Licensed to kill

The reason I am asking is that I picked up some parts yesterday from a guy that used to own a Mack dealership through the 70's and 80's (and is restoring a B-61) and told him what I was doing. When I mentioned that I am using an E-6 350 with a twin stick 6 spd, he thought for a bit then said, "that won't work". I said "what do you mean" he said " E-6 350 is an econodyne and the 6spd was made for the Maxidyne. That engines torque curve is not suitable to the 6 Spd trans. You will NOT like that at all. The econodyne needs more gears to be happy". So, I researched that and, sure enough, it appears that he was right. SO, I did some checking and find that the 12 speed has the exact same ratios as the 6 speed in direct but, of course they can be split. I did the math using my rear gear with the available radios in the 12 speed and I would benefit greatly by the added RPM choices at highway speeds. SO, I guess I will have to swap out the 6 speed for a 12 but would have preferred to stay with twin sticks if possible.

On 10/11/2023 at 7:25 AM, Geoff Weeks said:

I never will understand the draw of disk wheels, minimum 10 (8 for Motor wheels, but they are mostly gone from the market) fasteners to get a wheel off 20 on inner stud pilot.  5 or 6 and I can have any rim off a spoke. Less torque on the nuts, so can easily change with hand tools.  Lighter, don't crack, only draw back is inboard drums, but I know of a few shops that pull the wheels and hub together when doing brakes, regardless of inboard or outboard drums, their reason is they don't want a leaky seal to ruin a good brake job  regardless if they changed the seal or not, they would be blamed, so might as well pull, inspect bearings and replace the seal on a brake change.

I think the main reason Daytons have gone the way of the Dodo bird is weight. 

Did mack make a twin stick 12 speed or only air shift?

Can these be found in North America?. Have only found them from Australia. They MUST be available closer...no?. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/163953814919?hash=item262c68ad87:g:fvwAAOSwRqxdzgUW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Eo0orY%2BR%2BlHtlh%2BS2veLAO%2B01rj7aF5YekEwWqhKVRi0Be%2FlAVEiJ6VlejqOfojcIGvoRHDSHrYgyZE3KrhenLo9%2BR3ZJQzlb79HujD%2BBeOcDxwqfqglkFbqQOVmn4nnWnmOCBfMpHkvVfA%2FMZGLqJ5U%2F9S%2B3LON8Pl4l0OQDaBkKcLff1mPG%2BJl%2BMxB6qsVL7opOC2oIX9VsXWNERdCsBTXLygrFOGPdl%2FbI7Wi0omJkzt%2FXQ69ch7fzPp1TG1v2sAxD4cDwti7qhFnPfBgKGwcAL9K3i2Qv%2Bj3Lc6vgP7|tkp%3ABk9SR4y3oZfcYg

Are those parts for a 673 or E-6 or does it matter. I have a near complete scrap 673 sitting in the yard. If the parts you need will fit from that, you can have them.  

12 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

i would pay $500.00,,  but I live to far away... oh well..  I need the parts for the one in my shop..

What parts do you need??. 

Could be a bargain for someone that lives close if there are few or no other bids. Probably worth $300-$400 in scrap these days. 

2 hours ago, eightup said:

With all the sludge and oil I drained from the air reservoir, I plan on replacing all the lines.  I'll get everything drawn up and ordered in one shot which should make it easier

All the air lines should be copper tubing. Rather than replace them all, I would look at blowing brake clean through them to make sure they are clean and carry on. 

2 hours ago, eightup said:

  Also pictured is my helper Danny, she excels at finding the most in the way place to drop her ball. 

 

They certainly know how to make sure you can't ignore them. 

Relatable. I also bought a B-61 to build into a puller for my 5th wheel holiday trailer and initially planned a quick, cheap "make it run and look decent" project that I could easily finish in one winter. Also, having done several cars, this was my first foray into bigger trucks as well. As is typical for me, my "quick, cheap" project has encountered my usual "slippery slope" and has become..........neither. Kinda like Forrest Gump when he started his run, "well, I've gone this far, I may as well keep going" so...I RAN. Spent a full winter on it then, last fall I got a booboo and had to take a winter hiatus but am starting back on it now. Too bad we weren't closer as I am sure I have some parts you could use. If you are interested my build thread can be viewed here https://canadianrodder.com/forum/index.php?threads/project-gunsmoke.23609/ I look forward to following your progress. 

On 9/7/2023 at 7:48 PM, Licensed to kill said:

 In Mack's infinite wisdom, the bolt pattern to bolt the damper to the hub is symmetrical so it can go on in 6 different positions (six bolt pattern).

Update. It would appear that I owe "Mack" an apology for the above quote. The bolt pattern is NOT symmetrical. I assumed it was because when I went to install the pulley and damper, they both went right on first try. As it turns out, there IS only one way that they fit (as it should be IMO). What are the odds that I would put the pulley on, then the damper on and hit the proper orientation first try with both??. Anyways, with this new revelation, I just put the damper that came with the E-6 on but, before hand, I powder coated the pointer silver and filled the timing marks and valve setting marks AND the part number (for no particular reason) with white paint so they are readily seen should I ever need them. 

23 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Adding onto that what is the difference between a long shaft pump an a short shaft pump? Does the radiator sit closer to the engine on the B models? 

Yes, about an inch or so.

23 hours ago, terry said:

Don't know if it is short enough, has to be no longer than the original B model pump. It has the shaft length, maybe compare to the b model one.   terry

I measured the shaft length from the one I have off the B-61 but they do not state where their measurement is taken from. If I stand the shaft I have on the bench on the impeller, it has a total length of under 6.5" which seems right but that is the shaft AND the impeller and I don't know if that is how they are typically measured or not. I suspect it is correct as the shaft goes all the way through the impeller so it IS total shaft length. A bigger concern is this "Technical Specs: Metric Housing, Stamped Impeller, Base Pump with 6 19/64" shaft length, No Pulley". What does "metric housing" mean??. 

Thinking of just getting a new water pump rather than putting the old one back together. Don't want to have to screw around with it once the truck is finished and difficult to work on. So, having said that, is this the right water pump for my 2V, E-6 going in a b-61?. https://www.agkits.com/mack-e6-e7-engine-water-pump-316gc284.aspx

59 minutes ago, fjh said:

 I also can identify with it being in a B model  not the nicest thing to work on!

That is why I am doing everything I can now while the cab/clip are not on the chassis. Once this thing gets put together the only reason I want to open the hood is to show off my fancy-schmancy motor and to check/change the oil. Which brings me to another situation. The water pump that I pulled off of the 673 LOOKED rough but spun freely. Not wanting to experience a leak or bearing failure after the truck is assembled I decided to pull the pump apart and do bearings and seal. The bearings and seal look perfect and I am not sure where to find replacements so looks like I will just be cleaning and repacking the bearings and reassembling with the parts that it had. 

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

since heart surgery in '15  the two fingers on left hand haven't worked . worse then pins and needles feel. and I'm left-handed ; it's a bit--h when I drop something and can't bend down enough to pick it up. saw a penny on the ground last week = I kicked it across the parking lot till I found something to lean against to pick it up. 

That sucks. At least for me, I am right handed. I honestly don't know WHAT I would do if this was my right hand that is F@$ked up. Bad enough being my "off" hand. 

46 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

was wondering why couldn't use balancer.

To recap from before I slashed my wrist, I put an E-6 in my B-61 and found that the cab would not go far enough forward to install the cab mount bolts without hitting the engine. I enquired here and was told that I needed to use the balancer and water pump off the 673 as the shafts are shorter (DOH!). So, now that I am somewhat "healed" I am back to the B-61 project and job one has been to change out those items and move the engine/trans forward. The balancer from the 673 has no timing mark but the balancer from the E-6 does, In fact, I used them to set the valves when I got the engine. Actually, all I needed was the HUB from the 673 as it is shorter. Soooooo, I thought I would put the damper from the E-6 on the hub from the 673 so I would retain the timing marks for future reference. However, to do so, I would need to find TDC so I could orient the damper properly. In Mack's infinite wisdom, the bolt pattern to bolt the damper to the hub is symmetrical so it can go on in 6 different positions (six bolt pattern). If I had thought of this prior to Putting the damper on the crank, I could have used the location of the keyway to orient it. Don't really want to pull the damper back off the crank (PITA). On thinking about the 673 damper (Since these engines are internally balanced IMO the proper term for what I am talking about is a "damper, not a "balancer") not having any timing marks, It occurred to me that this may be due to when nestled in a B model chassis, any timing marks probably can't be seen anyways so any timing done would not use the damper anyways. Don't REALLY want to reopen valve covers and pull an injector for something that I no longer think is likely to be helpful ANYWAYS, I guess I will just use the blank damper from the 673. If my thinking is wrong on ANY points here, somebody PLEASE set me straight. BTW, since the engine is internally balanced AND the damper CAN be put on the hub in any of six different positions, I am assuming that it matters not what position on the hub the damper is bolted. 

Was hoping there was something like on the CAT's So I didn't need to pull the covers. If I had thought of this sooner (I almost NEVER think of these things when it is easy to do) I would have done this before putting the balancer from the 673 on but I guess I secretly like to do things the hard way. The hand is "healed" but t2he nerve is still on the fritz. Little finger feels like a log, always in the way and doesn't do anything useful. At least when I injure is it doesn't hurt but it is a PITA. I have a habit of dropping things, tools and parts and such but now it is worse....MUCH worse. A LOT of colourful language in the ship these days, more than usual. 

On a CAT, there is a locater pin in the flywheel to locate TDC. Is there anything like that on a 2V E-6, 350?. Need to find TDC WITHOUT referring to the balancer and am not keen on pulling the valve covers to go by the valves positions. So, without useing the balancer for reference, how do I find TDC on this engine??. 

Good job. A friend has a 1968 Jeep Gladiator in that colour. I call it the "canola blossom special". Be tough to paint that colour around here outside, would attract aphids like a bugger. 

Joey, I am curious, my '44 has a factory electric fuel pump mounted on the firewall. Does yours?. I assumed that it was a "firetruck" thing as you need them to start right way but maybe it was just standard on the IH's. 

9 hours ago, Vladislav said:

There is common practice of sleeving brake cylinders and making them to closest size of avalible seals. A friend of mine used to make brass liners. My guess was they wouldn't work really long because of wear but he stated that's fine for hobby use. And no chances they rot.

Probably you knew that and too possibly you know it better than me 

I was hoping that I could find cups a bit bigger so I could bore out the cylinders but was prepared to sleeve them otherwise. Either way shouldn't be too difficult. Might still do that if the replacement cylinders are pricey. We will see. I have a LOT of projects ahead of the KB.

15 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

.  I wonder if I should run a choke cable to the grill so I can choke it up front.. what do you think?? 

My 1931 Model A delivery had a length of haywire running from the choke to/through the grill so that the choke could be operated from the front while cranking. 

11 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Mistakes will happen...   It just happened to be a HUGE one..  When I watched the video, I tried to put his shoes on...  I started to get nervous.. I cant imagine being in that position..  just my 2 cent's..  jojo

We all make them. Sometimes we get lucky and the consequences are minimal and other time the consequences are massive. However, almost all of us know what we SHOULD have done in hindsight which is no different than knowing what someone ELSE SHOULD have done after seeing the results of their decision. I do not know what the driver saw from the seat of his truck of what he was thinking at the time. Looking at the video, I did NOT think that crossing looked problematic from the side let alone from the front and the drivers attention was likely on "looking both ways" rather than the crossing itself. If the "hump" in the crossing was more pronounced, it would have caught his attention maybe, particularly if he has a LOT of experience pulling lowboys. that crossing looked reasonable level to me. I have seen a LOT worse.