Vmac3

Sounds like its an intermittent problem.  To answer your question, no. The ECM sees an electrical fault (open circuit). Try leaving it unplugged and see if the shutdown light turns on. Is the malfunction indicator light on? Coolant temp will cause it to shutdown as well. There should be 2 sensors at the rear of the water manifold. The one sensor at the very back of the water manifold is the coolant temp sensor. Unplug it and see if the trucks shuts down.

Hope this helps

V 

About $2:20 a liter of diesel where I live. Cost me $140 dollars to fill up. 

V

Happy belated B-day. Blessings to you and yours.

V

So basically the Mack dealer did not double check the VIN and mileage when the truck came in? That is what I am gathering here.

A lot of original parts prone to failure, turbo, egr cooler exhaust manifold, rotted dpf housing etc..

Point these out and to the seller and explain your concerns. Hope this works out for you.

V

If it's too good to be true, it usually is.  Glad you got the service history. Walk away. 

V

2 minutes ago, Shortdawg67 said:

Is that crusty rustyness a necessity to be replaced immediately fellas?

No. I would however look at that coolant piping along the passenger side frame rail and going into the heat core. That looks really rough.

Looks like this truck sat for a long time. Even the turbo gasket is rotted. 

Its tied into the user ID in PTT. Who knows where this truck had repairs done right? Repairs done while it was covered by warranty will show up at any dealer. 

Sure, wouldn't take anytime for the dealer to check it out. Hopefully they will help out. 

Looking at these pics, the turbo, egr cooler and exhaust manifold don't look like they have been changed. Original paint on the cooler, turbo and the old style exhaust manifold. 

5 minutes ago, Shortdawg67 said:

Mind you. These are now my personal pictures that I’ve posted here about this 09 mack pinnacle CXU613 stating 122k miles along with those Engine clock hours. Fellas, are we still looking at a good buy??

Is it a good buy?

Well, from what we know so far I would say yes. The interior is a good indicator of wear and tear. Looks good so far. I would strongly get a repair history before you pull the trigger.

V

The engine hours is one part of this trucks life. You need to get the complete vehicle history. The service software will show the vehicle data. 1. Engine hours

2. Idle time

3. ECU serial #s

4. True mileage

If this truck was a highway truck with those engine hours and that mileage, then I would be very weary. This would indicate some type of screwery going on. But if it is a yard truck then maybe it can be justified. If you go to your local Mack dealer and ask if they can pull up the warranty history on this unit, then the mileage will be recorded on the work order at the time of service. 

V

Without removing the valve cover, you really won't know for sure. But the dealer should have a record of it. 

V

How many engine hours on this unit?

13 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

Minor step backwards yesterday. I had to drop the transmission off the engine to get at the clutch because it wouldn't release. It can be tough putting stings together you didn't take apart, because you don't know what is supposed to be there. My engine came from one source the flywheel from another, with a used clutch assembly, and a new clutch from Ft Wayne Clutch in Indiana. It all went together, but wouldn't function. After some questions and a call to Ft Wayne, discovered I was missing all the shims that go under the pressure plate to space it properly. Ft Wayne was VERY helpful, especially since I bought the clutch way back in 2005. So, that fix is enroute. Dropped the driveshaft off at Fleetpride for a few things and that should be back Mon or Tue. That should put the driveline in the completed column late next week or early the following. More steps forward than back, which is always good.

Its going to look great when its all complete. I have a question on the locking wire. Was that a standard practice to lock the flywheel bolts back in the day or was it something you decided to do?

I am not being critical, I just want to feed my own curiosity. 

Thanks

V

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

I dont know 'T'..  I can only assume the eecu gets hot... jojo

Joey is correct. Its like unplugging the fan on your PC. 

You may have a short to power. 

V

Those speed sensors are variable reluctance. They induce their own A/C voltages. There is no specific voltage to test that is being generated by the sensor. The 5V signal that you see in the schematic is a sensing voltage to inform the ECU if the circuit is good or not. The only way to see if the signal is good or not is to hook up an oscilloscope and watch the A/C signal that is being generated. 

V 

10 hours ago, Dakker said:

How do the ASET and the E-Tech differ?

From what I'm reading, the ASET was one to avoid. at least between 2004-2006.. Or is my '07 included in that avoid time frame?

How do identify my turbo? I read that those were problematic as well? Looks like even the replacement turbo was an issue?

I am fairly certain this was intended to be a OTR truck and not regional. I think that had something to do with which EGR system they came with. I do have an EGR Cooler below the turbo.

Your engine is an ASET-AC engine. THE ASET-AI was used in the R models, Granites and MR's. Basically used for construction. 

The ETECH and ASET_AC engine blocks and fuel system are the same. Just the emissions stuff is different. Imagine your engine without all the steel piping and egr cooler and a smaller turbo. Then basically you have an ETECH. 

V

15 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

Wasn’t the gear slippage problem mostly on the e-techs? 

No. It reared its ugly head on these ones as well. 

V

Here you go.

Sb213018.pdf

10 hours ago, 63BMack said:

Is there certain years on the e7 that the expansion plugs in the rocker shaft that can fall out an lose oil pressure. Thought I have read something about this.

Yes you would be correct. One absolute thing you would notice is the engine brake will not work and the top end will be very noisy. 

V

Those fuel transfer pumps are prone to failing. The drive gear slips on the shaft its pressed onto. Double check to see if there is any debris in the bottom of the fuel tanks. Also, if you can run an external fuel line right to the transfer pump to bypass the complete fuel system. Prime the fuel lines and see if it starts. If it doesn't then that pump is no good. Once you get the truck running, you may want to replace those fuel lines. I I believe there is a safety campaign that describes the procedure. 

V

10 hours ago, Hans Remmers said:

I pulled the injectors on the 04 epa engine I mentioned in another thread.  It has a complete combustion blowout into the fuel gallery on #6 and some leakage apparent on other cylinders as well.  These are the old cups that did not use sealing washers at the nozzles.  Any recommendations for repair and the tooling I'll absolutely need to complete this?  Is cup swaging absolutely necessary?  Should I replace all 6?  So far all I have for parts is o-ring kits and 1 injector.  V said this vintage wasn't problematic like the latter so I'm looking for suggestions.

I know there are always corners that can be cut but I don't want to be too risky.  This is the only modern Volvo/Mack I have to work on at all so I don't want to get a bunch of tooling I'll only use one time in my life.

I am pretty sure those engines had sealing washers on those injectors. They are probably stuck to the underside of the injector or still in the cup. 

v

See it happen as well. Push rods will give you a problem.