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Vmac3

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Posts posted by Vmac3

  1. Clean off the dielectric. This doesn't help. Switch the injector out with a known good one and make sure you have everything clean. Let's keep it simple first. 

    The pumps operate on 2 banks,

    1-2-3 (bank one) and 4-5-6 (bank 2).

    If my memory serves me right, I believe the engine ecu supplies a ground to switch the pump on and off. If you short out an injector all the supply voltage will drain to ground on that bank, and it will kill the engine. I might be wrong. 

    V

     

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  2. Those ceramic lifters were a problem when they switched over. They were failing as much as the steel rollers. Not sure what they changed in the 04-07 engines. Maybe a different finish on the cam, or the introduction of the power leash. With my experience we seen a dramtic decrease of cam failures in those model years. Not saying they never happened, just sayin way fewer failures. The egr stuff kept us busy instead.

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  3. I used spring loaded push rods on the exhaust and 417s on the intakes. The hardware in the valve train was updated, and the rockers were plugged off with rivets. This really helped with longevity. It's important to ensure that the spring loaded push rod is adjusted properly. 

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  4. No difference between a 350 and a 400, the engine will bolt right in. There may be differences between the cam timing, turbo and injectors. Software will have to be changed as well. Why not rebuild what you have? Or is it not rebuildable? 

    V

  5. Is the check engine light on? Make sure the injection pump connector is good. I believe there is a ground circuit protection relay beside the wiper motor. Remove the hardware and clean the terminals. There is a module behind the passenger side kick panel. Its black in color right beside a big grey module. If it doesn't start try tapping on the black module. See what happens. Sometimes there is water intrusion and does freak the module out. 

    V

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  6. I also had bad injectors cause this same issue. Also, if there is too much particulate matter in the exhaust this will soot load the egr and aftertreatment system as well. Maybe check the basics since its pretty simple to do (CAC, intake system for leakage and a cylinder contribution test). 

    V

  7. If you do go ahead and do the job make sure the studs and the stud holes are clean. Reseal the studs with teflon and you should be good to go. Dont drive the studs too deep because the lower studs will contact the pushrods. If you are not sure how deep those studs go measure the old ones before you remove them. 

    V

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  8. I appreciate the compliments. 

    These engines are only used to tear down and build up. If they dont follow instructions and I dont catch it, imagine the carnage that would happen if they ran it. This gives them good hands on experience and to give them some idea on what to expect in the real world. The biggest issue that I see is that they do not follow a process. They just what to rip and tear into to it.

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