Geoff Weeks

Just to be clear:

The big cast hub/spoke piece will need to be changed, whether you re use the bearing & races is up to you, the drum will have to un bolted and bolted onto the new hub and a new wheel seal will be needed.

 If you are thinking you can just put a 24.5 rim on the spoke hub you have now, no you can't.

Also, back in the day when spokes ruled, there were differing drums for 5 and 6 spokes, but now they are combined into one drum that is drilled to fit both configurations. I mention this because if you look in older books, you may find two drums listed depending on how many spokes.

Yes,  the "24.5" hub will take the same brake drum. The hub (tech call spoke wheel) has to be the right one for the spindle. It will be called a 22" wheel. Spoke wheels were made in 20" 22" and 24" sizes. (just to confuse you a 20" wheel takes either a 20" tube type or 22.5" tubeless rim, a 22" wheel takes a 22" tube type or 24.5" tubeless rim) 24" wheel take 24" tube type rim.

 Brakes are determined by the axle capacity and most often remain the same regardless of which wheel is used.

Seams like a lot of money for "looks" only, but that is my prejudice.

Many cars today require a ramp truck, just the way things, are regardless of how they are powered Ever work on a car hauler? not much room under them either. Many more electrics than Tesla. Musk and Tesla are gimmicky, while there is some good there in innovation, there are plenty of less gimmicky electrics that are solid performers. 

Ever spent any seat time in an electric? I have. You might surprise yourself if you can get over your prejudice of the power source. I know one guy who spent his life as, as he puts it "a dealer shop whore" working on high end imports (Saab, Jag etc) and racing Saabs. Has a '16 Chevy Bolt and loves it. "Only thing I have had to replace on the car is wiper blades and wiper fluid".

There is one listed as a Lester 4151 on ebay but it is a 4150 and only a two hole mount.

The main stud through the case is where the two winding split off, I often find one field has broke loose from the stud.  It is caused by people trying to get the nut off the cable, and twisting the whole stud. The winding bar stock is soldered to the stud. There is also a wire between the two "hot" brushes that can degrade.

 Stud kits, brushes and even rear covers are available both aftermarket and NOS. 

 The same starter with a different nose cone and/ or drive was used on a lot of tractors and other vehicles. so parts are not really a problem.

I wouldn't be too concerned about drive tooth count. There has to be a ton of drives made for the MT-10 starter.

 10 sounds right, as I think that it was I bought when I needed one for one of my rebuilds.

 With that number or one of the cross-reference numbers on that ad, you could troll Ebay Face book etc, and see if you could find one cheap. May be you'll get lucky and one will pop up before you get back to working on the K.

 Took me 20 years or there abouts, but I think I found a hand crank for my -7's. Most want silly money for a piece of bar stock with a coupla bends and pin. Just took keeping an eye out.

Well if you have in the info, you can use it when you have time. It was too hot to spend all day out in the sun, so when inside with the A/C I grabbed my Delco book and had a look.

 All that being said. I am not 100% it will bolt in and work. There is good reason to believe that the 282-308 would use the same flywheel/ring gear. The question would be if the mount bolt pattern is identical and the pilot circle is the same. It is a good bet they are, but not 100%. Mfg don't like to change stuff they don't have too, at least back then, no so much today. There is also depth to ring gear, which might be different.

 It would be nice to lay them side by side (old 6 volt vs 12 volt mt-10) and see where the drive ends up when extended. ] It would be really nice to be able to do that before buying!

Ok, I've spent some times in my Delco books. The reman for the '59-'68 BD 282 or 308, which the successor to the BLD 269. is 323-637

It crosses to this:

https://www.filterspro.com/WILSON-91-01-3698_p_1813765.html

Which looks possible, but with the top mounted solenoid, wouldn't likely clear the manifold. Might be able to flip the end housing so the solenoid is on the bottom.

Looking at it better, the the end is not rotatable, but I also noticed the solenoid would be mounted 90 deg from the top, facing the fender.

 It would be a gamble, I am not sure it would work. But as close as I have come.

 The  '59-'68 Delco book shows the re-man starter for the BD 282 or 308, the successor to the BLD 269, same basic engine casting. is 323-637 which is obsolete but crosses to this:

I had a thought, or may be delirium. One of my 269's came with an early Delco gear reduction starter for the RED series big six on it. I remembered I had a later 12 volt starter from a RD 406 (the newer version of the RED engine) but alas, they were not the same, The RD used the SAE even spaced three bolt mount. It does have a removable (and indexable) nose cone on it,  so if the right nose could be found, it might just work. The RED starter has the three bolt mount but not SAE pattern.

If you want the RD starter to play around with it is yours for the asking. However, the last time someone thought they wanted it, decided against it when they found out how much shipping would be. It was about 1/2 dozen years ago and at that time it was close to $100 to ship.

Interesting video of a shop making repairs.  Some are unique to electric (battery repair) but some are common (bearings and seals). Some different skills and some in common with IC vehicles.

1 hour ago, Miami Cossack said:

The battery powered vehicles have no backup propulsion like a Hybrid, so if you have batteries overheat or some sensor problems, you have to get towed. The main thing with all of that stuff is that when it breaks, you have to wait for someone that knows what they are doing to get around to fixing it, and finding the parts. This takes a heck of a lot longer than our dinosaur buggies. Heaven help you, it catches on fire.

Yeah, that is true, just like a conventional IC vehicle, if something goes wrong with the propulsion system, you have to get a tow!  Many vehicles it is impossible to do much on the side of the road. Unless you drive something from the 1970's or earlier, most problems are going to be buried and you are going to need space to work and likely a lift. If you want to compare vehicles most people are driving, you'll find most are going to require a tow if they stop moving, regardless of how they are powered.

 Any vehicle that catches fire is going to be a total in very short time. I have fixed ones that had a small electrical fire (internal combustion cars) and I can say, if you don't have it out in about 60 sec, it is a total loss. esp true with modern vehicle no matter how they are powered.

 People get hysterical about car fires but the fire dept has the right priority, prevent it from spreading! The vehicle is going to be a loss anyway.

Also, something rattled loose in the back of my brain, that they use 10W-40 for oil, not ATF or PS fluid.

Found this: http://www.hydrosteer.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Sheppard-Manual-92-Series.pdf

Low pressure is under 1300, High pressure 2000, so I wasn't too far off.

Manual was no help. The section on the Sheppard 39 just says to adjust the  steering relief to 400 PSI below relief on the pump. The section on the pump says 'Relief set by the factory for the truck and axle fitted, no adjustment possible"

 Manual did confirm that the 39 was a "low pressure" box, but without going more into it.

 My guess you'd be ok with a setting of around 1000Psi.

14 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I would also assume that if the motor has to be running when checking the play then the oil pressure in the steering system is also important 

 

As in it must be above 1200 psi or something similar 

Would I be even close in that assumption ?

I guess all I'm saying is there's lots to check before making the plan of attack to fix it 

 

 

Paul

 

 

Paul, I'd have to search through some manuals, but the early Sheppard boxes run a much lower pressure than modern boxes do. They were designed for the old vane type pumps, and will "pop" if hooked to a modern pump with a 2000 psi or something relief. 

 My mind is like a steel sieve, I remember that the pressure is low, but not what it should be. The two digit boxes (29,39) were low and the three digit boxes were high pressure (292, 392 M100 etc).

 I don't know what has been checked, or even if it is a factory install, I am just responding to the info provided.  Lots to look into, can't assume it is as it left the line all those years ago. I think I remember him saying there was play in the pitman shaft.

Permissible play for P/S measured at the wheel with engine running varies from 4 1/2" for a 16" wheel up to 5 3/4" for a 22" wheel. These are not ideal reading but OOS criteria.

 Any way you cut it 7" is a problem.

17 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Steering wheel play could have nothing to with the steering box, a lot of pivot points could be worn adding to the play

Does the hubs stop on the stoppers when on full lock, if so a different steering box isn't gunna help much 

 

Paul

Very true I assumed (always bad) that because he said "steering wheel play" that he checked, and it was play between the input and output shaft of the box.  I've seen my share of oblong holes attaching the box to the frame, whole box is moving. Lots to check if not the  box.

 And as I said, the old 39 box had lots of play when no oil was circulating, it is even in the CVSA book that you have to check play with the engine running, although most DOT cops don't know it. Later boxes use a different valveing system, and on those the play is about the same running or not.

What brand air starter? Startmaster didn't have as good a rep as Ingersoll Rand.  I used ASC out of Tx for my air start parts. That being said, both my starters come out of Roadway trucks (so likely got a lot of use) and I never need to touch the motors. Tank check valves, yes and one relay valve over the decades I had them. I had the lube injector tied to the fuel return on the engine, so everytime the motor was activated they got a shot of diesel in the air.  I liked I-R relay valves better than Sealco, had less problem with them.

 You might be able to fit a 392 box, but I have no info on that. Might contact Straight Line steering out of Calif and see if they have any ideas, been in the business for ever, and may have run across what you have.

If you look close, you can see the number cast in just above the pitman shaft (upside down in the photo) the exact model should be stamped on the box behind the Pitman arm, There are a bunch of bolt holes and hopefully some number/letters stamped there, Or at least they were on my 392 boxes. Kind of academic as parts are NLA. Some 392 parts MAY fit, like pitman shaft bushing, but I can't say for sure. Seal kits are different to my knowledge on the higher pressure boxes 392 etc.

Here are some pic's. It looks similar to the 392 box that was the next generation Shepard box. The early ones run low pressure, I don't remember the max it may be as low as 1200 psi. Often driven with belt drive vane pumps.

If it is a Shepard from the 60's it will be a low pressure system,  Likely a "39" box. A picture would be a big help. These old boxes will have a LOT of play with the engine off, but should have less with the engine running. It has to do with valveing built into the box.

 Now the bad news No parts available for the older boxes.

 I'll see if I can post a picture of a 39 Shepard.

Well, thankyou! Now that I am retired, I have a little more time, and I can put it to better use helping others (I hope anyway).