Geoff Weeks

Yes, if you look at the drawing or if you have the cover off, you'll see when the main piston comes all the way up, a little "pin" that is adjustable, pushes on a little check ball and dumps the hyd pressure to the return so you don't have full hyd pressure on the steering that is "bottomed' against its stops. It is the same on the bottom cover. Once the box is on the truck and hooked up, you adjust those relief stops to dump pressure right before the box is hard against the end of travel. You can see when it is apart which way it has to go on when going back with it so the pin is in the right position I was always working by myself, so if I could avoid pulling the whole box, I did. I did do a couple box replacements by myself, and paid the price with my body doing so.

before removing the top cover mark its orientation to the main body, it has to go on so the relief adjusters will hit the relief ball when the box is turned to the end of its travel. A coupla punch marks will help make sure it is on the correct way.

un bolt the top ring of bolts, then rotate the input to force the input and top out of the body. the "thread"on the input into the valve body is a multi start thread, so try and observe what position the flat on the spline is in when you put it all the way out, so you can put back the same way. It doesn't effect the workings of the gear, but the steering wheel will be "off" if the flat on the input is in the wrong position when you go back. You need enough room over the box to be able to thread the thing all the way off, but the rest of the gear stays put in the truck. once the top is out on the bench, you drill out the retaining pins and un screw the gland nut to remove the shaft from the top cover and replace the seals. No need to remove the whole box and it doesn't help having it out, as long as you have room to work with it in the truck.

Yeah, it is a 592S, the sub model you don't need to know most of the time, it has to do with indexing the output gear and the pitman shaft. Those repair kits should work. Most times I only need high pressure shaft seal. The big question is if dirt has got into and scored the input shaft. When I've done mine, the only time I went deeper in was when the bushing supporting the pitman shaft was worn enough that I had to pull the guts out and replace the bushing and output seal. Many time I can replace the input shaft seal with the box in the truck and the output shaft connected to the steering.

Here, attached is the manual. Sheppard-Manual-92-Series.pdf

Looks like it: 592 box

Vlad, that seams to be a "Three number" series Sheppard. It might (likely) has the three digit number cast into the housing on the one side you don't have a picture of. The complete number includes a sub-model that will be stamped into the face under the spacer that is held on now by one bolt on the output shaft side. I think I have posted the manual for these, maybe in @mowerman thread. If not I can go looking for it in my files and post again. These boxes tend to leak at the input shaft, and that is a high pressure seal. The grease zerk on the side is there to pump grease in and force dirt out of the outer seal before it can damage the inner seal. It is real common after they see a lot of years use, for the shaft to wear to the point it will not "take" a seal, and then the hard shaft has to be replaced or welded and re machined and then hardened. The output shaft seal is in the low pressure (return side) of the box and doesn't often leak even when the bushing behind it is well worn. I think 592 is the largest in the series, I don't know if that is what you have or not. I don't think it is the earlier two digit series. I think parts are still available but it has been 10 years or more since I got some.

Yeah, but trucks are not allowed on any of the "parkways" even pick-ups used to get tickets for being on there.

I pulled O/D loads into Boston and Philly, and since I grew up around Boston, its streets were known to me. Also pulled legal loads out of Philly. New York is known for mis-marked overpass heights. Many times they are marked 6" lower than they are, but sometimes they are less than marked. Makes for a bad situation. Even pulling O/D with a permit, you can't count on the permit office for not routing you into a low overpass. I have had that many times.

Kinda a long story, but has all the usual bits like pay off and deceit. Many were newer than 1968 model year but had been listed as older to skirt D.O.T regulations that took effect in '68. That was just to get them into the county, then there were pay-offs to run them in Chicago. Most came into the 95th st docks in Chicago, which was a problem as they are surrounded by rail bridges that were lower than the buses. rumor had it the buses cost around 3k and the shipping was about the same. I suspect the price was because they were too expensive to MOT/COF back in the UK. As long as the buses didn't stray far from Chicago and the influence of the politicians "on payroll" they were left alone by CPD. After I left he tried to run to the newly built casinos in the Indiana and that along with changes in the Chicago political seen became his downfall. That and the way he ran the business. Getting them from the 95th st docks to downtown Chicago required running down the rail right of way, into Whiting, IN where there was an "at grade" crossing and then make your way back into Chicago, which was also a problem as the height exceeded 14' and the bridges are only 13'6 for the most part. One time a bus lost its diff and had to be towed, We informed the tow company that they would have to remove the steer tires and use an under-lift to keep the height down. There are tow provision behind the front valance panel. Tow operator lifted with the tires on, cleared the 1st bridge on the expressway, and "hammered down" and hit a bridge hard, folding the upper deck back and blowing out all the glass on the upper deck.

I lived in Chicago for 5 years and worked there longer. Like any city there are safe and un safe areas. If you had been there 10 years earlier, you might have been confuse by all the Bristol Lodekka's and Damiler Fleetlines running around "the Loop". (that I maintained) If you like music and the blues esp, there is no place like it. I am not a city person, and did not like living there, but I walked home many late nights (or early mornings) from listening to friends at a "gig". I also 1st drove semi's in the city. (ok I drove a Mack 5 spd bobtail a few mile when I lived in Chelmsford ,Ma but that doesn't really count). Learn to drive semi in Chicago and the rest is easy.

Sounds like you need a 4.5" Marmon clamp. Have you tried Grand Rock or other exh supplier? Edit Marman is the correct spelling.

No worries, we have the same type papers here, besides I can't read Cyrillic anyway!

It is the rectifier that fries, the rest doesn't care. On the old L/N that use the external regulator, the rectifier would be spared until the ign is turned on and the rectifier is connected to the rest of the electrical system. It is why I urge caution, because if you hook-up wrong, you may not fry it right away and then do so when you hit the switch, giving a false sense that you have it correct. In all alternators that is what fries when hooked to reverse polarity, you can fix by replacing the rectifier but better not to fry it in the 1st place. edit: It might also fry the regulator depending on type.

Not quite right. All alternators will be damaged if connected up backwards. SOME can be reconnected BEFORE the power is connected and no damage will be done. "case neutral" (modern L/N JB series) and older L/N with remote rectifiers), can be used on either polarity. Both will be damaged if accidentally connected up backwards, just like most other solid state devices. Because the O/P of this thread didn't know the polarity of the truck, it is important for anyone in that situation to know that with alternators you must know (and is often a way to determine the polarity) BEFORE connecting batteries. Same for electronics like radios.