Geoff Weeks

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Changing parts,,  yes,,, knowing why and how, different story.. if you just put the back case together without setting bearing preload, then you have problems, for example... 

Knowing the why is paramount, how can be picked-up. I was re-rationing  a diff, I had the pinion at a local gear shop, and needed the spigot bearing peened on the shaft, so while it was there I had them replace the other two and set the pre-load (easy to do in a press). They gave it back with 0 preload on new bearings! When I pointed it out they claimed I didn't know what I was talking about, rather argue I brought it home and re-set. I guess theirs last long enough to get out of warranty, so good enough for them. 0 pre-load will outlast too much pre-load, but not nearly as much as correct pre-load.

Knowing why is the key.

While I would agree with the above in general, I have learned from experience on "heavy duty" spark ign engines without vacuum advance, that getting it right on spec does bring advantages. So worth the effort if you can.   If you can't then at least you can get somewhat close.

1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I nothing about this brand, but a quick few seconds on Google 

 

https://affordable-fuel-injection.com/product/intl-harvester-complete-tbi-system/

 

Holley and other companies make a similar thing 

Turns something with a carby and points that you have adjust and fiddle with into like modern car type of motor

 

Paul

 

 

Hamilton Fuel injection is another one. The TBI are more or less GM TBI clones. I don't like TBI as it has most of the vaporization and throttle icing problems of a carb without the advantages of port injection.

 I don't know that one is made to feed that big LV engine either.

Perhaps this will clear it up a bit.

1 hour ago, other dog said:

I was going to Covington with a load of wood chips one time, 1979. I was driving a '74 Transtar with a VT903 in it and halfway up this really steep hill called Buffalo Ridge it just quit. Like it was out of fuel. Stopped dead in the road. I knew I had plenty of fuel, I think it was 4 loads I could run from Dillwyn to Covington before I had to fuel, maybe 3, but anyway I knew I had plenty.

However, even though I knew I had plenty of fuel and there had to be some other problem I looked in the fuel tank anyway and there was no fuel to be seen. Then I went around and checked the tank on the passenger side and fuel was running out of the top of the tank as soon as I unscrewed it. About that time a car pulled up behind me and I told the man in it that I was broke down. He offered me a ride to the nearest phone to call headquarters, and I accepted. This was long before cell phones of course. I told him just let me go put that fuel cap back on and set out my triangles first. 

When I walked back up the hill to the truck I put the cap back on and noticed that the fuel had gone down a lot. So I got in and tried to start it again and it fired right up. I went on to Covington and dumped with no problems then went by the shop so they could fix that vent. I just loosened the cap a little until I got back, but it had sucked the left tank completely empty and the right tank was still completely full.

I had similar problems with the vents freezing shut in the real cold weather. At first I thought it was the cross over line with a slug of water in it (low point in the system) but  later I realized that if I took the cap off it would flow to the draw tank. Seamed to happen when I was running in real cold weather (-20 to -30f)  fuel and air in the tank were warm enough but the moisture in the warm tank would freeze the vent.

Ahh, I see I suspect that front cover that is screwed on is a dust cover keeping water and dirt out, and is a conventional clutch below that.  Kind of like the old chafe shield on the Harrison A-6.

 I think I can see a clutch coil behind the pulley.

 If he has one of those, I would pull the cover so I could see what the clutch is doing.

 I haven't run up against one of those yet.

The clutchless are a worse almost throw-a-way compressor.

 I was pondering how it could push instead of pull, now I don't think it has too.

Thank you for the picture.

 I never thought much of the APADS, make it more complicated than it needed to be.

 I had mine set up with Hi and Lo cutoffs, and the low would lock-off until re-set. It would shut the system if 25% of the refrigerant (or there abouts) had leaked, and there was a secondary low pressure that would prevent clutch pull in below about 45 psi on the high side.

 One pound loss on a 4 lb system and you might not even notice it in the cooling unless very hot.

 It would throw some for a loop, but was like the old thermal limiter fuse GM used to use, it could shut down before all pressure is lost, keeping some oil in the compressor.

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Actually, there is a clutch, it just isn exposed. It is behind the pulley..  i dont care for them.  Im with you G W.

I've never seen what you are saying it has, do you have a picture? How is the pulley retained if the clutch is behind? How is the air gap adjusted? Where is the electo-magnet  and how does it pull? It can't push the internal plate out so must pull something.

 In automotive there are some totally clutchless compressors the have a movable swash plate  and a shear point on the shaft in case it locks up. Supposed to 0 out if it is low on refrigerant, and supposed to shear if the compressor locks.

 Lots has changed since I got out of commercial work, so am open to learning new stuff I haven't (yet) seen.

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Isnt the clutch on that model internal?  If its the Sanden that i have seen before, you wont see the clutch engage. G.W. makes some good points though..  was the expansion valve replaced recently.

I wasn't aware of any trucks that were "clutchless" compressors (variable displacement) that turn the shaft all the time like some cars, but stand to be corrected on that. Those types have a control valve in the compressor that move the swash-plate to 0 instead of a clutch. Big pain in the rear. All others have a clutch on the front that can be observed.

 Sanden's I'm aware of all have clutches, with it turned off the center bolt will not spin with the pulley. 

If it is clutchless than there have been a lot of problems with the control valves in the compressor not moving it to high displacement. You'll see low high pressure and high low pressure.

 The the charge is known to be correct by weight, then we can move on to pressures and temp readings. It is possible the Tx (if used) is stuck in its lowest flow position, but my experience is that is unlikely, not impossible, but not the 1st place I jump to. Does this truck have a bunk unit also? 

9 minutes ago, Concrete cowboy said:

2013 cxu 613 .

Need some help ..a.c. blows good and cold at idle..62 degrees  . As soon as you start driving down the rd ..its starts warming up..82 degrees .i cleaned evaporator install new cabin filter ..checked freon and that was good ..recirculation door works properly..cleaned bugs out from condenser from fan side forward ...cleaned and checked everything that i can think of .checked low side by touch and its cold and dripping water like it should...and its cold going up to metering device ...inside blower motor is doing its job like it should ..any help 

Thank you for your time

1st 62 deg is not good at idle unless it is 125 deg or hotter outside.

 Unless you removed the refrigerant, weighed it and put it back in, you can't have checked the amount in the system. Pressures in the system tell you the temp of the refrigerant, and therefore how well it is moving heat, but not how much is in the system.

 Until the amount in the system is known to be correct by weight, it can be impossible to diagnose further problems.

Poor condenser performance is often a problem on older systems, the condenser is low an out front, and subject to all the debris and chemicals the road can throw at it. 

 1st order is to leak check the system, as it still has enough in it to operate. Go over the whole system with a good sniffer. pay special attention to the compressor shaft seal.

Have someone raise the engine speed to around 1500 or so while you watch the compressor clutch,  may be put a white mark on the face of the clutch and pulley and watch to see they are turning at the same speed (clutch not slipping).

 If you can't find a leak, the clutch is not slipping, then recharge with the measured amount the system calls for, and start looking at the heat loss across the condenser.

gas should enter hot (almost burn you but exit warm, just above ambient. You should be able to run you hand along the tubes from top to bottom and feel a steady drop in tube temp, no cold spot and no sudden change in temp.

 Most system see a condensing temp (pressure) of about 30-40 deg over ambient temp, on the hottest days, the closer the temp of the refrigerant leaving the condenser the better it will cool. My truck would see temps between 15-20 deg above ambient temp on the exit of the condenser, but I over sized the condenser from stock and was running R 134a in an R 12 system, still it would get the evaporator cold enough to trigger the frost switch (32 deg) with outside temp of 95 deg while running down the road.

I suspect your system is low, but without pressure and temp readings I can't tell you if that is even a possibility. Low refrigerant has a tell tail pressure readings, so it can say it is low, but not that it is filled to the correct amount, that can only be done by weight to any accuracy.

I have one Fleetstar that has that type (pintle hook)  below the frame, but this a is K-7 with a GVW between 16500 and 21500, so more or less in the Loadstar GVW range. A lighter truck than most that pull a pup. As you see it has a flat bed on it that covers the rear of the frame. The rear of the bed was stout, the original hitch was bolted to 1/2" plate  tied to the truck frame and braced, there was nothing wrong with original hitch if you are towing something that has the pull bar that high up. It would handle every bit as much as the one I put on, the difference is I can use differing ball mounts for varying heights.

 If the rear frame was exposed, I would have pulled the mount off the Fleetstar, and added the box receiver to it, giving more options on the K-7.

The 269 mill will pull anything you can hook to, just at limited speed! I've had this one across the scales at over 18K and drove it 360 miles that way.

That is why I am holding on to some old truck frames. A lot of steel in them that may come in handy.  In this case to build what I wanted would have been more work then buying pre made, of sorts. It is a universal hitch that can go on the back of anything with frame spacing up to 40". I have enough time in just making sure it is true and drilling and reaming the holes.

 I could have used old Fleetstar C channel frame for the drops, but the frame-rail is more valuable to me whole for ramps, etc.

 In the end, just buying, fitting and welding was less work and money ahead in the long run.

I am going to take the 5th wheel off one of my junk frames and make an adapter to drop on the back of the K's bed, already am working on the compressor mount, have plenty of air tanks and compressors laying around.  If I really wanted to do it right, I could get an air pack to replace the hydovac and then it would be legal to pull semi's with it.

 I only own a storage trailer now so no big deal.

 I was presently surprised at the cost. Calling around for "small bits" of steel the prices were high.  This has the added value that if stopped by a DOT cop, it has the factory weight rating sticker on it.

Thought you might be interested in this, 16,000 lb hitch for the K-7. They make a 20,000 lb version but realistically I don't think I have anything over 5,000lbs I'll be using it on. I had 10,000 on the bed before, however.

 If I am going much over that, I'd want a 5th wheel over the drive and not a rear pull.  The truck had a hitch (holes seen on the rear) but it was too high for everything I tow, and always ran into it when I was working around the back of the truck. There is a 1/2" plate steel there welded into the frame and braced diagonally from further up. Very stout. I left all that, and added in a axle U bolt to it from the receiver, which should add even more strength to the already over built 16,000 factory rating.  

 This set-up is all behind the rear of the truck when the ball mount is removed.

 I got a N.O.S, Kelsey-Hayes electric brake controller rated for both 6 and 12 volts. In the lit for it (circa 1975) it stated that ALL electric brake magnets are "8 volt units" suitable for use on both 6 (7.2 volt) and 12 volt systems. I don't think much has changed in electric brake magnets over the years. The K-7 has all the brakes it need to stop over 20K but if the bed is unloaded, the trailer can push the rear around, that is where trailer brakes make all the difference.  Most states don't require below around 3500 lbs, but I have two single axles I spec'd with brakes anyway.

 I looked into buying metal to make my own, but the whole ball of wax including the ball mount was around $160 and I couldn't come up with the steel for that price.

Pictures are the final fitment prior to tack welding the cross tube, then remove the whole thing and weld in position. Bolts to the frame with 5/8 and 1/2" grade 8 frame bolts.

As has been pointed out, other equipment uses aluminum for tanks. I wonder how much of the "not approved for Gasoline" has to do with emissions and venting requirements for gasoline and roll over requirements for the same?

 My old step tanks from "back in the day" state for diesel or gasoline, but the lower bungs are not to be used for gasoline. (I.E. no cross over or gravity feed).

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

with out a doubt, round tanks will hold the rubber of what ever used way better. tank in question as earlier stated ;;1- on a "show truck" : 2- it's a rectangular  ,in agreement with statement the flats of rec tank flex more leaving gap between strap and tank. most time it fills in with dirt or grit. 

Well, I wouldn't consider either my Marmon  or either of my 9670's beaters, may be not show trucks but something in between.

 I have had even the pre made tank strap web come out on rectangular tanks after a while.

IDK, mine stay put. I don't trim until the straps are tight, and are just the width of the strap.  Purpose made stuff is great, but I am going with what I have to hand.  I've got stuff that has over 15 years on it and hasn't moved. If If had serviceable purpose made stuff, of course I'd use it.  You could (and I have) used a little weatherstrip adhesive in the center of the strap to hold it, but I have also done it dry.

 Thinking about it, the times it worked best was on cylindrical tanks where the force on the strap was even all the way around. Rectangular tanks, the strap is less tight on the flat parts and more on the corners, 

Oh, and one thing I didn't mention but may be should have, when I did my swap, I went from 3.90's to 4.11'/ 5.63's, and my mileage went up. You can be too slow.

Looked in the Red Dot online catalog, and it only lists R models back to 1980? so don't know what would be required to install on a earlier truck.

I would doubt it had it from the factory. Period correct would be a roof mount condenser and either a roof or backwall mount evaporator unit.  I don't know if the R cab kits I have seen will work with all years or only some years and not the other.

 Advantage of the correct dash mount is you should get fresh air into the unit and not just recirculated air.

 If the truck has shutters that may preclude radiator mount for the condenser (might not be enough clearance for the condenser and still have the shutters open) and would need a fan and shutter override on the system. All reasons why roof mounts were so popular back in the day.

The heated mirrors On my IHC had a heater grid that had an adhesive on the back, it was a single use, and I don't think you can peal it off the old and get it to stick to the new. That is if you could get it off in one piece.

 I would see if replacement grids are available. Long time ago they were for my IHC's I doubt they are still sold that way anymore, Likely have to buy the whole mirror.

I believe a few months ago Watts was selling the complete kit. I know Red Dot also makes a kit for the R model.

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

they do/did make a rubber strap specifically for tank hold downs. benefits are  1= rubber has the side ridges which keep it on the metal strap;2- defiantly looks better . 3= should be able to buy a length /roll and cut as needed?

I had plenty of used tubes and/or flap material laying around, so I would put it under the strap an the trim with a utility Knife, but some say I am cheap!😄