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Vmac3

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Posts posted by Vmac3

  1. Would be nice to see what codes are in this. May have a J1939 issue. I know when J1939 is lost, the truck will not shut of immediately and will take 5 seconds to shut down.  Never had a TPS cause an idle surge when the engine is cold. Usually if the tps is lost, the engine will default to 900rpm. The fuel system should not be checked at idle only, this should have been road tested under load with a manual gauge in the fuel system and then readings taken. That would have given you a more accurate reading. We really don't know if the fuel system is at fault still.

    Check to see if there is a rectangular connector on the driver side on top of the transmission, if it does run the truck and wiggle that connector and see if you notice a change in the engine. If it does then pull that connector apart, clean it with contact cleaner and put a zip tie around it nice and tight. 

    Let us know what you find.

    V

     

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  2. Install a clear plastic fuel line on the return side of the head and see if there is air in the fuel. Ive seen the pickup tube in the fuel tank cause issues with sucking in air as well. Im not saying cups are not the issue but these engines didn't have the failures as the newer ones.

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  3. Mack built a marine engine back in the day and called it a M-E7. This engine produced 650hp at 2300rpm. Its was 728ci with a mechanical fuel system. Never seen it in action, only heard and done some basic research on this bad boy.

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  4. 14 hours ago, Hans Remmers said:

    I have one of these engines in an 07 Ctp713.  EGR only, nothing else.  I've been chasing an issue with it losing prime under a load and its driving me nuts.  Its very unpredictable and sometimes runs perfect.  I've gone through the entire fuel system outside of the engine and replaced the engine harness because of bare injector wiring under the valve cover.  Are injector cups my best next step?  I almost started pulling injectors until I saw the harness.  It fixed an intermittent injector code and seemed ok but then the problem came back.

    How is the suction side of the fuel system? You may want to do some trouble shooting first. They did have issues with the fuel return check valve getting stuck open. Is the check engine light on when this happens? May be a cam or crank sensor. 

    Just sayin.

    V

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  5. From what I remember these trucks came out in 2005ish. They wouldn't be able to produce these in 2007 because of the emissions changes. These were US04 emissions. Mack was first to receive the redesigned engine which was the MP7 which is really a Volvo 11L.

    I remember working on these back in the day. They never really gave any issues, like the ones we have in 2007 to date. Just wiring and sensor issues. Cups never really gave any issues. I actually don't remember doing cups on these engines. I wouldn't mess around with it, in my opinion it s the better of engines in the MP series they have.

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  6. 2 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

    From your experience do you think this actually works or is just another expensive gadget Volvo decided to throw on there for a potential money grab? I know the discharge recirculation solenoid valve is usually a problem/leaker. 

    They had issues with these valves/airlines. They had a bunch or service bulletins to address broken air lines. Back in 2010ish they released a service bulletin to block off the valve if it fails and reprogram the engine ECU. Usually what happens when these things fail is, when a regen is requested the DRV recirculates the boosted air and T1 temps will start to go up and turbo boost pressure will stay low. These failed like everything else that was bolted on these "newer" engines. 

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  7. 50 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

    Only used for regen when Inlet temps were low?

    You would be correct.

    When the system is in active regen (not sure if it activates in extended heat mode), the valve recirculates boosted air which causes less scavenging across the piston. Also is a controlled boost leak which makes EGTs higher. 

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  8. I agree,

    Leave it alone. No knocks or clacking, oil pressure a bit low but nothing to worry about. Shorten the oil change interval with good quality oil and the truck will be fine. If the oil pressure drops below 15 then I would look into it. These engines are really reliable. 

    V

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  9. 1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

    'V'  I recieved a PM on this topic, and thought I should copy + paste what I wrote back, so that others could see how to dissect the doghouse..  Thank you for the respect, Jojo

    You deserve the respect, because you serve the community with humility. I enjoy reading your posts.

    V

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  10. 16 hours ago, fjh said:

    never seen cavitated liners on these either HOW ever! shit happens!

    So point being here suspect and rule out everything because you still may have a cup or cracked head issue !

    Just sayin!

    I had a customer with a D12D with 2 million k wanting an engine overhaul because it was consuming oil. So we overhauled the engine, replacing all the internals with new cylinder head, camshaft and injectors. Truck ran fine until we road tested it. Once under boost the cooling system was being pressurized. I ruled out the head gasket because I have never seen one of these head gaskets fail. Anyway, I used the Fleetgaurd combustion leak detector and confirmed combustion gases in the coolant. I didn't hook up PTT because it ran great at idle and the cooling system was not being forced out of the recovery tank. So, I took an educated guess and pulled out the injectors. Bingo, #5 injector had traces of carbon on it. Removed the cup and cleaned the mating surface. Using a pen light, you were able to see a very fine hairline crack propagating from the injector tip hole. 

    Who knew? So for sure, Unexpected things like this do happen. 

    Took it all apart replaced the head and the truck ran fine afterwards. 

    With the original posters issue that has an egr delete, I'm wondering if the higher cylinder combustion temps and possibly injector timing changes are causing these engines to fail like this?

    Dunno??

    V

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  11. 18 minutes ago, fjh said:

    I still have a concern here that we are over looking the original post combustion in coolant! I would scrutinize these liners for cracks and pin holes as well did you have an oil sample done  ? As Joe mentioned post sum picts of the scuffed liners These Rarely fail head gaskets from what we have seen at our shop . not saying it can't happen ............ Real heavy scuffing may be caused by a pin hole or crack !

    Yes you are correct.

    I have never seen these head gaskets fail on a Volvo. The liners may be cavitated and a pin hole may have developed. 

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  12. 3 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

    I thought it was supposed to be avoided but could be done within a certain limit. If it was done the shims on the cam towers would be needed? Never done it so I ask you for your opinion

    It is possible to correct the gear backlash with this method but the injector protrusion will be an issue. 

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  13. On 2/18/2022 at 2:30 PM, 67RModel said:

    I don't know how these new systems work but I'm curious as to why cylinder compression is measured as a percent (%). A percentage of what? What it was when it was new? What instrument or sensor is determining % compression? Did you mess with the valves during your repair? Maybe you could check the valve lash on cylinders #1 & 6 to make sure they are sealing properly? 

    Sorry I am late to the party. How these compressions tests work is, the engine ecu measures the speed of the crankshaft while the starter motor is engaged. The ecu will see what cylinder is coming on the compression stroke by looking at the camshaft and synchronizing it with the crankshaft. Then the ecu will see which cylinder has the slowest speed during the compression stroke and compare the others to the slowest cylinder. If you do back to back compression tests, often times a weaker cylinder can sometimes be at 100%. This test should be used with a cylinder balance test. 

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  14. 12 hours ago, fjh said:

    Rob it drives a fiber splined cup I don't think there will be an issue welding it totally! the hard surface wouldn't be an issue in my opinion! If you need to run and your doing it your self just getter done! No warranty to worry about here! 😄

    Had these welded before by a professional welder. No issues whatsoever!

    V

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