model, said it didn't exist, but I pushed until I found someone who did know and get what I wanted.

 They want to sell what they stock, not what you want.

picky linky no worky

I'd rather be a seppo that septic anyway!

7 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Yep..  i think Australians call all of us Yankees..

Nope, we're "septic's" in Aussi slang. I guess it depends on how polite they want to be.

Yep, same with Interstate McBee, have to go through a dealer. Kind of a pain, but I understand it. Once you find someone local you can use or a good internet supplier, it is almost like having an account.

 I had a good Internet one that turned bad, so I can't recommend them, Toward the end I was using Vandehaag's for S&S (Newstar) and Interstate McBee. I could call up with the part number and they would order without a deposit or having to go to them.

3 hours ago, other dog said:

I took the carburetor off and cleaned it as best I could, it will run but only with the choke mostly closed, the next thing I'm going to check is the vacuum in the distributor. It acts like it has a vacuum leak but I couldn't find any, and that's the only thing I haven't checked yet.

If you have checked for a vacuum leak (unmetered air entering after the carb). take a good look at the distributor. Any play in the shaft can cause the dwell to go haywire when the advance starts to pull in.

 I'd 1st check the carb and intake for reason why it seams to be lean. But if you find nothing wrong look at the ign side of things.

 I had a 392 in a school bus that was in a shop for a valve job. Wouldn't run for crap and the shop wanted to put a new carb on, I wouldn't authorize it as I knew the carb was fine. They put one on to "show me" and it didn't run any better, had egg on their face and had to re-install the old carb and eat the price of the new one.

 Put a dwell meter on the ign and strapped to the windshield, and as soon as the advance started the dwell dropped to nothing. Long and short was the shaft bushing were shot and it needed a distributor. Also make sure the mechanical advance is free and the weights can move the shaft. Use a mighty vac to test the vacuum advance.

 It would act like fuel, stubble and back-fire with an occasional after-fire. 

 I had to farm out the valve job because the place I was working, caring for their fleet, the bus took up the whole shop and was very difficult to get it in under its own power, would have been impossible to get it out and back in while the heads were being worked on.

 There is an old saying that 90% of carb problems are ign problems.

You really need to ascertain if the diff lock's are on or just the light. Side to side locks will be evident if you try to make a sharp turn, PDL (interaxle) will not be quite as evident.

 None the less I think it is highly unlikely the locks are on and you don't know it. Much more likely a switch or wire is the problem.

You can take the air lines off the actuators and throw the switch one way and then the other, you should get air in one position and not in the other. Truck may need to be in "running down the road" (brakes released) condition for this test, so wheels blocked so it can't move.

In the years I worked on stuff they could be air apply or air to release (reverse air) but I think everything today is air apply. (IHC and some Dana axles could have reverse air) I don't know about Mack axles.

 You will likely need wiring diagrams to track down how the light is lit and which wires to look at.

Running around in the locked position will cause excessive tire wear and long term will damage the diff's so get to the bottom of it.

5 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Only heard of people having issues, but never dealt with it myself. Lucky??  

I doubt you are running the stock gauges on your race car, so you wouldn't be using one, unless for fuel, but that would be a cell no?

 They worked fairly well but were a known weak point. Early King Seeley gauges had that part in the sender itself and those senders are hard to come by now.

 I don't know when Ford and Chry phased out the K-S gauges early 80's?

1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

Yup, didn't think about the voltage regulator that typical cars have on the back of the dash.  It could be dead and cause lack of reading.  I suppose checking for voltage on lead to sending unit would be a good start.  I think it is like 9v?

It is not a steady voltage but pulses on and off.  Of course, since it is in series, there has to be a path to ground. A test light works better than a meter in this case.

3 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Usually grounding the sending unit wire should make the gauge show full.  That is a good test to confirm the gauge even works.  If it works and the new sending unit doesn't, then it is the incorrect resistance (or the tank isn't grounded well enough).  May need it's own small wire coming off the sending unit mounting screws to the frame.

I think the OEM gauge would be the same one used on the lighter R/S series and will be the late King Seeley  type thermal gauge.

 These are like Ford and Chry used in the 60's and 70's, with a "regulator" ahead of the gauges and a resistance type sender. The regulators go bad and the gauges also. This is if you want to use the OEM gauge in the dash, if you are hanging another gauge, then never mind.

My year Goldwing was the last with the kick-start as well as electric.

Confirmed 1113218 as the complete model number of the MT-30 I have, which is correct for an RD inline. Shaft turns by hand, but I didn't lug a battery to it or it to a battery to see if it will motor.

Given how long it has been sitting I would go through it anyway, but I can confirm with a battery if someone is serious about it.

My thoughts are:

If it isn't leaking why worry?

If it is, I would note how far the pulley flange and impeller are pressed on the shaft, then disassemble. with the shaft and bearings out of the housing you can assess the housing, and what went wrong.

New bearings and seal and any repairs needed.

 Really only way forward on something like that.

 Waterpumps are fairly simple devices. The only caveat is to be careful not to damage the impeller, housing or shaft when taking apart. Make a puller to pull the pulley flange off, look at the impeller for puller holes, if there are none, the likely the shaft and impeller can be pressed out the back together and separated on the bench if you even need too. Going together make sure to press the flange back to the same depth while supporting the impeller end, the depth is what puts the preload on the shaft seal.  NO HAMMERING. 

 Did my share on the British Buses when parts were not available, or at least not readily available on this side of the pond. Industrial pump seals are made in most types and sizes and it is a good bet the Mack pump uses one of them.

13 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

G.W.  is is the right one for my '48 KB-7,,BD 269?

No the BLD takes an SAE-1 mount. Early RED (Big IHC six) used the SAE-1 also, then at some point (may be when the big six became the "RD" series), they went with the SAE-2 and a bigger starter.

 The MT-30 looks a lot like a scaled down MT-40. Bolt on and rotatable nose cone and 3 equally spaced bolts but unlike the big truck starter that have 5/8" bolt hole, the MT30's are smaller (7/16"?)

from  left to right: SAE1, SAE2, SAE3

17 minutes ago, other dog said:

My fuel tank strap rubber came late this afternoon, too late for me to start working on anything anyway. I also ordered a new sending unit when I ordered the rubber. I thought one would have came with the tank but it didn't, it came with nothing- no fittings, no plugs, no nuthin'. I didn't want to use the old one because it still had black gunk on it that carburetor cleaner wouldn't take off.

So since I got a new sending unit I figured I'd just get a fuel gauge too. Thought I just had to hook a wire to the sending unit and run it to the gauge, but nothing is ever simple. I got to step 2 on the instructions and said "WTF?"

I have a multimeter that somebody gave me a few years ago, but I don't even know how to use it.

But no worries, I still have a stick in the side box that I can check the gas with. Even I can run the measuring stick.

There are at least 1/2 dozen sending unit profiles that were or are in use. No "one size fits all" Old AC, new AC, King Seeley, VDO, SW, and more that I can't remember right now. Some are easier to come by then others.

That is fine, the offer is open to anyone who can use it. I have no use for it (anymore) and hate to see it go to scrap or just sit in my storage trailer.

 It does seam (Delco MT-30) to be a orphan, and the SAE-2 mount is not being made or at least not found on newer starters, so if you have something with one, used may be your only choice.

 SAE-3 and SAE-1 starters are commonplace and you can buy new.

2 hours ago, other dog said:

Yep, that's what it is. Fuzzy Buzzard sent me a lot of useful info. about it.

 

So it does look like it has the Holley dist.

 Let me know if you want the starter (free), I could try and box it up but last time I looked for a guy it was real expensive to ship, but if someone was passing through...

17 hours ago, other dog said:

Now this is something that I would definitely be interested in. As soon as I can positively ID what kind of distributor is in it I'll try to get one. They probably have one for everything but a 401 IH.

I looked in my books, and there are a few Dist it could have. Also depends if it is driven from the front of the engine or back. (Fire trucks had two, both front and back and dual plug heads) I would guess single could have either depending on what the engine was in. There was also a early "transistorized" ign at one point (looks to be early GM), and to my surprise it did have vacuum advance. 

Also makes a difference if it had a cable tach or Gov and cable tach, or just gov. 

 So tag number is going to be needed

 Early IHC used Delco dist but Prestolite and Holley were also used so to be sure get the tag number.