Vmac3

1 hour ago, fjh said:

And so you answer is no! To different concepts one debatably better than the other! If these guys had got rid of the dollar store  plunger injection system and installed a proper hpcr system!  these would be almost bullet proof engines ! They cheaped out yet again!

Both cup styles are crap. One worse than the other. Their new common rail engines still have cup issues. And lets not forget about their ishifts.

V

Nothing was good about these stealth brakes. Sorry to be negative on this.. These were always disconnected.

V

On 2/11/2022 at 6:41 PM, Joey Mack said:

so true 'V'...  Glad to see you again... missed you... Jojo

I appreciate it.

V

On 2/14/2022 at 6:53 AM, James5 said:

Its a automatic 10 speed ultra shift…basically what happened to have me assuming it might have a issue is I took it to Ohio to the mountains tried to take it up a steep incline I was weighing 79000/8000 and it struggled to make it up kept dropping gears at one time it displayed a flashing F the gear display went blank for a second I started sliding backwards I lost power kept my paddle to the floor and other foot on the brake to prevent rolling completely then i regained power gear indicator stayed in first gear and gave me hell trying to make it to the top of the incline couldn’t much get it pass 3 gear indicator would blink different numbers then lose power a little after I made it up I got emptied and I still struggled a little bit when it came time to go up even the slightest incline. The day before all this happened I noticed it didn’t seem like my truck was giving me as much power as it could it would get to 10 gear but It seemed to Be topping out at 70/75mph (bobtailing) it’s my first truck first automatic and first Eaton fuller ultra shifter so I don’t know if that’s normal or not and want to make sure I didn’t make a bad investment its high in miles 1,300,000 but so far thats the only thing I’ve noticed drove it from NC to Ohio and ran there for a week and back to NC it did the flashing F thing once more but seemed to drive better back then it did going to Ohio 

You will need to connect the Eaton and Mack service software to see what electronic issues you may be having. Check the battery connections at the battery, make sure that they are clean and tight, I think this is a good place to start.

V

On 2/13/2022 at 6:04 PM, Ausmack1 said:

Hello new to the forum I have been watching videos of the injector cup replacement on the volvo d13 mp8 and notice they use a graphite paste on the injector while I think in Australia they use a washer. Do u need to use paste aswell as the washer? Which way is better?

In North America,  the copper injector cups were replaced with steel cups because apparently they were to solve the issues with combustion gases passing the cup. I say apparently because this did not eliminate the issue. The graphite paste was used with the steel cups and the washer with the plastic coating was used with the copper cups. These can not be interchanged because the injectors are physically different. 

V

May want to check for rodents that may have found a place to live in or on the truck someplace. I had an LE with a rats nest inside the center console and that they chewed their way through and made a comfy home for themselves. 

V

On 2/5/2022 at 11:18 AM, usrjcro11 said:

Here is picture of auxiliary wire that goes to toggle switch in cab

 

That is a switch that is normally open or closed. When the water temp reaches a certain value then it opens or closes to supply a ground or removing it These were usually to control fan clutch operation as mentioned before.  Also there is a 135A ground circuit breaker by the wiper motor, make sure it is clean and nor corrosion.

V

Try supplying air pressure directly to the fan air supply and see what happens. Most times the friction material on the clutch wears out. mechohaulic is correct saying that the air solenoid energizes to supply air to engage the fan clutch, this is a fail safe when it loses power or ground. I will also try and dig up a wiring diagram.

V

On 2/2/2022 at 9:12 AM, fjh said:

Is it even plugged in ? Its possible they took the air cleaner off to access an reseal the EUP and didnt plug it back in done that a few times my self!

Any one ever have this issue and anyone know the part number?  I cant find it in Fleet Impact buts it is mounted in the intake tube and they didn't want to give me the part number for some reason.

That there is no surprize the impact program is A POS ! Need to be a rocket scientist at times to operate it! 

Took me 2 flippin days to find this part number.

Here you go Part#20559022 Air Temperature/Humidity Sensor

V

Here are some bulletins that were released for fuel leaking past the lower o-ring and updated transfer pumps and fuel return check valves.

V

sb221028.pdfsb221038.pdf

I had a ring gear slip on a 2000 CL713. I removed both cam and crank sensor and rotated the engine until the missing tooth lined up with the hole on the flywheel housing. Used a mirror to locate the cam and the 2 holes that are drilled in the cam gear. Timing was not set. I am not sure if its even possible on a RD or RB because of the rad being so close. hopefully its a broken wire. There is a clamp that secures the engine RPM sensor wiring above the starter. The wiring may have rubbed through there. Great info here fellas. 

V 

On 1/10/2022 at 8:14 PM, Bluebulldog said:

We’ll I don’t know what has fixed it but started it today at about 10 degrees and it all worked 

I have been monitoring this thread and I didn't want to add anything else as there was a lot of good info here. Just curious, you said that you disconnected the engine ecu plug and checked it. Since you disconnected the engine ecu plug and reinstalled it, did the fault return? 

V

Which FMI are you seeing on the fault? This will tell us what issue you are having (electrical or mechanical). What type of transmission is installed on this unit?

Need a little more information. 

There is a bulk head connector on top of the transmission where the speed sensor wires pass through and sometimes that connector does come partially loose. Make sure that connector is tight. Is the transmission output yoke tight? Is the Tone ring on the transmission yoke tight? Remove the sensor and pry on the tone ring and see if it spins, if it does then the yoke is loose. How was the sensor adjusted? Spin the sensor on until it contacts the tone ring and back it off 3/4 of a turn. 

This fault will not go away until the truck is driven once the correct repair is done.

Let us know what you find or have done.

V

It may also be the clutch actuator that is acting up. I hope you have warranty on this transmission. More failures to come.

V

9 hours ago, 67RModel said:

Wouldn't this be equal to having low coolant? I mean if your trying to diagnose a bad coolant level sensor you need to have voltage or continuity across the plug. Unplugging it is the same as having low coolant level? I think you would want to unplug it and jump the harness plug with a paper clip or other conductive wire. If it starts and runs with the harness plug jumped then you could say the level sensor is malfunctioning. I could be wrong but that is how it works on my non electronic E7 where all the sensors do is give you an alarm and warning light in the cab. 

Sorry about that, I was thinking about the mp powered vehicles where it would log a circuit fault.

Try unplugging the coolant level sensor, and see if the truck stays running. 

V

1 hour ago, theakerstwo said:

Yes thats right for a fuel pump check but for checking pressure thats got a know problem only god knows how many i have seen that would hold that pressure but as soon as you load it and start to consume more fuel per hour a restriction  or sucking air would drop the pressure.I think all manufactors of engine only give you the stactic pressure reading.Not long ago one of the guys that i work with had a power problem on his nack and it had pressure sitting here in the shop but i checked it under load and it would go to nothen.i found a big night crawling bug stuck in the primary fuel filter inlet fitting.

Yes are absolutely correct, but we already have low fuel pressure to begin with. The poster already mentioned that they checked all basics. So I don't see as to why the poster would have to check it under load to reconfirm that there is low fuel pressure. The only other thing is to bypass the complete fuel system and run the fuel system in a bucket straight from the transfer pump. If the pressure doesn't go up then we can confirm that the lift pump is defective.

V

V

1 hour ago, theakerstwo said:

The fuel pressure needs checked under a load.

The specifications that I gave were, no load idle and rated speed. These specs are published by Mack for this model year.

V

Have you replaced the fuel filters?. If you have make sure there is no junk in the fuel tanks. Squeeze the return line from the pump to the tank and see if the pressure goes up. If it does then it may be a fuel return check valve. If not then the fuel pump may be no good.

V

10 minutes ago, rhinoo said:

Ok, thanks. Is the mechanical a good thing or bad? Trying to get teed into fuel system now but gotta go pick up a fitting. I talked to a guy at Rochester diesel earlier and he said that if someone put that s400 on without upgrading the injectors that it would be sick. I told him I was gonna check fuel pressure first and if it was ok I would call him back and order a set of injectors. 

That is a very reliable engine. Don't expect the truck to be a rocket, but it is very good.

V

Oh shoot. I just noticed the stop lever on one of the other pics. 

That engine is an E7 mechanical. Fuel pressure should be 23-39 psi.

My apologies.

V

56 minutes ago, rhinoo said:

Also wanting to check fuel pressure today. Do you know what it should be coming out of lift pump? Thanks

28-49 psi

May be a governor setting. I would hook up the service software and check to see if the gov is set to min/max rather than all speed.

V