Licensed to kill

A few things to consider if you are going to do an engine swap. First, as I recently found out, there is a significant enough difference between a "maxidyne" and "Econodyne" engine (their torque curve specifically) that they require different tranny's to perform properly. 5 or 6spd for the Max and 12 Spd or more for the Econo so unless you plan to change the trans also OR don't care about performance, make sure both the engine you are taking out and the one you are putting in are of the same series. Second, again, this is related to getting the best performance, you can not take an engine designed for an "up front" air to air and just put a tip turbine on it without changing injectors and likely the turbo. The "tip turbine" is less efficient and therefore will provide less air to the engine than what the injectors and turbo were designed for. It will run OK but you will likely be "rolling coal" as it will be overfueling to some extent and MAY run into EGT issues when pulling hard. 

I like that gauge Larry. However, like everything else these days, can't find one anywhere on the net. I swear, 15-20 years ago whatever you wanted just type it in and up it would come. Now, search engines are so screwed it doesn't matter how vague or specific a description I type in I get page after page of shit that isn't even related to what I am looking for. "No problem" says my internal "common sense" "I'll just go to the company web sight". I can not remember that last time I went to a company/business web sight that was the least bit user friendly or useful. I can't believe that companies actually PAY people to create these worthless webpages. Now, to be fair, after wasting an hour searching for something and coming up empty, I usually tell my wife what I am looking for and within 5-10 minutes she finds it. I ask what she typed in and it is ALWAYS the exact same thing I typed in word for word but the sights/pages that come up for her don't come up for me. Probably why I am so happy to drive my model A fords and will be happy to drive my B-61 Mack and any vehicle with an ECM is to me like sunlight is to Dracula. THESE things I understand. 

I clamped a piece of wood in the vice on my drill/mill table then clamped the small scrap sheet to the wood with vice grips. Will do the same with the gauge panel. I will take a couple pics when I do the panel and post them. 

Well, the gauges are 2 1/16" so I bought a 2-1/16" hole saw last time I went to town. Tried it on a piece of scrap and a gauge "fits" but is quite snug, have to use a fair bit of force to get it on there all the way (then had a bear of a time getting it back off) and the saw itself was quite sloppy in the original gauge holes. So, next week when I go to town (to pick up the drive shaft) I will get a 2-1/8" hole saw and that should work perfect. I would much prefer an annular bit but one of those in  2-1/8" would be $$$$$$$ just to make a couple holes so........that's a hard "NOPE". The brand new Milwaukie 2-1/16 saw made a perfect hole when used in the mill and everything clamped down well and run slow so I now feel confident that the 2-1/8" hole saw will be the ticket, just need to get to town to get one. 

P.S. I SHOULD be able to finish the welding on the cab today, just have to weld in the driver side front 1/4 and change out the rockers so then I can wheel the welder back to the bench and weld up the unwanted holes in the cluster panel. I HAVE to get the cab done as my son called and he needs the lift to do the brakes on his wife's buggy and my oldest daughter needs her winter tires put on and I am too old (and lazy) to do that sort of thing on the floor any more. 

As I am doing the body work on the cab for my B-61 project I am always pondering other aspects of it. I have been giving thought to what I want for gauges I the limited space available (8 not counting speedo and tach) and, while I would LIKE to have a boost gauge and a pyrometer, due to lack of Realestate, I may have to eliminate one (I already have to eliminate the diff temp). For what I am using this truck for, neither boost nor pyro are REALLY necessary but I would like them anyways. So, if I have to choose, I'm thinking that the pyro is more practical as it monitors something that actually matters, even though the chance that I will encounter dangerously high exhaust temps pulling a holiday trailer is....lets just say "unlikely". Boost, OTOH, while not really critical, to my way of thinking, it serves like a vacuum gauge on a gas engine (only opposite) in that it gives an indication of relative fuel economy. So, the first 5 places are fixed (dual needle air pressure, oil, temp, volts/ampres and fuel), I really want to add a third air pressure and another fuel which leaves one vacant spot for the pyro, boost or diff temp. NONE of these are really important (which is why they are at the bottom on the list), diff temp only because the diff has the sender in it already and pyro and boost because...well its a diesel so........they would be nice. I would like to hear thoughts from the forum on what should get the final spot and why. There IS the option of placing gauges outside of the gauge panel, either in the dash somewhere (in place of the ash tray perhaps) or on a panel mounted under the dash but I never cared for the looks of an "add on" panel. I suppose I could put the boost and pyro in pods on top of the dash but I would prefer to stay with a cleaner, more conventional look. So, what do y'all think???. What other options have I missed or what gauges should get the boot?. 

4 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

didn't think today's world knew what plastigauge was . at least that's a positive . 

I was shocked to find that plastigauge was rather difficult to find when I rebuilt the flathead in my '35 ford a few years ago. Most auto supply places had no idea what I was talking about. 

42 minutes ago, Mean Green said:

How did the extra gauges turn out would like to see some pics I just cut a hole in my dash and got rid of the lighter and added a pryo gauge and yes one small project is never small lol

Haven't done it yet. Might be awhile as I don't have the correct hole saw yet and have other things on the go as well. I did make the plug for the lighter hole, just have to weld it in. 

Lots of them on Ebay. They were not proprietary, just Stewart Warner gauges, the older ones had a slightly different font than the newer ones (older ones had fatter numbers and not as "white" but that could have been due to age). Here is an example and you get a bulldog speedo in the deal. Looks like an early R model dash. https://www.ebay.com/itm/335100798247?hash=item4e05906527:g:jaMAAOSwC1JlQ8wV&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0IyRG5vG6w3H6B08TZr16%2BCXwtYzRcI%2BFjHBv6JtSWJIeXDD6Njm%2FumI6ivW8T3abSABd5WNF96PU6BZAOujc2klCSMLneyn2uraWOOX6kxd8bqe9UAARDI6A03NAQIram374H7426geT18VmRTPxa6SmwZ8XS9EleOdtkIO%2FsWWwe1O0cyP%2B%2FhtCGDCAtU0WkkWOWhdzWJch1vF%2BIBP5tDmQnlK4h6sR2E7dmoCzRxWzszoRXN7yLdrpHdgOBWVJvNMv0T282IvUe1GYdAv7Y0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR97Ior34Yg

The bezels might clean up but f they are pitted can be covered with something like this. https://www.amazon.ca/GG-Grand-General-68164-Freightliner/dp/B0878SQXRB/ref=sr_1_14?hvadid=600273239941&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001287&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13379524112870365913&hvtargid=kwd-700145194245&hydadcr=15053_13565510&keywords=peterbilt%2Bgauge%2Bcovers&qid=1699798091&sr=8-14&th=1

On 11/9/2023 at 3:05 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

 

Ticking to me after driving over rough ground would be something on the outside of the motor 

So fan, water pump, alternator, clutch housing

I would be thinking a about what could shift that makes a ticking noise, there really isn't much

 

Paul

^^^^^This. The first thing I would check is the exhaust manifold bolts. One may have broken off causing a leak. There is always a chance that the tick starting when you drove over rough ground is just a coincidence but I don't believe in coincidence so I would be focused on things that bouncing and/or  twisting of the chassis may cause to move/change/break. 

44 minutes ago, h67st said:

I've never seen brakes hooked up without QR valves, I don't know what negatives there would be. I achieved anti-compounding by using a QR-1C valve (not very expensive, very easy to plumb).

It just seemed to me that the relay acts much like a QR and where the relay would be mounted on the cross member, to go from that to a QR, then to the chambers, the length of hose that needs to be evacuated would be the same if not a few inches longer than going directly from the relay to the chambers. 

15 hours ago, JoeH said:

Did the truck have wedge brakes originally?

No

43 minutes ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

LTK, are you going to upgrade the truck to modern spring brakes?  If so, you may not need to worry about some of the "old" parts.  You can set it up like a more modern piece, and use current valves.

I tool the DD3 chambers and inversion valve off my '70, and used piggyback chambers with spring-loaded parking and emergency brakes.  What I ended up with was far simpler than what I started out with.

Seen lots of B-models with a parking brake valve added to the dash.

Yes I am. MOST of the brake system will be new, I. fact, so far, the only parts that I intend to re-use is the tractor protection valve, governor, manifold, filter (for the shutter stat) and the valves on the dash. I looked in the governor and it looks nice and clean so I will use it but if it causes issues I will just change it out. They are not expensive and this one is mounted on the firewall and easy to access. I am thinking that, since the relays will be mounted on the cross member and will only require maybe 15" - 20" of hose from the chambers that a QR will not be required

I wonder if it could be something like this??. The truck had no spring brakes, just pancake pots. http://www.sealcocvp.com/prod/catalog/110376/index.htm

It came from the truck in my avatar, '59 B-61T. Don't recall where it was mounted for sure but on the frame somewhere midship or near the back IIRC. It was over 2 years ago that I stripped that truck and, of course I did not take enough pictures or label anything. 

Update, I just went out to the shop and checked, there is no part number on it anywhere, just says "sealco" in an oval across from the "service". I took it and checked where it could have been mounted and asm certain that it was on the back of the cross member that is just in front of the 5th wheel plate, on the drivers side. There are holes in that location that match the bolt size and mount on the valve AND that is where I recall it coming from. 

Don't know what an "inversion valve" is, what do they do?. It is not a tractor protection valve, I have that off the same truck. 

Trying to figure out what this valve is for. Came off my B-61. Doesn't look like a relay or a QR, ports are too small and not enough of them and I can't think of what else it could do. Anyone recognize this?. Marked "service" on top and "in" on the bottom port that has the cap on its.