John3406
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Everything posted by John3406
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I changed all 4 of the relays. And i put a new ground breaker in a week or so ago and its still doing it.
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There is no relay in the dash. Looked everywhere
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Ok thanks ill check that out. My older RDs and superliner has a relay in the dash but i wasnt aware the newer macks used had it too. Learn something new everyday i guess. Thanks again.
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2002 ch with e7 427. Its cutting out as im driving it. Seems like its random but more prevalent when hitting big bumps. Its like you shut the key off for a second. It dies,the alarm comes on then takes right back off. Cleaned every ground i could find. Pulled every wire i can. Still keeps doing it. Any advice where to check next. Also tried 2 different ecm to rule that out. Thanks.
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Should be a check valve in pump. I think its called an overflow valve. Should be up towards the top and side of pump but i cant remember without looking at the pump
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I have both. Bot have been good but i can tell you the eaton is cheaper to fix
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I just did a e7 350. I think around 9 grand for parts. Thats changing the cam and followers too. I bought from mack mostly because they deliver parts every day right to my shop. Aftermarket parts wouldof been 1500 cheaper
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I have had that people before on big cams an n14s but when that happened i dropped oil pressure. This engine still has good oil pressure but i will definitely pull the coolers and check. Thanks
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Yeah you're right i didn't even think about the injectors getting oil from that line. I think about the only thing it can be is a cam brg turned enough to almost block the hole off. Probably a matter of time before it turns more and completely blocks it
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Any big cam 4 experts here? I have a bc4 stc engine. For about a year now the jake on the front head didnt work. So today i decide to look into it. Got barely enough oil for the rockers and certainly not enough for the jakes. Only thing i can think of is spun cam bearing but cant think it would run a year like that. Only other thing maybe the injectors on number 1 and 2 are leaking to much oil and not enough left to supply the jake. Any ideas?
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You're right. Dealer had all the pieces and will deliver to shop tomorrow
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I already found 2 small leaks. One on the water line going to water filter housing and the jumper tube from head to head was leaking a little fuel. I probably will retorque the heads. Not sure if its really necessary to loosen one at a time tho. Or just run thru them
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That would be normal operation for me😉 run hard but not abused if you know what i mean
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How do you guys recommend break in. On other engines i have done i just run em like normal just dont leave them idle to much for awhile.
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Well i finally got everything all bolted on today. Radiator etc. Fired it up . It sounds really good. I only ran it about 15 to 20 minutes. Wondering if i need to set it a 5 deg or leave it at 7.5. I want to get it out and drive it and haul a couple loads but its below zero temps here.
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The cam to crank gear is keyed. The gear on the cam that drives the injection pump is not keyed. So since i put a new cam in it i had to remove injection pump gear so the cam would slide out. Then without a key on grive gear it could be off a half tooth or full tooth. No way to tell. That is why i had to retime injection pump
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Yes it was definitely off because when i pressed the gear on the cam with no key. I think it was about 20 deg. So then i got it to 7 or 7.5. I couldn't read the valve cover tag so hopefully 7 or 7.5 is good enough. If not ill know when i fire it
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Thats the pin i used. I had one in a p7100 pump sitting on the shelf
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My thinking is the way i did it gets it "close enough to run" . The tool probably gets it more precise. I have no problem buying the tool if i need it
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I agree the timing is critical. I just never used a light like that before. I suppose i can try to find one. Im not sure how the vmac is different but on alot of engines when we start turning up the fuel to them we advanced the timing some too. That probably wouldn't work on a vmac. It almost reminds mo of the old cat 3406 peec . Half mechanical and half electronic. I threw several of those in the trash and made them all mechanical. Then they would run strong
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I just have a 5-101 overhaul book. It says to use the light to time it which i dont have. I didnt take the pump off but i did have to take the gear off to get the cam out. I know deere used the p8500 on some engines and we never used a light to time them. I guess i dont see why the way i timed it wont work but im probably wrong. Wouldn't be the first time😉
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Not that i can see. I dont see how having timing marks on the front would work anyway considering the balancer has no key on the hub. Yeah i was surprised about that too when i had it off. The crank is slotted for key but the balancer hub is smooth. I have a e7 book but it just says to use the timing light tool
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The pump i have is a p8500 pump. Real similar to a p7100. The 8500 is timed to number 1 cyl. What i did was roll it around and put a timing pin out of a p7100 i had laying on the shelf . It slipped right in . Then i loosened up the gear and turned motor to 7.5 and tightened up the gear. Well see if it runs tomorrow. I still need to put turbo and radiator in. One guy toldme set it 6 to 8 deg btdc. Hope he was right
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I already said the back half of pump is electronic. Front half of pump is mechanical. Im assuming thats what you call a vmac. Its a 96 e7-350. I looked on valve cover and cant find the timing. About the only thing you can see is e7-350 and valve setting. One thing i noticed whe setting the valves was the flywheel has marks starting at 45 then goes down to zero. Then no marks till you hit 1/6 valve setting. I think with the slot centered in window im about 15 or 20 degrees btdc right now so i probably need to fine tune the gear. Thanks for the reply
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Any easy way to set the timing on the inj pump. Since i put a new cam in it the gear that drives the inj pump could be off a tooth or half tooth. I rolled the engine over and looked in on side of pump where timing sensor goes in and in one spot its got a cutout. With that cutout visible the marks on flywheel say about 20 degrees. Im assuming thats btdc. It is on cyl number one btdc. Any ideas. I want to make sure its timed right. This is a mechanical motor but back half of pump is electronic. Thanks
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