Vmac3

The red lamp is the engine shutdown warning indicator. May be because of low coolant, low oil pressure, high coolant temp etc..

Like Joey mentioned, find out what the codes are and we will try and guide you. 

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20 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I guess this is shop talk,??  over a few beers.....  I used the wrong jug of fuel to light a small brush pile, Sunday afternoon, and when I lit it, it exploded and sprayed directly back at my legs....  I feel like an idiot, but it was an accident..   Here's what happened..

God almighty!!!

My thoughts and prayers for a speedy recovery. 

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Let us know what you find and doing to fix this issue. 

No worries

EGR cooler efficiency fault. 

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That blue "thing" looks an awful like a pressure switch for an A/C system. That does not look like a pressure or temp sensor.

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Also lets check the turbo shaft for excess play. These problems that you have sound unrelated. Also, remove the egr outlet pipe at the cooler. Check to see if there is any oil residue on the outlet side. 

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Is there excess blow-by coming out from the blow-by tube?

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11 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

650 is pretty good,,  right ? Dirty milkman.... I dont like 625...   I even bumped a couple E-7's too 700 just to smooth them out,  and oil pressure was a few pound's better...   jojo

You would be correct Joey. Most of these were set to 650rpm from factory.

Did you remove and inspect the engine ecu connectors as FJH mentioned?  

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Turbo air supply air filter plugged? Seized vanes on turbo? Rockershaft plugs blown out? Seized rocker shafts? Charge air cooler leaking? Fuel pressure low? Fault codes? Engine oil level low? Oil pressure gauge not reading right?

List can go on and on. We need more information.  Let's start with year make and model of the truck. What has been done to the truck. What other symptoms are there. Lots of great minds here to help out.

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28 minutes ago, Mackpro said:

The very first one box systems had a few issues but they changed the DEF doser gasket/insulator and that seemed to solve the issue.  Had a few DPF filters crack in the early ones too. Our oldest one box system truck is a 2017 with 400,000 miles and just replaced both NOX sensors this week for fault codes. However now it has codes for pumping injectors/ camshaft lob slip. Which might be the cause of the NOX codes. All one box system trucks are common rail engines 

Makes sense. Injector metering and timing is critical to prevent excessive Nox production. The EGR doesn't flow as much as they used too and they figure they can clean up in the aftertreatment system. If the aftertreatment system is working as it should.

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Nox sensors have been an ongoing issue with the vehicles. I have found that if one has failed the other will surely follow. Just wondering, do the one box systems plug up with dried DEF still like the older 2 piece style?

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Wasn't there an update to the fan shroud and water pump that located it lower in the chassis?

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On 8/21/2022 at 9:18 PM, Quanbigrig said:

A guy that know the trucks did the adjustment ,he been working on it since 06 and did the last adjustment a couple years ago .He said I should get new solenoid but I don’t keep spending money if it’s not going to fix the problem 

Its going to be money and time with my experience. If the checks that Joey suggested don't have an answer then you will need to invest some time and money. Disconnect the power leads to the jake heads and supply a fused switched 12V to each head. Drive the truck and get it hot. Apply your switch and see if they work. If they dont then you may have an oil pressure problem, a hardware problem or both. If they do then it may be an electrical issue.

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7 hours ago, Mackpro said:

I don’t remember if the D12 engine used the A gauge  and the D11/13 and MP7/MP8 the B . Or the other way around. The carrying  case had the instructions inside. If you try hard you can time the camshaft without pulling the upper rear timing cover but it was tight. Put the flywheel on 0 degrees. Put the cam TDC mark between the marks on the cam bearing cap. Then install the cam gear but not the Damper. Then the A/B tool goes on the gear and using the correct rod in either the A or B slot on the tool , the rod will line up with a hole in the gear timing plate on the back of the engine. If the rod doesn’t line up then remove the cam gear and go a tooth right or left till it does . Always use new cam gear bolts . They are the same part number as the injector hold down bolts usually. Common rail engines don’t have a damper on the camshaft and possibly take different bolts . I only did a few common rail cams and those were due to slipped lobes . At least they were hollow and  half the weight of a non-common rail cam. 

Hello everyone. Its been a while, back from vacation. The D12 had the gauge as well. It was positioned to the "A position" on the gauge and the 11-13 and 16 used position B. 

Whenever I do/did a camshaft job I always ensure that the engine is set to TDC. Zero on the flywheel housing and TDC on the camshaft. Make sure you have the correct backlash between the idler and the cam gear, otherwise you will have serious issues. 

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Does this happen when the truck is pulling a load or getting up to speed? I've had suspension leveling valves cause all kinds of grief.

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Intake and exhaust section and I believe its under miscellaneous. 

22 hours ago, Hulio said:

When they come out because you know they are leaking how do you know they are leaking? Air bubbles in the tank is how I've seen it diagnosed and I've seen that be wrong. Bubbles can come from any leak in the fuel system

Any part of the suction side of the fuel system will draw air in. Seen fuel water separators cause this a few times and corroded block off plates where the primary fuel filter would sit. 

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Fuel diluting the engine oil. Good call Joey.

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Maybe the Mods here can put a separate section for him where people can visit to have their problems solved. I don't know, maybe call it "Ask Len. Your One Stop Shop For Problem Solving. Cuz I've Been There, Done That".

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